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I Forge Iron

25 LG Project


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It's been sitting 25 years in a dry garage and is ready for a makeover and a motor. Picked it up for a decent price and I plan to flip it after I've had my fun.....It won't take much though, It's in real nice shape for an older one... LG ser # 2588

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The good news; the ways, front and back are crisp, the same with the hammer V's and the upper die receiver is nice..... The soso news is the bearings both clutch and mains need repored, the bottom die receiver base needs to be built up and re surfaced.......And the bad is the links need replaced and the ram needs an interior rebuild where the T's ride so Sid will happily relieve me of about $300....not too bad..... :mellow:
I plan to cut the spokes out of pulley (lg3) and machine it (even though I'm not qualified) to heat shrink onto the idler drum so it will be larger in diamiter making it easier to attain the desired speed and the belt won't ride on the inner flat surface........I reckon the shaft was 1.625 new and now it's 1.610 (front and back) do I need to machine a dummy shaft to 1.610 to re pour the mains?
Any pointers appreciated....mb

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Thanks for the link Bob. Don, the shaft seems to be OOR not more than about .009 max here and there. I like the dummy shaft method but may try it with the shaft since I can easily lift it strait up and down easily with my hoist....
What is the target + - bpm on these and I believe a 1hp minimum motor is the correct choice, right?
Waiting now for Sid to do his thing on the ram toggle link seats and the new links....Couldn't see those through the crud otherwise I would have stood firm on a lower offer but $300 + shipping won't break the bank.....

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A long lost buddy of mine showed up out of the blue yesterday after 25 years and happened to have a copy of R Kern's book ''The Little Giant Power Hammer'' which he droped off today.... B) .....
The pic shows the old spoked pully with the innards removed and one of the sheaves sliced off as well. The single sheave on top of the idler is ready to be bored slightly under the idler OD and shrunk onto it. I have a 2.5'' cast iron motor pully that will give me an estimated 383 BPM or if I want to lower that I'll need to buy a smaller machined steel pully. The book sez 375 BPM but I think the 2.5'' will be fine....any thoughts?.....

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Mine runs on a 2.5 cast iron pulley. I use 2 'B' vee belts tho I think 1 would be fine. My belts run on the outside surface of the idler. On my hammer the idler/clutch is to the rear of the machine. I worked out the speed years ago when I set it up. Think it was in the 350 rpm range. My motor is mounted low on the right side. Will take pictures tomorrow if you want.

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Mine runs on a 2.5 cast iron pulley. I use 2 'B' vee belts tho I think 1 would be fine. My belts run on the outside surface of the idler. On my hammer the idler/clutch is to the rear of the machine. I worked out the speed years ago when I set it up. Think it was in the 350 rpm range. My motor is mounted low on the right side. Will take pictures tomorrow if you want.


Thanks I'd love to see your pix...... If I ran a 2.5'' pulley with a 10'' idler I'd be at 483 BPM, no buneo. The 11.375'' sheave mounted on the idler is almost like a jackshaft only allot less labor intensive and cheaper. I've done this on a Perfect ages ago and it worked fine. Just one hitch with the LG is the idler moves allot father to engage the clutch where the Perfect maybe moves maybe 1/16''. I'm hoping to keep the idler travel to a minium so it doesn't deflect the belt too much.
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Would you ever consider sheet metal work under one? Thumbnail die...


Would I? Probly not, but I'm sure it could be done. I know what thumbnail dies look like and they're supposed the shrink the metal. How this is accomplished by hammering and what it looks like after that is a mystery to me.........
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make a new shaft and make it longer so you can mount the pulley and clutch outside the frame at the back. That will make it much eaiser to install and service the clutch and you don't have to take the shaft out to change the belt. use the new shaft to pour the bearings before you assemble the fly wheel

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I miced it again so I could rotate the mic instead opening and closing the tool here and there on the shaft and it came up good. Not even .003 out of round.... :wub: ....I like your idea Peacock but i'm gonna have to pass on that one this time, I'm opting for a Browning ''Griptwist'' belt which can be parted so it won't need to have the shaft removed to change the belt.

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  • 4 weeks later...

What's the trim color going to be?
Frosty the lucky



Trim color.... :angry:....I gots to show you no stinking trim color!!
I was thinking of some gay yellow pinstriping though.... :wub: .....and yellow of course for the foot treadle.......

The spring attachment that pulls the treadle up and transfers the energy to the clutch arm by pushing it up through a spindley 5/16'' rod just seemed bass ackwards to me so I aranged differently as shown. The old arangment also multiplies whatever slop there is in the linkage because it pushed up and pulled down, anyway I like this better and I don't have to fight assembling it.....Think I'll go to a stouter spring though

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