Vulcan anvil - Too far gone?

[itsme]

I am new to this site, and this is my first post. I have been trying diversify my metalworking skill, and one item I have been unable to find is a good anvil. I live in Montana, so my choices are limited, but this is the best thing I have found. Is there any chance this anvil can be repaired, and is it usable in this condition? I know it is cast, and it is badly broken, but the hardy is intact (sort of). I have not actually seen it yet, just the pictures (it is not in my town). The seller tells me it weighs 100#

 

 

 

 

[Daniel.85]

Vulcans are already pretty low on the anvil quality chart. I have a vulcan and use it probably more than any other vulcan gets used but that one I wouldnt waste my time with. Id pay $20 for it if its the only option you have right now, otherwise keep looking.

[VaughnT]

It looks very servicable to me.  A lot depends on how much flat area there actually is on the anvil's top.  Photos can be deceptive.

 

I would clean up all of the edges so you have a variety of radii to bend stock around, and then get to work.  Any time you feel like you need the pritchel hole, figure a way around it.  Personally, I can't remember the last time I used the pritchel on any of my anvils except to  punch out a small hole...... and I usually just drill the holes instead.

 

Also, don't be afraid to have an anvil shipped.  Might seem expensive, but you can shop around to get a really good price.  From Mass to SC, I had a 300# anvil shipped to my door for less than a buck a pound.  And that means the total cost of the anvil to me was just under $3/lb, which is a good deal (not great) for an anvil in that condition.  

 

Keep your eyes open for anvils one or two states over and open an account on uship.com or get to know local smiths in the area.  Lots of great folks here that don't mind lending a hand.

[itsme]

Thank you for your suggestions, the seller has not offered a price, but it will definately be under $100. I will keep you updated.

[VaughnT]

It should be well under $100, in my opinion.  Though Vulcans are generally fairly good anvils (bottom of the barrel compared to Fisher, Wright or Trenton), that one has seen better days.  I'd go $75 at the max, and even then it had better not be too long of a drive to pick it up.  Of course, you're in big sky country and what constitutes a "short" drive for you folks is generally what we down here consider a week's vacation.

[Glenn]

If you add your location to your profile, someone may be able to help you locate an anvil in your area.

[Timothy Miller]

Its junk I would pass save your time and money and buy a good one. If you were living at a subsistence level I would say its a workable anvil. 

[itsme]

I think I have successfully updated my profile now...let me know if there are any options in my area. I have $250 to spend

[David Gaddis]

Do not waste your money on the first thing that shows...like that piece of junk.  many time you can get a decent piece of steel to be your first anvil until you can acquire a good one. Just do not throw good money after anything bad. All you have then is wasted money and scrap iron that is expensive.

 

 

Carry on

[itsme]

Thank you for your advice, I decided to pass.  I have actually been looking for a while, and besides light harbor freight cast anvils, or insanely high priced ebay + shipping, I don't see it happening. Same old song, right?

[DanBrassaw]

As most of us beginners have learned, the first anvil can take a long time. I (and I'm sure many others) made do with a piece of RR track to begin with, as well as other work-arounds. Both of my anvils came from being in the right place at the right time. From what I hear though, the northeast is a much friendlier place anvil-wise. I wish you luck!

[Dale M.]

My wife bought me a 100 Vulcan in almost pristine condition for $200.... The anvil above seems to to be in about $20 condition.... Useable maybe but needing lots of TLC and still pretty sad...

 

Dale

[eric sprado]

Holy  smokes man-there are LOTS of blacksmiths and a very active blacksmiths' association there. You need to contact those folks!!!! You don't say what part of the state you are in. I personally know several in the Bitteroot area and in Butte area. Butte,with it's old mines,has a plethora of old stuff around. Send me an email if you contact folks there and I'll see what I can do. Eric Sprado in Deadwood, Oregon.

[Hilt and Hammer Workshop]

   I waited almost two years for the wright anvil to come along (see what I did there? ) . Patience is of the essence,my friend. There are anvils in all sorts of condition that people try to sell for prices that would make you think they were made of precious metals . If you find a good one (Trenton,Peter Wright,Hay Budden,etc.) in good condition,it will serve you well the rest of your career,and probably many more after that. My Wright is over 150 years old,and still going strong.  Although I found mine on craigslist, it is ,like Eric said, a really good idea to form some connections with local smiths. The more people that know you are looking for one,the better. Best of success in the hunt !

[Clif]

I'm a rough beginer at forge work (won't call myself a blacksmith yet, just love beating hot metal) I don't know anything about Vucan anvils so I'd say follow what most on this site are saying and pass on this if its not free.   Ask around, let everyone you know that your looking and something will turn up.  Ask every farmer you see if they have one they no longer use and would part with.

 

My first 2 "anvils" were lumps of steel, first a 2 x 2 in square x 10 in long block stuck to the top of a 100+ pound yew log.  Loved it for working small stuff.  next is 4 x 8 x10 sittng on a bigger yew log.  I have rounded off the edges to varing degrees and can work what ever I like.  I found it gathering dust in the local iron mungers off cut corner.  $30 was all I gave for it (about 40 cents a pound).  About 8 months ago a friend gave me an old english anvil that his mother had in her garden.  Free for the taking.  I still find that I like working on the big block more than the anvil. 

[ThomasPowers]

For over 2000 yeasr the standard blacksmith's anvil looked a whole lot like a big hunk of metal.  The London Pattern anvil design goes back around 200 years---which one is what a *real* anvil looks like?

 

So go find a big hunk of steel; check your local implement repair place, hunt down a damaged forklift tine, find a broken knuckle from a RR car coupler or even buy a piece of *scrap*  (I pay 20 cents a pound at the local scrapyard) and get to forging.  Save $200 of that for when a good London pattern one shows up.

 

The London Pattern  is sort of like the swiss army knife of anvils---it has all the bells and whistles: horn, heel, hardy, pritchel, cutting step, etc.  However it's not the *best* design for specialized tasks---much better for ornamental work than heavy hammering and for something like blade making most of those "extras" are not needed---google for the kukri  maker doing great work using a sledgehammer head set into a stump as his anvil!

[itsme]

Thank you for your input, I am still looking, and I do have a few small steel blocks that I can clamp in a crappy cast vice that came with my house.  I should have the forge I am building up and running soon. Then I can start mangling the steel at my disposal!!