Chance

thank you every one

I am lost . I can not find a reference section . can you point me towards it please .

May I ask what steels were used in this tool of beauty .

No no thank you for what you have past on to me I have looked around maybe not enough yet have did lots or reading . I am sure it is on here and I have just missed it . I am looking to use soft steel in the center that will contrast . I will do some more searching and reading on here and maybe just go waist some time and coal and see what happens . worst that can happen is it fails and I learn something . again thank you

can you give me a good suggestion on what to use for the inside of the spear head .

I often do just go grab a handle or dowel that fits the bill . This time I am doing it as old school as I can forging with charcoal I made .Pattern welded head from scrapes . If all of this works out then near the end of the coming summer i will try to smelt my own iron the way the Vikings did.

OK to lay it out I have forged welded 5160 bits to mild steel for more then a few axe heads and blade edges . I also made a billet of lumber band some kind of saw blade and some kind of wire in to a random twist for a friend to do stock removal dagger looked fine . Question is rail spike mild steel rebar (sucker rod i think) what would look good together for a spear head . There will be a 5160 or some other decent blade edge steel around it . blade will be 12 to 16 inch plus the socket so 20 t0 30 overall. just after thoughts before I do something to silly . Think I found an ash tree to split for shafts .

yes winter is best I agree .that is why it is time for me to get out there and chop what I need . 6 feet is a little short for what I am after but could do if need be.

Not sure there are any roots long and straight around here . Rocks right under every where you put your shovel . I guess you can work them straight with heat the same as any green wood .

I think there are a few ash tree out there not sure what type though . oak maple and not sure of the other things out there . I will likely have to split it out what ever I use. thanks for the imput

lol funny that is what I thought I would get for an answer . From what I can find there is no real prof of one more then the other . common sense would suggest what ever was handy in a suitable type of wood at the time of need.

I an trying to make a Viking like spear. The shaft is where I am stuck in the past I just went to a big box and picked up dowel. this time I am going in to the bush and chopping down what I need. I had in my head that the Vikings would split it out of a log and work it round . now I see people saying use a sapling . any one out there have a idea how Vikings did it . the plan is that this year is to forge a pattern welded head as well then maybe even do my own smelting . yes I am even using hand forged axes to do the chopping .

axe all the way . nice job battle hammer would be my next choice .

the rubber is glued on the heat may soften it up and let you pull it of .

I do have my mixed oil hot (I know I could use better oil then what I do just a mix or motor and canola oil and what ever gets in it ) . few chunks of mild steel made red hot and tossed in (the flair up is all ways fun :) ) . I am game to try new things out so do you heat quench and repeat right out of the quench or is there a cool down time . I have some spear heads I an "aboot" to make out of 5160 . I would like to try it out .

nice work by both indeed. great blades need great holding-carry options .

can I ask triple hardening how dose this help on 5160 (and I really like 5160) I understand 3 or 4 rounds of normalizing really worked steel . I often temper in oven and then do draw tempering on the back of middle depending on blade style . hardening more then once ? . I bring the heat up slow and soak it trying to get a even heat through out and quench in a large amount of oil . now I can believe it would help just not getting my head wrapped around . can you point me to a link or just a quick few words on it . and I will try not to talk to funny for you ;) .

yes torque to yield I think they call that and it is showing up in domestic cars now you can even by them in rebuild kits now for custom engine work . not that it has any bearing on this .

I say use the pipe but weld or forge weld a bit in to it say a chunk form and old shovel it would be fast .cut parts with grinder or the like and your socket is all ready done . I did that type of thing for some spear heads but used old chevy spring for the pointy bits . worked well looked like hell . see if I can dig one up may be one in my shop stuff ends up there to die .

I really like the rough stuff big fan of post apocalyptic I am guessing a forge to finish . I really am going to have to get my forge set so I can play and maybe have some thing for show and tell. nice toy.

yes it can get a bit cold her but I am south central Ontario so not to bad here not sure how you deal with all that heat where you are and then by a forge no thanks . I will have to try the clamp temper trick got a big knife that keeps bending back to the spring shape.

any one ever make 3leged lewis pins or sugest what steel it should be made of

hey now stromcrow some of us Canadians are sensitive . not me but some . nice look to bad for the brake . used 5160 can some times do strange things like have the old spring arch show up

Very nice blade some day just maybe i can put a sword next to one of yours and not be kicked out for the trash i brought in .lol love the look of that steel.