Well, I'm going to be building an open shed (no walls) with a forge inside of it, the shed shall be made of wood supports and the top shall be a either a resistant drywall-like cover (forgot the name in english) or a roof tiles. I was planning on going to the scrap yard, finding some metal parts for the forge and buy some plumbing tubes and a decent hair dryer, I'm probably gonna make it around 5x3m, I'll have to measure at the area. Is this setup OK?

Anyways, being that my supplies are limited due to the high price in my country, I'd like to know what I can use for an anvil. Also, other than tongs, gloves and glasses, what shall I need? Oh, and last thing, can I use a normal construction hammer or is there a specific hammer and can I use those smoth files instead of a grinder?

p.s. I'll be trying to make small daggers.

A pole barn with open wood joists is used by a couple blacksmith groups that I am aware of.  The area around the forge is protected by a hood. 

 

You want at least 12 feet headroom (3.6 meters) for if you have a striker.

 

Look for a lump of steel that weighs about 50kg for an anvil.  High carbon is better, mild steel is OK.  Cast iron is bad since it is very soft (less rebound than concrete).  Railroad rail, truck axles, forklift tines die blocks, railroad car couplers and similar pieces are excellent for anvils. Large mild steel slugs or drops are pretty good.  I have a 30# (14 kg) slug of mild steel as a small anvil for when I have guests.

 

If you can score a blower from a clothing dryer, or a furnace or water heater exhaust fan you will have a much better blower than a hair dryer.

 

Claw hammers are not a good choice.  Ball pein, cross pein, drilling, and small sledge hammers are better choices.  The 2-3 pound range (900g-1500g) is suitable for most people depending on your physical condition.  You may want larger or smaller.  The faces will need dressed with file, sandpaper, or grinder.

 

Files are old devices that have been used prior to electric grinders.  They work very well, but are slower than power tools.

 

Welcome aboard!  IFI is represented world wide, and your general location may help with getting better answers to your questions.  There may also be a group of blacksmiths who you can meet with near your location.  It would help if a location was put into your profile.

 

Phil

Thanks so much. Just a few more questions more questions, on the part I put in bold, shall I put sandpaper on the flat face of the hammer or use the sandpaper or on the forged piece of metal?
On the video I was watching on the subject, the guy also had a precision drill, do you think I could do the same type of cuts with a normal hand drill?
And lastly, just out of curiosity, but, if i go to the scrap yard and get a nicely sized piece of rusted metal and removed the rust and cleaned the outside part, do you think I will be able to make something out of that?

In the  knife section of this forum I covered how to forge a blade using real basic tools. It is listed under blade making 101

Thanks so much. Just a few more questions more questions, on the part I put in bold, shall I put sandpaper on the flat face of the hammer or use the sandpaper or on the forged piece of metal?
On the video I was watching on the subject, the guy also had a precision drill, do you think I could do the same type of cuts with a normal hand drill?
And lastly, just out of curiosity, but, if i go to the scrap yard and get a nicely sized piece of rusted metal and removed the rust and cleaned the outside part, do you think I will be able to make something out of that?

The hammer face should be dressed like a watch glass, flat in the very center, and curving more towards the edges. There is good information on dressing hammers and their peins in the "knife making class 100" section.

A drill press is a nice tool. I have a rather inexpensive model that I use regularly. I use a hand held electric drill, as well as hot and cold punches for making holes. The finish of the hole varies, bit so does the purpose of the hole...

Scrapyards that sell to the public are wonderful places (I wish I had one near me). A large piece of steel can be an anvil. Sheet metal can become a forge table, or other work surface, or material to create out of. Bar stock can make decorative items and tools. Car parts like springs (coil or leaf) can become tools or blades since it hardens well (typically coil and leaf springs from cars and trucks are 5160, but not always) You can frequently find complete assemblies such as blowers, or even machines that just need some cleanup.

There are sound arguments for buying new steel for items you will sell, but practice on scrap since you will make a bunch of scrap before you make good, nice things.

When selecting steel from the scrap stream, pay attention to coatings on the metal. Rusty metal, with nice "red" rust is generally safe, but some coatings are quite dangerous. Metal fume fever is not pleasant.

"If it don't rust, don't trust."

Phil

A 1.5-2 kg sledge hammer head makes amvery sericible anvil for the beginner, combined with a heavy truck axil for a bick.
Lots of information here on making and adapting tools, just look and ask for clarification, English isn't easy to understand, even for native speakers.
Another source for the beginner are the extension services for Africa, south America and Asia. Some of the information is a bit off, but most is solid as to making and improvising tools.
As to blowers, don't over look automotive heater blowers, a little imagination with a paint can and a soup can can make a serviceable blower.

There is an active Brazilian Knifemakers Society, http://www.sbccutelaria.org.br/ and one ABS Master Smith, www.rodrigosfreddo.com  plus many Journeymen and Apprentices.

 

Maybe you should look for a mentor or group closer to you for help. Nothing we can say or do in a year online would help you more than a few hours with a live person.

 

There is an active Brazilian Knifemakers Society, http://www.sbccutelaria.org.br/ and one ABS Master Smith, www.rodrigosfreddo.com  plus many Journeymen and Apprentices.

 

Maybe you should look for a mentor or group closer to you for help. Nothing we can say or do in a year online would help you more than a few hours with a live person.

 

 

I looks around, unfortunately, they only have locations far from mine (a few hundred km some are a thousand or more), I will be travelling by one or two soon so I'll try to talk to them, thanks.

A 1.5-2 kg sledge hammer head makes amvery sericible anvil for the beginner, combined with a heavy truck axil for a bick.
Lots of information here on making and adapting tools, just look and ask for clarification, English isn't easy to understand, even for native speakers.
Another source for the beginner are the extension services for Africa, south America and Asia. Some of the information is a bit off, but most is solid as to making and improvising tools.
As to blowers, don't over look automotive heater blowers, a little imagination with a paint can and a soup can can make a serviceable blower.

 

Thanks, some of my family members have a lot of junk laid around, I'm gonna try to find an old vacuum.

The hammer face should be dressed like a watch glass, flat in the very center, and curving more towards the edges. There is good information on dressing hammers and their peins in the "knife making class 100" section.

A drill press is a nice tool. I have a rather inexpensive model that I use regularly. I use a hand held electric drill, as well as hot and cold punches for making holes. The finish of the hole varies, bit so does the purpose of the hole...

Scrapyards that sell to the public are wonderful places (I wish I had one near me). A large piece of steel can be an anvil. Sheet metal can become a forge table, or other work surface, or material to create out of. Bar stock can make decorative items and tools. Car parts like springs (coil or leaf) can become tools or blades since it hardens well (typically coil and leaf springs from cars and trucks are 5160, but not always) You can frequently find complete assemblies such as blowers, or even machines that just need some cleanup.

There are sound arguments for buying new steel for items you will sell, but practice on scrap since you will make a bunch of scrap before you make good, nice things.

When selecting steel from the scrap stream, pay attention to coatings on the metal. Rusty metal, with nice "red" rust is generally safe, but some coatings are quite dangerous. Metal fume fever is not pleasant.

"If it don't rust, don't trust."

Phil

 

Thanks for all the help Phil. I don't think the fumes will be much of a problem though, I plan on using a mask, not sure if it'll help much.

In the  knife section of this forum I covered how to forge a blade using real basic tools. It is listed under blade making 101

And again ,thanks to everyone for the help.

Mask? what will that do?  please read more before ya kill someone. Also Did you see this post ?  http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/23500-what-do-you-need-to-get-started-in-blacksmithing/

Mask? what will that do?  please read more before ya kill someone. Also Did you see this post ?  http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/23500-what-do-you-need-to-get-started-in-blacksmithing/

Fume masks, something like this:

i once wore a mask like that while working because my parents were concerned about coal dust, it lit on fire from the heat of my forge... not a good idea

One thing I haven't seen mentioned it the fuel you plan to use.  Since you speak of using a blower I gather solid fuel but there a a few minor differences if you chose coal (anthracite or bituminous) versus charcoal.  Charcoal needs less air and a hair dryer may provide too much for that fuel.  I haven't used anthracite but have read it takes constant air.

 

ron

that is a particulate filter, as in dust,  a glorified Kleenex that will do NOTHING against fumes. you really really need to read up.

that is a particulate filter, as in dust,  a glorified Kleenex that will do NOTHING against fumes. you really really need to read up.

 

One thing I haven't seen mentioned it the fuel you plan to use.  Since you speak of using a blower I gather solid fuel but there a a few minor differences if you chose coal (anthracite or bituminous) versus charcoal.  Charcoal needs less air and a hair dryer may provide too much for that fuel.  I haven't used anthracite but have read it takes constant air.

 

ron

I was planning on getting a hair dryer if I cannot find a vacuum, Anyways, there's this local charcoal company in a city nearby that has great charcoal. I plan on using that. As for the strength, you sure a hair dryer, even on low, can be too strong?

 

i once wore a mask like that while working because my parents were concerned about coal dust, it lit on fire from the heat of my forge... not a good idea

 

Oh, better stay away from that then, what are you using now instead?
Also, when I'm scavaging for metals, are there any specific metal parts that are galvanized or have zinc?

i don't use anything for a mask. just get used to it

DO NOT STAND IN THE SMOKE. DO NOT INHALE.

If you can see it, smell it, or taste it, it is not air. 

 

A mask is your last choice if you are in bad air. First choice would be to step back and get into good air.

A good book to read might be Wayne Goddard's book titled 50 Dollar Knife Shop. There are plenty

of youtube videos of professional smiths from around the world forging tools and agricultural implements with the most basic of set ups for ideas.

I was planning on getting a hair dryer if I cannot find a vacuum, Anyways, there's this local charcoal company in a city nearby that has great charcoal. I plan on using that. As for the strength, you sure a hair dryer, even on low, can be too strong?

 

 

Oh, better stay away from that then, what are you using now instead?
Also, when I'm scavaging for metals, are there any specific metal parts that are galvanized or have zinc?

 

 

I've never use a hair dryer, I was given a hand crank blower so no I'm not sure but I do know that charcoal takes a lot less air then coal having used both.  I can blow the charcoal out of the fire pot without trying with the hand crank.  It does depend some on the exact configuration of the forge.  If I were looking to use a hair dryer (or any electric fan) with charcoal I'd design in a blast gate to control the amount of air that gets to the fire.

 

As for galvanization, it has a particular grey tone that once you get use to becomes easy to spot.  As was mentioned, if it's rusty it should be ok.

 

ron

i don't use anything for a mask. just get used to it

Ah, OK. I was inicially planning on doing so, but when people started talking about the fumes I was in doubt.

 

DO NOT STAND IN THE SMOKE. DO NOT INHALE.

If you can see it, smell it, or taste it, it is not air. 

 

A mask is your last choice if you are in bad air. First choice would be to step back and get into good air.

Thanks.

 

A good book to read might be Wayne Goddard's book titled 50 Dollar Knife Shop. There are plenty

of youtube videos of professional smiths from around the world forging tools and agricultural implements with the most basic of set ups for ideas.

I'll look for it, I'll probably have to find an e-book version if I can (generally american books aren't shipped to Brazil).

 

I've never use a hair dryer, I was given a hand crank blower so no I'm not sure but I do know that charcoal takes a lot less air then coal having used both.  I can blow the charcoal out of the fire pot without trying with the hand crank.  It does depend some on the exact configuration of the forge.  If I were looking to use a hair dryer (or any electric fan) with charcoal I'd design in a blast gate to control the amount of air that gets to the fire.

 

As for galvanization, it has a particular grey tone that once you get use to becomes easy to spot.  As was mentioned, if it's rusty it should be ok.

 

ron

I'll check it out the day I make it, if it's too strong I'll make a gate, thanks.

Welcome aboard, glad to have you.

 

If you have a salvage yard you can buy from you can ask one of the guys there what galvanized look like and while you're at it ask what Cadmium plating looks like that is really toxic, far more so that zinc/galvanizing.

 

Do NOT skimp on eye protection, nothing is worth an eye. If necessary you can scrimp and save for a good pair of safety glasses and face shield but you'll have to work awfully hard at a well paying into the next life to buy one new eye. Got it? Protect those eyes!

 

Also don't stare into the fire, sure you need to keep watch on what the steel/iron is doing but do NOT stare into the fire. A good hot fire generates dangerous levels of IR (Infra Red) heat and it will cause cataracts which are darned expensive to correct if they can be corrected. Look often just don't stare at eh fire. I know it's hard not to stare at a fire of any kind and some it's okay like a camp fire but not a forge fire, they're just too hot.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

Welcome aboard, glad to have you.

 

If you have a salvage yard you can buy from you can ask one of the guys there what galvanized look like and while you're at it ask what Cadmium plating looks like that is really toxic, far more so that zinc/galvanizing.

 

Do NOT skimp on eye protection, nothing is worth an eye. If necessary you can scrimp and save for a good pair of safety glasses and face shield but you'll have to work awfully hard at a well paying into the next life to buy one new eye. Got it? Protect those eyes!

 

Also don't stare into the fire, sure you need to keep watch on what the steel/iron is doing but do NOT stare into the fire. A good hot fire generates dangerous levels of IR (Infra Red) heat and it will cause cataracts which are darned expensive to correct if they can be corrected. Look often just don't stare at eh fire. I know it's hard not to stare at a fire of any kind and some it's okay like a camp fire but not a forge fire, they're just too hot.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

Thanks, I'll ask them.

As for the eye protection, that's one of my first concerns (saftey in general). I got safety glasses already. And, just for curiosity, those welders helmet work well against IR, right? 

Modern welders helmets of shade 3 or higher will protect against both IR and UV (but there isn't much worry from UV emission from a forge).  At least that is the case in the U.S.  I can't talk about what may be available in your neck of the woods.

 

ron

there is  along detailed thread in teh safety section.