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need some axe help


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Ihave a stanley 22 oz framing hammer. I seen someone turn a ballpeen hammer into a boarding axe. Does anyone have any ideas how to forge without melting the rubber handle. I love the look of a bearded viking axe. Any ideas or suggestions are appreciated.post-24774-0-82836100-1367512852_thumb.jpost-24774-0-24246100-1367512892_thumb.jpost-24774-0-14427200-1367512936_thumb.j

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This project sounds like it's a bit beyound your skills at this moment.  Buy some cheap old ballpeens and practice till you get the shaping down right.  Also practice your forge welding.

 

In over 32 years of studying pre 1000 AD physical culture I don't think I have ever seen a viking era axe with an integral metal handle; so if you are going fantasy anyway you can play around with the shape a lot!

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You're not going to be able to do that without melting the handle, I'm not sure how it's attached, perhaps you could remove and reattach it? Either that or turn what metal there is into a tang, but this wouldn't be very strong. I forged a ball pein into a crude bearded axe a while back. I'm a beginner too, but perhaps you can get something from it!

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQ15D_D7X4U

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I dis agree with gundog, a very localized heat and laying sopping wet rag on the neck before the handle should keep it cool enough.

brian brazeal does this when forging and it really works well. be vigilant and cool the handle if it gets hot.  have fun ! it's just a hammer...

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I stand corrected, although it'll depend on what kind of forge you have, you'll still want to keep the handle and cloth plenty away from the main blast and think about what you're going to grip with the tongs. The trick will be to cool it at the neck, not the handle as suggested, because the rubber will insulate the heat and melt the glue and rubber from the inside even if the outside is wrapped.

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Ok thanks for the insite ill keep all this in mind. Also will make sure to keep the handle cool. I'm off work for a couple of months from a hand injury so I can't even work right know. But as soon as I start ill make sure to get pics up to show progress.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Try this. Punch a small hole in the bottom of a paint can and fill it with water. Suspend the can over the edge of your fire so that the stream falls on the part you want cool, just make sure it drains away from your fire. Be careful, if you leave that can there it will get hot, so use caution when refilling it.
Another thing that may help is a small heat shield. A piece of sheet with a notch cut in it wide enough to accommodate the handle. This may help protect the rubber from direct flame.

Don't be afraid to ruin your work piece, we all do from time to time.

Adam

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You could do it if you kept the part that says "Antivibe" wrapped in wet rags and keep wetting them. I'm not sure that I would go through all of that on this piece of steel - to make an axe from it... but its possible if that is what you wanted to do. I keep welded handles cool that when when forge welding pattern welded and for some "blacksmiths" knives.

I'll attach an image as an example on a small knife that I did, where the blade was heat treated and sharpened prior to the bends being forged into the handle. I simply wrapped the blade in wet paper towels and kept them saturated. It worked great as you can see by how tight the "temper" colors are on the steel.

 

IMG_6486copy_zps421d0da4.jpg

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how does that prevent the heat climbing up the metal handle shaft? wont rubber will block the cooling effect of the water so it will still melt from inside the rubber?


The heat shield won't. That's just there to help deflect some of the heat pouring from the fire from directly affecting the grip. The wet rag that was suggested will do the same, perhaps better.
The drip can, if setup to bleed onto the haft between the grip and the head, should help with preventing the heat from climbing the handle too high.
I found the drip can idea in a book, possibly called the Art of Blacksmithing. It's been a while and I don't have it handy.

Adam
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  • 2 years later...

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