I'd like to make an adjustable fuller for up to 3 or 4" stock that fits in the hardie hole.
Would you make any changes to this list?

A 1/2" thick plate for a base.
2 pieces of upright 1/4 x 1" x 1" angle iron that gets welded to the base.
A piece of 1/2" x 3" x 4" that acts as the bottom fuller. It is also welded to the base and in between the two pieces of angle.

The top fuller section is 1/2" x 3 x 5 and has a hole drilled in the top corner.
The two angles will also have holes drilled at different heights for the top fuller to be adjustable.
Maybe a heavy clevis pin could be used for quick adjustments.

I've seen this style before but can't find it.

one thing i wouldn't do is weld in the bottom "die" fuller. that way you can change it out for a butcher or other radii fullers. also i have seen it recommended to use a buisness card as a shim for fitting the angle iron pieces. that way you will have the clearance to remove the dies easily and still be good on their alignment.

Hi Grundsau, Try a search using "Guillotine tool"

This is what I came up with







The dies are interchangeable and I have at this point 5 differing dies for different jobs

Ironsmith, good point. It could get bolted on.

John B, that did the trick.

Tim, I saw that recently. Impressive! But I need something simple this time around.

Here is a similar setup:

I believe thats what is called a chop fuller

The guillotine fuller in the pick looks good but I have done mine a little different. I would use the angle iron vertically and make sure it is wide enough to keep the upper parallel to the lower. I also weld a block to the top to hit on so I don't wear out the blade, the block is directly over the area I most use to hit on so I don't put too much torque on the pivot bolt. And put a large radius lengthwise where you will do most of your work and it will tend to keep the work under the tool instead of trying to spit it out the end. When mine is in the lowest hole the blades of the guillotine they are parallel and the radius gives about 1/3 inch clearance between top and bottom. I have made all my blades out of leaf springs in the as forged state (after straightening)

Image hog that I am, here a few stolen gleaned from the 'net. Uri Hofi, Gene Chapman, Poor Boy Tools on Ebay.

Whoa, Tim! That is a serious looking bit of kit. I like it! Might have to make meself one....

Is there a reason you couldn't use that uber-adjustable Hofi jig to hold top and bottom tools instead of just a shop-built fullerer?

I love the infinite adjustability of the collar/shaft, and am thinking that the bottom part could have a hole that matches your hardy hole so you could slip whatever hardy you liked in it. Maybe use a set screw to tighten the two together.

Then the pivoting arm could have a similar arrangement where a top tool, or an inverted bottom tool could be fixed in an arm, again held fast with a set screw.

Am I seeing something wrong? Might just be an awesome option for a shop that doesn't have a helper...

Whoa, Tim! That is a serious looking bit of kit. I like it! Might have to make meself one....

Thanks, Makes life a lot easier when you only have two hands and your teeth.

Good idea to put the impact point over the sweet spot of the anvil if you are going to be working 3-4" stock!