Sam Salvati Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 I liked the steel stand for the peddinghaus anvil so much I decided to also do a steel one for my Jymm Hoffman anvil also and to pull out some stops. Used some rebar for an industrial look (plus it was available) for the bracing, rectangle tube for the legs and I sacrificed the Brian Brazeal style block anvil to use as the top plate for this stand, which adds about 30 pounds and makes the whole thing very rigid. I wanted to have the stand be the same size as the base of the anvil to allow alot of room around the heel and horn. Kerry my boss suggested the skulls for the feet which I like alot. I was thinking of all kinds of things to put on it, tool holders, racks, bending fork, trays and shelves and little thingies, but then kind of streamlined it, one for a hammer, one for the hardy. I did concede to my brain and make an articulated arm, that can hold different kinds of things on it's end, I only had time tonight to make a little tray for it but I want to make a little T rest that can adjust up and down to act as a helper's hand, and some other things as I think of em. The arm has quite the reach, each arms is 7" making 14" straight out. Anyway, here is photos: about 20 pounds of steel block (left over top from the Brazeal block anvil) at furthest extension in the tippiest direction of the 3 leg stand, not even a wobble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 Sam, first off it is a great stand and should serve you well. I really like the holder for the hot cut that puts the cutting edge against metal and out of the way (think safety). The swing arm will serve you well for many uses, and is a great addition. What does bother me is the hold down bolts. In my humble opinion I would have reversed the arrangements and either welded a bolt to the hold down plate (on the bottom) or used a carriage bolt. The nut could have been adjusted by knocking the threads out of one nut (or sleeve) welded to the table and tightening with a second nut. This way there would be nothing to catch upon. All this could have been done from the inside (hole in the top of the stand) and been completely out of the way. The holding plate could have been hot set to the curve of the feet to give a more pleasant appearance, and look like it fit better. I am sure it is held down tightly with the two bolts, but I would have welded a small section of angle iron at each foot to prevent any wiggle room for the anvil. These could have been small and just to the top and contour of the anvil and not be noticed. One suggestion is that since you have the bracing already, use some expanded wire and make a shelf at/for the top bracing. You will find it useful for hardie tools etc. Which side is the primary position for the blacksmith? Why is the anvil flush with one side of the stand and off set about 1-1/2 ot 2 inches from the other side of the stand? Good job and it shows you put some thought into the project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted October 19, 2012 Author Share Posted October 19, 2012 Glenn, thanks! I see your point, but the idea for these mounts was convenience, but also I wanted there to be a clear path to the base plate through the hardy and pritchel holes, and locating things this way did so. You noticed the anvil was offset, this was to make an open space on the far side (i work horn to the right) for upsetting, like some anvils have an upsetting block. I need to source some expanded sheet for just that! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrnewberry Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 Sweet stand! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gaddis Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 NOT FAIR.....you put up a sheet of plywood so we could not see what kind of mess that is present in your shop. Very nice stand...really unusual foot patterns too. Where would someone get that idea? Maybe I have seen that picture somewhere. enjoy carry on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel.85 Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 Nice! Thats some thick plate its sitting one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 I was gonna say that if you had welded barrel (coupler) nuts onto the block instead of studs you could have bolted the anvil down and then when you unbolted the anvil there would be nothing above the surface of the base plate and you could still use it as a striker anvil as well. I would also turn your skull shaped feet around so you could drive a stake thru on of the eyes to cinch it down outdoors. The way you get around this set up will do some traveling and probably end up on a lawn sooner or later. One of the benefits of owning a lighter anvil is being able to travel with it. Really nice job Sam, I especially like the idea of offsetting the anvil so the base becomes a block for upsetting. I also think you`ll find that arm useful for more than just holding a tray. I made a support that extended up to be level with the working surface of the anvil and it served me well as a work support for longer pieces. Saved arm strength and kept vibrations to a minimum as well. If you do detail work at the anvil using it as a worklight holder lets you put the light where you need it. When your eyes get as old as mine you appreciate all the light you can get. I also found having small locking knobs threaded in at the arm`s pivot points keep things from wandering away when you`re hammering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 An anvil, on an anvil with another anvil...pretty cool. My only suggestion (besides the already re-hashed bolt) is a second socket for the arm sorta under the horn. Choices are nice. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 Recursion: see recursion. should have cut the baseplate into a skull too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 Very nice work, Sam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted October 20, 2012 Author Share Posted October 20, 2012 Thanks Fellas! Dave, not much mess there ;) Bob, I see what you are saying but why not use the perfectly good anvil to strike on? LOL. I will make that exact tool you say, an adjustable t shaped rest to act as a 3rd hand. Might try one with a vice grip on the end too. I like your idea of adding lock screws to each pivot also! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John McPherson Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 Sam, great job with a lot of flair, as usual. I think that the skulls are oriented in the right direction, put a spike thru the eye, but make it look like a patch, or maybe a dagger for dirt! I find that anchors outside the support triangle will eventually be toe stubbers, inside is better. This thread has really got me considering the idea of a flat Brazeal style striking anvil as the base for a small travel anvil for portable demos. Bob, that is pure genius with the barrel nuts welded low on the sides. That is why I love this place, the advancement of the art thru sharing ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted October 20, 2012 Author Share Posted October 20, 2012 Thanks John! When orienting the skulls I thought the same thing, faced out would be more stable but a horrible toe stubber/trip hazard. The stands open enough too I think that spikeing in through the eyes or nose is totally doable. I love the idea of a patch or dagger hilted stake!!! I never thought of this as having the brazeal anvil for the base, I had made a brazeal anvil like his tall block anvil with the diferent die shapes ground in, but cut that up to make the base for this anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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