twcoffey

Aaron, Don't use. This is a museum piece.

Try a "brooks anvil" search on this site. I found lots of threads and owners.

Bob T, If you do a google search, "treadle hammer tooling" you'll get more ideas than you can imagine. Ted

Some slip is desirable when starting. Once engaged I doubt that a knurled spindle would make any difference. If you knurl the spindle your can aways remove the knurl if it doesnot do what you think it will.

Dryer vent hose with sheet metal reducers on each end. Find reducers at furnace supply store or make you own or have a sheet metal shop make them.

Normal bituminous coal is around 15000 btu per pound.

My opinion is that any angle in the flow will affect with the mixng process. Inserting the tubes at an angle is the proper way to do this.

I have some extra tire hammer springs from the same company "Msdspring" that the instructions specify. contact me at twcoffey@citlink.net. for price.

Thanks for the responses. I now better understand why many of the hammer manufacturers use dovetails and wedges.

I have been having die mounting bolts on a tire hammer come loose. Is it just me? Lock washers, and locktite seem to do okay but maybe someone has a better idea.

I am sure you would need batteries to start and run the motor with the solar panels used for charging the batteries. Solar panels will probably not give the surge current required to start a 1 hp motor.

You have to admit that was a good weld.

I don't think it is a good idea to try to drive a #4 blower gear box unless you have some way of drive it around 30 rpm. bearing will wear quickly under continuous operation unless frequently lubed. I took a #4 fan blade and the blower housing off of the gear box and mounted them directly on a 1700 rpm motor. You may need to fashion a bracket for this purpose. In my case it was a simple 1/4" plate. With an adjustable trottling vane over the blower housing inlet it works fine for normal sized fire boxes allowing an idling blow up to and including a forge welding blow by closing and opening the air inlett vane.

Looks like an ACME anvil sold by Sears in the early 1900s with a hardened steel top recently added. Should be okay provided the top weld is good. Testing the weld by tapping a hammer on the surface and listening for any changes in sound as you tap at different spots on the surface. Uniform sound would indicate an acceptable weld.

I keep all dimensions the same as Clay's plans except as I noted in the drawings and text above. Ted