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Well, I've spent enough money on supplies that I decided it was time to start a thread about this.

 

 

I've been slowly planning out this build, and am finally pulling the trigger on some materials.

 

 

Last week I brought home this used motor to power the beast, 1.5 HP industrial motor, single phase, 220 v.

 

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Then today whilst wandering the scrapyard I found the right hunk of steel for the anvil, 9.25" dia steel, 3' long. Weighs in about #700.

 

F7C634E0-FE42-454B-A481-3B7C730C7C51-157

 

 

 

 

That's all for now, I'll keep ya'll updated as I slowly get together the stuff to start the build.

 

 

Stephen.

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I think that's enough to get a body thinking about options. Keep an eye out for a goodly thick piece of plate for the baseplate .

 

Pics, please, we love pics ad progress pics are some of the best kind.

 

Frosty the Lucky

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Well.....

 

I'm one of those guys who only sorta has a shop.  I have a small sized "shop" area that has a roof n two walls, the hammer is gonna be right on the corner with most of it outside. I'll probably keep a grill cover or something similar on it at first until I can add some roof going out over it. 

 

I'll take some pics of it sometime soon. 

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I warned you it'd be a slow thread!  :D

Here's my latest acquisitions for the cause - two pillow blocks an some grease fittings. Just getting stuff fer this as I can afford it. 

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___________________________________

 

The other night me and Dad got the anvil block unloaded, and to make it easier for moving next time, we decided to leave it upright. Not wanting it to fall on someones toe, I made a frame and braces for it so it'll stay up. 

In the pic is my 147 lb anvil for comparison.

DSC09273_zps42b189b1.jpg

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The pipe won't be ridgid enough unless you're thinking a 10lb hammer. If you wre to put enough plate around it to give it enough ridgidity you could do without it. If you can ppick up some oh say 14" 120lb wide flange and box it well you'd have somethig you could probably hang a 50lb ram from.

 

Still, the 4" pipe will come in handy. Free is goooood.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Next pieces checked off the list!

Made up these rollers tonight in the machine shop, these guys will be used on the top of the ram for the helve attachment.


They're based off the design James gave me, zerk fittings on either side, and a trench milled into it to hold the grease, with a drilled hole connecting the two.


BABB3276-6426-4777-8106-95FF050DE261-193


C29F4922-9B23-4402-8FC8-87FC1E73B75F-193


9235E7CE-DC96-4E9B-85F8-AE35C4B7E73E-193

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  • 1 month later...

Well, I just finished paying back my parents for my machining classes over this spring semester, so hopefully I'll start being able to put some more money towards this and get it going again...  Slowly but surely!

 

While we're waiting, I've got a question.
 The ~#700  chunk of steel for the anvil is 3' long.  That's too tall as it is.  Should I leave it as it is and compensate with a small step around the hammer? Or should I get about 6" cut off it (I can probably get it done with the saw at the college's weld shop, I know the guys there as I got my welding degree from them). 

My worry is that I want this anvil to be as heavy as possible, and by trimming 6ish" I'll lose approx #116... And I'll have to go through the hassle of getting it cut.  

Thoughts?   
 

Thanks guys, Stephen.

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Knurl or not?

I'm taking the motor to the college with me today, and I'm going to start working on the contact wheel for it. And I'm trying to decide if it would be beneficial to knurl it for extra grabbing power, or if it would tear up the tire.  I can make like a really fine knurl and not go to deep so it's not real aggressive. 

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Some slip is desirable when starting.  Once engaged I doubt that a knurled spindle would make any difference.

If you knurl the spindle your can aways remove the knurl if it doesnot do what you think it will.

 

Remove or just soften it with emery cloth till it performs as you wish.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Knurl or not?

I'm taking the motor to the college with me today, and I'm going to start working on the contact wheel for it. And I'm trying to decide if it would be beneficial to knurl it for extra grabbing power, or if it would tear up the tire.  I can make like a really fine knurl and not go to deep so it's not real aggressive. 

Mine is just smooth aluminum and works nicely

post-38-0-73801600-1372307089_thumb.jpg

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I think the knurl is unnecessary, smooth will give you finer starting and speed control. The 3' anvil should be OK if you're using bolt on dies. The top of my lower die is at 39.5", but I guess it depends on how tall you are.

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Thanks ya'll I decided not to knurl, makes sense once you explain it to me.  :D

 

 

 

Well, we've got two more items checked off.

 

The other day I stopped at the scrap yard and checked around for a spare tire. I looked for a solid one, but after looking in the trunks of a good 35-40 cars settled for a good condition inflatable spare tire.

 

Tire- $15.00

 

78093DCE-1CBA-43B2-AF3C-5925C97DD127-133

 

 

 

Then the other day I started working on the contact wheel for the motor.

 

I started with a piece of 2.5" 12L14, ran a skin cut along the surface to pretty it up,

 

Drilled through it  39/64" dia, and reamed it to 5/8 for the motor shaft.

Then I drilled out the other side up to 1.5" (to lighten it some)

 

(1.5" is a big drill bit!)

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After drilling I bored it out to 1 5/8" (I didn't really need to bore it, but I did it to clean up the surface, the large drill bits are in poor condition and leave a rough surface).

 

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Then I turned down the end where the motor shaft inserts, as it didn't need to be as big, and it would help remove some more weight.

I also chamfered all the corners so I wouldn't have any sharp edges.

 

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Next I broached the 3/16" key way then drilled and tapped a hole on the backside for a 1/4-20 set screw.

 

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Finito!

 

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