Hey guys, I tried searching around but couldn't find anything - does anyone know where I can find some photos showing the different types of steel finishes out there?  I've read a lot about different types of wax, linseed oil, tung oil, rustoleum, etc out there, but I can't decide which one I want to use on my current piece.  a photo of each different finish end result I think would be really helpful.  Does this exist anywhere?

 

Thanks!

 

Lodestone

I don't know if this exists anywhere or not.  Even if it does it may not prove all that useful as pictures don't always show a finish how it appears in person (or under different lighting conditions).

 

I suggest you decide on a couple of finishes that you want to try (and is locally available to you) and test small amounts to see what you like.

 

ron

Thanks Ron, I'll probably end up doing something like that..  The reason I ask is because I've spent about a year working on this chandelier (pictures linked below), I've got it all cleaned up and ready for the final welding (the crescents and candle mounts are not welded yet).  I was planning on leaving it raw with just a coat of linseed oil, but of course my wife decided that the "silver" color doesn't match her dining room, so she wants a darker finish.... can you point me towards something that might work for that?

 

http://imgur.com/a/Ugr6p

 

THanks again,

 

Lodestone

Gun cold blue would give a nice dark finish.

Thanks for the suggestion Woody, any input on where I could find instructions on that type of finish?  Or is it just a product I can buy?

I would make up a few samples and let the customer decide.  Cold gun blue is a finish product that you can buy.  A mustard etch might look nice.  I often use a mix of burnt umber pigment with gold acrylic to imitate a patinaed bronze finish.  I have done some nice looking work with spray cans of textured finish in dark tones with slight limning with bronze toned sprays.  Samples provide a research base and basic recipe for each finish as well as a selling tool!  Then, once a decision is made, that sample becomes a comparison example to get the final look reasonably accurate over the larger scaled work.

Greetings 25,

 

Nice work....  I see that you have done some brass brushing...  You have to consider this in your final finish... Gun blue or any oxide top will bleed of into your rubbings...  It will be hard to blend in what you have done....   I suggest a natural finish with a Renaissance wax finish.  It will last forever...

 

 

Good luck

Jim

If you want darker, there is also applying oil while the steel is hot (black heat for 300 to 500 F is enough, no need to get to scaling temps).  This also works with wax.  Different oils and waxes give slightly different hues as does how heavy it is applied and the temp.  I've read of people mixing graphite (or powdered charcoal) in with waxes and oils to darken them before applying that as a finish.  Or you could heat it to black heat then when cool apply oil or lacquer or whatever finish.

 

Many ways to skin this cat.

 

ron

Thanks very much for your input guys, I'll have to try out a few of your suggestions to see what works best. 

 

I'll be sure to post pics when I'm done!

 

Thanks again,

 

Lodestone

This book is mostly non-ferrous but it has some good stuff.

As mentioned by Ron,oil applied to heated metal works very well...especially for an interior finish.I have done this often with linseed oil and a small propane torch.Just heat an area(to black heat) and rub oil on with a cloth.Be careful as the rag may occasionally ignite.This process can give anything from yellow to brown to black.Black taking the longest of course.It does take some time,but I personally love the way it looks.Usually while still warm,I will rub paste wax on it.

Another alternative to gun blue is machinists layout blue. Comes in cans with brush or spray cans. Available from any industrial supply.

I think the idea for a thread with different iron finishes is a good one. Here is some work I have around with different finishes.

 

First, Mild steel, right from forge, bees wax applied hot

 

Second, Mild steel, right from forge, Johnsons past wax, this piece is 5 years old, you can see the wax becoming cloudy 

 

Third, Mild steel, right from forge, Guilders paste, Black and Iris Blue, thinned with mineral sprites

 

Forth, Wrought iron, forge, etched with hydrochloric acid for about 24 hours, bees wax applied hot

 

Firth, W1 forged and filed bright, Iris Blue Guilders paste, thinned with mineral sprites

 

Mackenzie

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Wow thanks for the pics Martin!  That's exactly what I was hoping to find here!!!  I really like finish on your third piece!

 

I think the idea for a thread with different iron finishes is a good one. Here is some work I have around with different finishes.

 

First, Mild steel, right from forge, bees wax applied hot

 

Second, Mild steel, right from forge, Johnsons past wax, this piece is 5 years old, you can see the wax becoming cloudy 

 

Third, Mild steel, right from forge, Guilders paste, Black and Iris Blue, thinned with mineral sprites

 

Forth, Wrought iron, forge, etched with hydrochloric acid for about 24 hours, bees wax applied hot

 

Firth, W1 forged and filed bright, Iris Blue Guilders paste, thinned with mineral sprites

 

Mackenzie

Excellent topic! Terrific examples Mackenzie. I never thought of using layout blue, (diechem (pronounced Dikum) when I was a kid) It produces a very nice color. How durable is it?

 

Frosty the Lucky.

It is not layout fluid. The blue color is "Guilders Paste", color "Iris Blue". This is pigment made for artist. It is the consistency of shoe polish. I thinned it with mineral spirits and painted it on. It seems to hold up fine in a conditioned building. I will clear coat over top of this come times for a more durable finish.

 

The company makes many colors

 

Mackenzie

Diechem is made in many colors now also, Green, red, black, yellow and more besides the original blue. The colors can be mixed like paint so custom colors can be made in your own shop. It's reasonably durable but if used for exterior work should have some form of exterior clear coat added.

Sounds fancy, when ever I have needed layout fluid I have just used a fat tip sharpy to color the surface then scratch into that.

I've got her all welded up and almost ready for finishing... right now I'm thinking heating to black and applying Linseed oil may work the best.  My only concern with leaving it "raw metal" versus say coating it with black rustoleum or something like that, is that my welds aren't exactly the cleanest so maybe a coat of rustoleum would help hide some of the imperfections.  any thoughts guys?

We have a graphite and wax called zeebrite for producing the live surface irony look on the old cast iron kitchen ranges. Rekkit and Coleman make it. You can make your own with renaissance wax and a bit of flake graphite.

 

The simplest everyday finish is shoe polish, any colour you chose will work fine for interior metalwork. You can build it up in layers and leave the area over your wobbly welds unbuffed to disguise them a little :)

 

Alan