I got it in my head that I need some scrolling tongs since I bought Mark Aspery's books.

Tried to follow the instructions as best I could. Started off with 1 1/8" x 3/8" mild, which was way too big but it's all I had spare. The tongs are chunky to say the least and the boss is way too fat but I'm quite happy with them.





I had started to draw the reigns out but this was a huge waste of time, I struggled to get a decent long heat and after far too long I decided to give up and mig welded on some 10mm round bar. Cleaned up the welds and they look ok.

Let me know what you think.

All the best
Andy

I think they're great.  I don't see the boss as being overly large or out of proportion.  

 

I've seen a lot of folks talk about drawing out the reins from the parent stock, but I just can't bring myself to do it.  It's such a tremendous waste of fuel and time when you could just weld on some round stock.  Me, I'll weld on the reins every time.

The boss looks great. Most people round them off, but I really like the squarish lines on yours a lot. :)

I have made a couple of pair and the one thing I found lacking was not enough mass, they would flex. Becuase of the twisting I think having them chunky is a good thing, they should be sturdy.

There's nothing wrong with those tongs Andy. Nicely done!

... On a side note, can we please not revisit the drawn-out vs welded reins argument every time there is a post about tongs? I think Brian's multi-page thread was quite enough of that debate.

There's nothing wrong with those tongs Andy. Nicely done!
... On a side note, can we please not revisit the drawn-out vs welded reins argument every time there is a post about tongs? I think Brian's multi-page thread was quite enough of that debate.

Thanks guys that means a lot.

Aye sorry Neil, probably not my most tactful post ever. I did enjoy the speed and ease of mig welding the reigns on but I'm hoping to crack fire welding soon enough. If the stock was a bit smaller then drawing them out might have been easier...

I'm due back offshore tomorrow but I'm looking forward to using these tongs when I get back.

All the best
Andy

That post was a debating jewel. Almost like Rob Ford's political career! (Badum shhhhh)

Nuttin wrong with those, look pretty efficient to me. I bought a pair and then stumbled across a tutorial on making scrollers from tin snips. Those worked out great. You will get a ton of use from yours. They work out really well for bending.

Dave

Those are fine looking scrolling tongs Andy. A heavy boss is a good thing on tongs you're going to be twisting on. I made a pair that are much smaller and finer I like for finial scrolls and the like. The one suggestion I have in general is make the reins as short as the heat from the stock allows. Long reins like forging tongs lengthens the moment of leverage against you. Too short on the other hand puts your hand too close t hot steel for comfort.

 

All in all a nice job, well done.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

That post was a debating jewel. Almost like Rob Ford's political career! (Badum shhhhh)

 

A debate that gets a little too heated and personal is a Jewel to you eh? The more of your posts I read the more trollish you sound.

 

For consideration, I present your current attempt to resurrect a too heated discussion and bring politics into it. For what, a little added vitriol?

 

Frosty The Lucky.

Nuttin wrong with those, look pretty efficient to me. I bought a pair and then stumbled across a tutorial on making scrollers from tin snips. Those worked out great. You will get a ton of use from yours. They work out really well for bending.

Dave

 

I think the shorter handles is a good tip, the next pair I make will be short and stocky. Maybe 10"  OAL.

Frosty, yes, I found it comical how that thread worked out. I learned a lot about the pros and cons of welding reins.

those will work just fine

Those are fine looking scrolling tongs Andy. A heavy boss is a good thing on tongs you're going to be twisting on. I made a pair that are much smaller and finer I like for finial scrolls and the like. The one suggestion I have in general is make the reins as short as the heat from the stock allows. Long reins like forging tongs lengthens the moment of leverage against you. Too short on the other hand puts your hand too close t hot steel for comfort.

 

All in all a nice job, well done.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

 

Cheers Frosty. I've left the reigns a little long just now as I wasn't overly sure what to do with them. I got called offshore as well so I didn't really get time to fiddle about. I'm considering flaring the ends slightly but we shall see. 

 

I forget the length I've left them but I reckon 10 -12" or so would be a good length for them. 

 

Would anyone recommend adjusting the tongs slightly to give a slight gap at the bit or leave them tight as they are? 

 

All the best 

Andy

 

Would anyone recommend adjusting the tongs slightly to give a slight gap at the bit or leave them tight as they are? 

 

 

Hi Andy, Scrolling tongs are meant to be your 'fingers' to be used in manipulating hot metal into shapes, or opening collars for fitting etc. 

 

Personally I like them with the tips touching and about a 3/16" to 1/4" gap at the joint end, that way you get a better purchase when trying to manipulate scrolls or flat bars to shape, and you can also use them to twist thin (within the range of the gap) items, 

 

 

Cheers John, I'll give them a bit of fettling when I get back home then. 

 

I'm loving the tongs from Fork tines! That's a great idea. I have an old fork head waiting for a new handle but I might just do that with it instead. 

 

All the best 

Andy

My first pair was mild steel and maybe 10 to 11 inches long. When I applied them to a hot scroll to straighten it a little, the jaws sprung open. I now have two pair 12 inches long and forged of 5/8" round auto coil spring, normalized. Reins were drawn out of the solid. They are quite strong.

Nice tongs, I think the bosses came out very well.  
On the subject of mig welding the reins, if you upset the bits first, it will give you the extra mass so as you grind them smooth, you'll get a nice transition from boss to rein.

Great idea Gerald. I cut the on the diagonal so I ended up with a very thick section to forge flat. One side came out better than the other but neither of them had a perfect transition. 

 

Frank - when you say they sprung open - do you mean they bent? 

 

All the best 

Andy

The ends should be spaced for the material you tend to use---generally if you are using tongs it's fairly thin stuff and so the bits should be close together.

 

Thicker stuff we tend to use a hammer or bending fork on.

 

I once forged a set of scrolling tongs from an old drop forged set of tin snips---I was finding them for US$1 at fleamarkets and picked up a rusty pair to "play" with.

Do you have any pictures of them Thomas? They sound interesting. 

 

Cheers

They only pictures I have of anything are those taken by other people.  They look like tin snip handles with the bits forged down into scrolling tong bits...

They only pictures I have of anything are those taken by other people.  They look like tin snip handles with the bits forged down into scrolling tong bits...

Lol ok. :P

 

No worries. 

 

All the best 

Andy

"Sprung open." Yes, the jaws opened up by bending, room temp, from simple pressure.

"Sprung open." Yes, the jaws opened up by bending, room temp, from simple pressure.

oh dear. Far from ideal... lets hope these serve their purpose. 

 

If push comes to shove I've plenty of coil spring I can forge a new pair out of. 

 

All the best 

Andy

If push comes to shove I've plenty of coil spring I can forge a new pair out of. 

 

 

Ideal !