jimbob Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 I was given an Anvil last night when I got it home and cleaned off the rust and dirt it says M&H Armitage mouse Hole 1.1.25 as near as I tell it is a Mouse Hole made between 1820-1835 weighting aprox 165 lbs. has a few chips along the edge the cutting block has been used also some light cuts on the horn, seems to have a sweet spot worn into the face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yesteryearforge Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 Far out Uh OH people dont say that anymore do they. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J W Bennett Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 Pictures we must have pictures John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feukair Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 Yep, any "new anvil" post without pictures should be ignored... hehe... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob Posted September 11, 2007 Author Share Posted September 11, 2007 :rolleyes:I'll see what I can do ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob Posted September 12, 2007 Author Share Posted September 12, 2007 ok here's a picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feukair Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 I like it! Cool score... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anvilfolk Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 Wow! Nice one! And here I am, using a 10 pound anvil (yeah, the number is correct. 10 pounds)! Heheheh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
primtechsmith Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 :DHey jimbob...you know if you sell that anvil to me for 10 bucks you will make 100% profit!:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 Anvilfolk This should give you some ideas on how to find a larger anvil. IForgeIron.com > Lessons in Metalworking > Blacksmithing > LB0005 Blacksmithing Anvils Thomas Powers Applied Anvil Acquisition Technique (TPAAAT) Ask everyone if they know where an anvil is located. From there, put cash in your pocket follow the leads. When you finally locate the anvil, cash goes a long way toward transferring ownership. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob Posted September 14, 2007 Author Share Posted September 14, 2007 you know my wife got a new book the other day called "The Secret" it deals with getting what you want...in short if you focus on it and decided that is what you really want you will get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anvilfolk Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 Hahahah! That was hilarious! I sure hope that technique is cross-continental! I live in a really small country, and blacksmithing's near extinct. I'll have to give it a go, though. I'll have to go to all the scrapyards I can find and start from there. Thanks! P.S. Oh, and I might be able to get my hands on some rail track! Maybe long enough to be a two-person anvil! My mom wants in on it too! *grin* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 You will need an anvil stand for that rail road steel BP0334 Adjustable Anvil Stand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob Posted September 14, 2007 Author Share Posted September 14, 2007 I don't think I need THAT much adjustment...a three or four foot section might work for this old anvil! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anvilfolk Posted September 14, 2007 Share Posted September 14, 2007 Luckily, we've been cutting some trees at the farm, and we've plenty of sections of pine trunk. That's what I'm currently using, with the small anvil screwed on. It doesn't move... much The floor is concrete inside, and full of stone on the outside! Oh, grassy, grassy lands, where are you? Using the TPAAAT today, I found a shop that sells anvils! First day I tried it too! I'd like your opinion on it though. No photos, but they don't seem very blacksmithingy... they're painted (the horn too, not the face), so I doubt they were made for putting hot metal on them. The horn is also really small and chunky. They can order an 88 pounder for around $200... seems like way too much. Sounds a bit worse than the $5! But I've still got to hit the junkyards! Thank you, Thomas Powers, whoever you are! I seem to be on the right track! ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 Warning signals flying! Do those anvils have the hardy hole oriented on the diagonal with the face? Is the horn rather flat and "duck bill" shaped? If so it may be an infamous chinese cast iron anvil shaped object rather than a real anvil and you would be better off buying a chunk of scrap steel at the scrapyard than them. If it is one of them they sell for $28 on sale at Harbour Freight... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob Posted September 18, 2007 Author Share Posted September 18, 2007 I got one of thoes also had it for 25 years... you can beat on it but you can't do the work you can on a good one! it does make a good weight to hold my treddle hammer down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anvilfolk Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 Oops! I'm really sorry, I somehow missed these replies! Thank you both very much! I'm not going to go for it unless I'm really, really desperate then. Thanks! A friend of mine managed to pick up some rail, two pieces about 19 pounds each. It's not perfect, but with some drilling&screws they should be nice and solid on some tree trunks I've got. I can also grind the rails and get a pseudo-horn. Also, I've heard they're pretty hard. Is it still OK to use an angle-grinder with one of those slim cutting disks? The hacksaw is out of the question, and I think the blade on the jigsaw is too short. What worries me is the hardness. I -HATE- angle-grinders, and one of those disks "blowing up" on my face is not a thought I cherish! I can use the regular grinding disks, but it'll take ages Thank you again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 You can cut rail with a saw but you have to do it from the underside. The rail's contact surface is induction hardened and will kill a saw blade almost immediately. However if you cut from the bottom it isn't a problem as the hardened area is very thin so the teeth take it from beneath without having to actually cut it. Not that I'm recommending a hack saw for RR rail but it isn't as difficult as you might think. A cutoff blade in an angle grinder or a hot saw will work but they will harden the rail in the heat effect zone. Not as much as torch cutting but it'll harden it up regardless. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 I've cut trolly rail from the top down using a section of a metal cutting bandsaw blade mounted in a 3' Sandvik bowsaw frame. 19 pounds is light for all but a jeweler's anvil I wound not cut any mor weight off it! When using rail that size I would probably cast it vertical in a bucket of concrete and work on the small end to get all the weight possible under the hammer instead of to the side of it. A full penetration weld of a block on top of the crossection will make the face for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anvilfolk Posted September 23, 2007 Share Posted September 23, 2007 Good point about not cutting. I guess I'll just use them as-is. Maybe I can find a nice, thick plate to weld on it... I think we might have some leftover cement, but then I need to make a stand. I'm on a tight budget, can you tell? *grin* Anyway, I guess I'll just screw it down to the trunk. The top should be pretty hard from what you've said, which is good. Any risk of shattering? I had a small piece of steel cuddle itself inside my arm this summer from a piece of steel that was too old&hard. I can use the side (cut) part of the rail for setting, which should be pretty square. I can round one side, and keep the other nice and sharp. Thank you all for your suggestions. This weekend hasn't been spent on the Anvil Quest, unfortunately. I'm trying to finish a bellows for re-enactment :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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