biggraypig Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Just picked this up to hammer out a few small projects. I am new to the trade so any information is appreciated. Everything seems to be in working order, needs a bit of work but will be good to go in no time at all. Couple of questions? Should I line this forge? I work at a coal fired power plant and have access to ceramic refractory and plenty of fly ash. If so what would be the best way to go? I was thinking ceramic with fly ash packed in tight. I need some tongs. What do you prefer? Mostly for small projects, forge welding, knife blades, hinges etc. Thanks for any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heelerau Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 Nice little forge, I have a similar one, and it had the words cast into it, "clay Line", so I just dug some clay out of the horse paddock and clay lined it. The refractory you mention would be fine. Cheers and good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoghead55 Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 You have a great find ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biggraypig Posted April 3, 2014 Author Share Posted April 3, 2014 Thanks can't wait to build a fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biggraypig Posted April 3, 2014 Author Share Posted April 3, 2014 Would this be ok to line a forge with? Durafrax 2000. Sorry for the newby ? But I haven't seen anything in my search for knowledge. Then I will tamp it in with what we call sludge here at the power plant. It is silica fly ash byproduct from burning coal in the boiler with a polymer added to make a cake out of it. Thanks for any input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 Nice forge, good score. Can't hurt to ram some damp clay into it. I have a larger cast iron forge that's cracked nearly in two pieces, probably someone doused a fire with water while it was HOT. Says "clay before use" cast proud in the pan. The potential harm caused by claying is if water gets under the clay and causes it to rust out. I believe that's more common with sheet steel pans though. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herb Upham Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 I recommend not lining rivet forges, just allow ash to accumulate in the bottom around the grate. If you need a deep fire, recommended, place two fire bricks on each side of the grate and you will have a close equivalanet to a fire pot. I have one that has been in use for over 10 years and only replace the grate every 2-3 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 When I've need to clay a forge I dug it out of the creek and mixed it with wood ashes---or use adobe out here where creeks are unknown and arroyos flow maybe 4 times a year. Fancy folk use fire clay from a masonry supply store. Are you over thinking this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Yates Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 1500 Celsius = 2732 Degree Fahrenheit Thermal Expansion 30 °C—1500 °C ...... **** (Noted as above in Fahrenheit) The Math in equations are as follows .... 8.3 × 10-6 /°C (is equal to) 4.6 × 10-6/ºF This is to say the following : Maximum Use Temperature ..... 1,250 °C (= to 2,282 °F) **** (As per their Manufacturing Process Recomendations -- MPR) Note the Temperature Differance that the "Manufacture States is the Highest Recomended / Functional Opperating range" Also as per thair Site " Combined with the appropriate attachment method, Durafrax® 2000 can overcome temperature limitations, impact, and abrasion problems in many different industrial environments." I highly recomend you call "Saint-Gobain" and Speak to them about the Temperature Range you are wanting to use this Product in a Forge . Here is their Contact Information : http://www.wrt.saint-gobain.com/default.aspx?id=182548 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Yates Posted April 3, 2014 Share Posted April 3, 2014 I have No Clue what happened with all the Font issues in my Post ? Gerrrrrr Sorry Guys . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biggraypig Posted April 4, 2014 Author Share Posted April 4, 2014 Think ill do a layer of high temp paint then a thin layer of sludge (fly ash and polymer from the boiler) then durafrax 2000 packed in tight with sludge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 Hope this works? WAY too over thought! Just ram in some damp clay an inch thick give or take and it's good to go. Save the high end refractories for your gas forges. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 Greetings Biggraypig, You have a nice forge there... You do have some work to do to make it work for you ... Make sure you inspect blower operation and lube the bushings.. You should also inspect the pawl and ratchet and lube as well.. Next stop is the belt.. A 1/8 leather belt with lacing will do just fine .. Thicker belts doe not work as well on the small blower pulley.. Another suggestion is that your pump handle is to long... I would suggest a wheel barrel handle with a turned down shaft much shorter.. They are available at any hardware store.. Forget all the super refractory and as Frosty says just some clay will do just fine.. I wish you well and look forward to you showing us your first project.... Forge on and make beautiful things Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biggraypig Posted April 6, 2014 Author Share Posted April 6, 2014 Thanks guys I always seem to overthink things. I did think a shorter handle would be better. Everything works very good. Got the blower apart today to clean it up and oil it, need to braze a piece back on that was broken then should be good to go. Cut me a new belt out of some garlock gasket material, it is 1/64 thick rubber on both sides with fibers in the center much like a serpentine belt. I think it will work pretty good. Really appreciate all the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biggraypig Posted April 6, 2014 Author Share Posted April 6, 2014 The culprit broken piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cross Pein Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 I recommend not lining rivet forges, just allow ash to accumulate in the bottom around the grate. If you need a deep fire, recommended, place two fire bricks on each side of the grate and you will have a close equivalanet to a fire pot. I have one that has been in use for over 10 years and only replace the grate every 2-3 years. Herb, Where do you get the grate? I have a rivet forge that looks identical to the one posted in this thread, but the grate is shot. Rotted out between the top flange and the cast pan. If I had a lathe - I would be golden. BTW. I lined mine with ground up clay from a bag of Speedi-dri. And yes, use fire brick to make the height for the coal or else you will burn a lot of coal. Bill Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biggraypig Posted April 6, 2014 Author Share Posted April 6, 2014 I still have the old grate but ordered a new one from here. Centaur Forge Hope it gets here soon I need to put this thing together and build a fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cross Pein Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Thanks Biggreypig - I did not know those were available. I think I can work with that. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biggraypig Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 My Gpaws ANVIL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Admanfrd Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Or just dont clay at all and start forging. Thats always fun. How is the hand crank working out for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biggraypig Posted April 10, 2014 Author Share Posted April 10, 2014 Shortened the handle up a bit, everything spins very well, I think it will be a very nice little forge when I'm done fixing. Just need to find some time to go back together. Got my new tuyere, so just need to braze the broken piece, go back together and build a fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Admanfrd Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 A weld will be a lot better in a high heat situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 However the part that is broken is on the blower and so NOT a high heat situation and brazing is a perfectly good method of fixing breaks in cast iron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Admanfrd Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 Oh, I thought you were talking about repair of the teyure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhettbarnhart Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Ok,first please don't take the suggestions about not lining a cast iron rivet forge!!When I first got my rivet forge,I clayed it.After reading people's posts about claying not being necessary I just took the clay out,bad idea!!The forge cracked soon after while I was starting my forge fire,no,I didn't pour on water or do anything to crack the pan other then start a fire! admanfrd,this is a cast iron forge and most people don't know how to properly weld cast iron(including me)brazing is definitely a better option imo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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