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I Forge Iron

made a hammer today


ironsmith

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Under the hammer, how do you keep the punch from sticking in the hammer blank when you are pounding it under a power hammer? What type of hammer and what type of throw does it have?
Are you still practicing the hit and remove the punch, process like Brian uses with a striker?

I have and air hammer with a 12-inch throw. I need to weld my extra set of hump tools to some bottom dies, make a cupping die, and figure out a way to punch under the PH.

Like Brian says, a punch press is the ideal, but that's not in the list of shop additions anytime soon here.....in the mean time, I'd like to be able to make a few hammers, and I don't have a striker!

How much does that hammer weigh?

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the punch pictured is the one i used, it took three heats to punch the eye. I did not have any problem with the punch sticking too badly. my "biscuit" did not come out to well so well and I had a ragged edge inside the hole. the punch was made from H-13 and welded to a mild steel handle. I to need to make a cupping tool for my hammer.

Also I have a clay spencer tire hammer, I used just a piece of half inch plate with no die welded to it for the clearance i needed to punch the hole.
hope that helps.
I need to weigh the hammer but i am guessing about 2 lbs?



Are you still practicing the hit and remove the punch, process like Brian uses with a striker?



When i punched the hole i just went a few hits took it out to check and went back at it, no need to hit and move if your straight and level on a power hammer, it seems but I am a newb at it so....
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I made some similar cheeking dies for my 110 lb home made utility hammer.
Brian also gifted me a cupping die that I welded tabs on so that I can slip it over the bottom die of my iron kiss 75 and remove it quickly to accommodate shocking the punch free if necessary.
My punch is made from 5160 and I cool it after every couple hits as I would with a striker.

Another tip Brian taught me was to slightly square the hammer stock prior to punching. It made a big difference for me.

I would like to try and make some h13 punches. Did you do anything special when welding it to the mild handle?

post-15732-0-22400200-1347820211_thumb.j

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I watched Brian and Kaenan punch through 2 1/2 round stock Saturday by hand. Remember that the first punch is quite fat in appearance as well as being a bit stubby. So that means it is very strong. After a pretty darn deep penetration he switches over to a more slim design. The thinner, slimmer design has much less resistance going into the metal because most of the sides are not in contact !

After the hole has been made then the drifting process begins for the basic eye form.

BTW that was for a flatter that weighs about 6 1/4 pounds. They made two in one day out of some tough mystery metal.

They still used a cupping tool along with the flatters...and a whole lot-a-banging.

Carry on

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That seems to be a really neat hammer! Almost kind of antique-like. Anyway it should become a private treasure and to be well used by yourself. Yeah Brian may make a prettier one, but yours looks just fine to me.

If you have any kids they too will want to keep that thing as a special memory object.

Carry on

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nice looking hammer. I make a hammer by myself in an hour Today I used a piece of A-2 to make a slitter and did it under the power hammer it worked well the key is having a big surface to come in contact with the top die, to thin and it wants to roll out to one side. most of my big hammers are 4-5 pounds 4340 2 1/4" dia. I have an old Champion I am working on spring dies to separate out the faces, but that is really not my style.

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I have welded alot of tool steel to mild handles. All of them H 13 or S 7. Many of my first attempts cracked at the weld, some did not. i solved this by this simple method: I take the pieces in place and then heat to a dull red. i weld together and heat to non magnetic,,Into a bucket of vermiculite til the next day. I remove and heat just the working end in a coal fire until non magnetic. Then air cool until cool to the touch. My handles were for hand work and welded to the sides of the tools. This method leaves the struck end softer than my hammer and the working end right for its task.

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I like the hammer and I have several punches I used origionally under a tire hamer and how have a 50 lb little giant in the same place. If I could make one critique of your punch I would say to make it larger so that the cutting edge is not wider than the stock behind it. I made one like that a few yeas ago and all was going well until I gave it a hit while it was not straight in the hole I was making and the metal closed up behind the cutting edge and I almost didn't get it back out. That was under the power hammer and one hit can really get it stuck. If it is wider behind the cutting edge the metal can't close up behind it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

They look to me to be much larger than the posted weights...

I bet they will be a nice collection when completed.

Now I am looking forward to making some hammers under my power hammer, since friends have given me the information about adjusting my hammer. It sure works better now. But first will be to make a flatter for the powerhammer


carry on

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