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I Forge Iron

Sledge hammer Chaos


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Me and one of my helpers were working at the forge this morning. We were double striking with 12 lb. sledge hammers upsetting a hardy tool into my 400 lb. Hay budden with a 1-3/8" hardy hole. We were hitting as hard and fast as we could because the bottom edge was getting cold faster then the top where it was in contact with the anvil. This was causing the forging to mushroom on the top. Out of the blue the my helpers sledge hammer head comes flying at me. He was making good clean blows and there was no damage to the handle it seemed to be in good condition by all appearances. It was strange time seemed to slow down. I twisted to the side just missing the flying hammer head with just enough time to hear it ringing as it hit the floor. The weird thing was the handle had snapped off inside the head right in the middle. The wood seemed a bit dry but not rotten I guess the wood was just a bit old and not up to the task. I guess the moral of the story is if you really use your tools replace old handles even if you think they look good. I probally would have broken a rib or two if it had hit me in the chest.

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Once I was watching Tal Harris and some of the other regulars team forge at a NC tractor show, when the sledge head flew off and bounced off the wall ten feet behind the tongs guy. Everybody stopped and checked the heads on the rest of the hammers. There were spectators on the other two sides......

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Not smithing but sledges, Had two equipment operators driving in track pins on the 322 cat loader. One was hitting the link the other the pin to keep the link from spreading. Missed blow and the one guy took it full in the chest. Knocked the wind out of him but nothing broken wonder of wonders it didn't drop him dead. A lot of thump behind even an 8lber. Especially when wielded by loggers with more brawn than brains. Things were left to us mechanics a little more after that. finesse with die griders makes thngs easier...

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Speculation on my part, but this type of brittle failure seems to only be a problem on kiln-dried wooden handles. Standing the heads in a garage sale bread loaf pan of mineral oil or similar product for a week or two after installing the handle works for me.

I had several brand new Craftsman handles break on claw hammers in the '70s when I did concrete forms, always pulling nails, never driving them. Sears got tired of seeing me. The problem only went away when I switched to all steel claw hammers, which are still perfect today. The proper use of a cat's paw and small pry bay in the tool belt helped as well.

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I've used this stuff to good effect. It can usually be found at the HW store....

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=wood%20joint%20swelling&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CCoQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.westernwooddoctor.com%2Fchairloc.htm&ei=nRhGUIztGomSiAKL64HwBA&usg=AFQjCNEdx_7CVBTV3yyZnH5mvZjQXo1veQ

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I happened to recall a old Hershel House video (really, VHS) where he talked about 'smithing under the shade of a tree on a hot summer day. As he was forging hot and heavy, the hammer head came loose and went straight up. He could hear it coming back down thru the limbs as he sprinted for daylight.

I guess that goes to show if you do anything long enough, something​ will go wrong. We just need to anticipate, and have contingency plans and an exit strategy. Good reflexes don't hurt, either.

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  • 3 weeks later...

My opinion... the stress of use combined with the compression of the wood's cells when the wedge is driven in, doesn't do that joint any good. Add in age and dry-rot and you've got a recipe for a break. Any time I get an old tool in, the old handle gets a good long soak in thinned linseed oil to, hopefully, rejuvenate the wood. I mix 1 part of Boiled Linseed Oil with 3 parts thinner to get something that's really watery. The thinner it is, the easier it is to penetrate the pores of the wood and get in deep.

Glad you weren't hurt.

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