JHCC Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 That's excellent Charlotte, good thinking! I wonder how it'd work if a guy just nailed 2"x4" blocks to 3 points on the base?Hmmmmmm.Frosty The Lucky.I've been thinking about nailing three bits of tire sidewall (about 1/2" thick) on the bottom of my anvil stump for the same reason. I'll let you know how it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 I've been thinking about nailing three bits of tire sidewall (about 1/2" thick) on the bottom of my anvil stump for the same reason. I'll let you know how it works.UPDATE: I did this last night with three pieces of sidewall from a motorcycle tire, which is a lot thinner than the material I'd planned to use. It did not work well at all. The stump was rocking something awful, and the anvil was bouncing all over the place. Made necking down a piece of leaf spring (for a nail header) practically impossible. Definitely pulling those back off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAnotherViking Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 Bit of an old thread, but useful info all the same. I have a question for those who have used both wood and metal stands on concrete floors. Would one damage the floor more than the other with all the downwards force? In my head I would have thought a metal tripod stand might dig in more than wood, or is this a non issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 4, 2017 Share Posted December 4, 2017 1 minute ago, JustAnotherBiker said: In my head I would have thought a metal tripod stand might dig in more than wood, or is this a non issue? Depends on the metal stand. If it's a tripod with pointy feet, sure, it could do some damage. If the feet end in plates that lie flat on the floor, probably a non-issue. (NB: Some people like to have flat feet on their tripods with holes to bolt the stand directly to the floor. Never tried it myself, but a good option if you don't have to worry about layout flexibility.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAnotherViking Posted December 6, 2017 Share Posted December 6, 2017 Thanks for that. I've poured the concrete base for the new forge/shed last week, and it's only about 3" thick, so was weighing up options of what to make new anvil stand out of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted December 6, 2017 Share Posted December 6, 2017 I'm totally sold on the "heavy metal stand" concept now. If I had a dedicated shop space (rather than just part of my garage), I would definitely go with a metal stand bolted to the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAnotherViking Posted December 6, 2017 Share Posted December 6, 2017 Given the miniature size of the new shed (9x9, with a corner chopped off [i'll post pics when it's installed next week]), i'm probably going to have to opt for a movable stand (and quite likely movable base for the leg vice too) so I can shift things out of the way when working on bigger projects. Would also be good if I can move them outside during our three days of summer which usually arrives around mid-May in Ireland. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Lee Posted August 21, 2019 Share Posted August 21, 2019 Cut stump into a flat-top tapered down rectangle and angled iron a frame around the stump. surface charred the wood to keep from rotting. welding tool holders was an added bonus. is strong and will last a lifetime. So mine is a combo of both iron and wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 21, 2019 Share Posted August 21, 2019 Welcome aboard William, glad to have you. If you'll put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many members live within visiting distance. Any pictures of your stand? We don't usually believe something actually exists without pictures. We LOVE pics you know. I've never heard the claim charring wood prevents rot. Do you have cites? Sprinkling copper filings on fresh log oil prevents most any kind of growth. I don't believe you can buy copper sulfate wood treatment/preservative anymore (can't in Alaska anyway) but it's not terribly hard to make. Dusting a seal coat with copper filings or dust while it's still wet works well as an alternative though. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Williams Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 https://www.abodo.co.nz/resources/articles/how-long-does-charred-wood-shou-sugi-ban-last This site talks about some of the variables in a simple and direct way, including a warning that some woods (including hardwoods) aren't suitable for the method. I don't know if I agree with all of the generalizations made, however, based on the anecdote below: I've still got a chunk of hardwood log that was partially burned in a fire sitting in the pasture. It has been there for years with no notable degradation, but the typical sticks, limbs, etc. have long since rotted or been eaten by termites. It is clear that the charring has deterred rot/bugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted September 27, 2019 Share Posted September 27, 2019 I just finished my anvil base today and posted the picture of it in the "Show Me Your Anvil Stands" forum. I chose a 20" diameter "just died" tree trunk to make it out of. (still good and wet) This is my first anvil and stand and for just a few dollars for strap and bolts (and a bunch of labor) it's a good solid base for my anvil. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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