plane_crazzy Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 I have an old anvil that has been beaten up over the years. I am hoping to build it up and grind it down to usable condition for some people who want to try out blacksmithing and maybe getting involved in it. But I dont want my good anvil beaten up in the process....I have talked to a couple people knowledgeable in this sorta thing and they said I want to use high impact welding rods. What they forgot to mention is where I would find such a thing. Any help on that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 I would strongly suggest looking up the Robb Gunter method of anvil repair and following it---including the rods mentioned. As to source of rods I would go to a good welding supply store, there are several in Columbus OH I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
on-one-wheel Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 I'v had good luck using " CASTCRAFT " from cigweld to build up cast..... also used "WELDALL" wich are not recomended for carst iron, to weld a set of broken 60' stilsons that were operated by a hydralic ram with great sucsess Weldalls leave a stainless looking weld. Personally Id try the castcraft on preheated parent metal. My mate from the foundry uses rods high in nickle to repair some castings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
on-one-wheel Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 I'v had good luck using " CASTCRAFT " from cigweld to build up cast..... also used "WELDALL" wich are not recomended for carst iron, to weld a set of broken 60' stilsons that were operated by a hydralic ram with great sucsess Weldalls leave a stainless looking weld. Personally Id try the castcraft on preheated parent metal. My mate from the foundry uses rods high in nickle to repair some castings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
on-one-wheel Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 I'v had good luck using " CASTCRAFT " from cigweld to build up cast..... also used "WELDALL" wich are not recomended for carst iron, to weld a set of broken 60' stilsons that were operated by a hydralic ram with great sucsess Weldalls leave a stainless looking weld. Personally Id try the castcraft on preheated parent metal. My mate from the foundry uses rods high in nickle to repair some castings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 http://www.iforgeiron.com/page/index.html/_/blueprints/100-series/bp0101-anvil-repair-r330 another set of directions. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironwolfforgeca Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 you can also use 7018 arc rod or next step up is 11018 on steel anvil a good chap build up rod will last the time test I know many repaired this way To do it right Rod Gunter is the way to go 1105 rod I have done over 45 anvils that way Steve's Welding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWHII Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 I like to use 309 stainless steel filler rod for TIG, on my anvil repairs and build up. I have had very good results with it. The Rob gunter method is also a great way to go although the cast and hard surfacing electrodes can be pricey. Once you are armed with the info and type of electrodes or filler rods you need go to your local welding supplier and they should be able to order what you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 I have done a few anvils using 7018 rod. I weld a spot less than an inch in length and the pein it really well, that reduces stress and work hardens the weld. This rod comes in two types: one for dc welder and one for ac welder. Make sure you get the one you are set up to weld with. If your anvil has a welded on top plate or is cast iron youi may wish to reconsider this whole project and leet the folks use it as is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 I have done a few anvils using 7018 rod. I weld a spot less than an inch in length and the pein it really well, that reduces stress and work hardens the weld. This rod comes in two types: one for dc welder and one for ac welder. Make sure you get the one you are set up to weld with. If your anvil has a welded on top plate or is cast iron youi may wish to reconsider this whole project and leet the folks use it as is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 I have done a few anvils using 7018 rod. I weld a spot less than an inch in length and the pein it really well, that reduces stress and work hardens the weld. This rod comes in two types: one for dc welder and one for ac welder. Make sure you get the one you are set up to weld with. If your anvil has a welded on top plate or is cast iron youi may wish to reconsider this whole project and leet the folks use it as is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Evans Posted August 14, 2012 Share Posted August 14, 2012 When you say beaten up what's the problem specifically? I have just come back from the BABA AGM where i seemed to spend most of the time wandering around the forge area trying to find a radius on the edge of an anvil like the one on mine at home in order to achieve a particular form! I hate new anvils with no soft edges, I have all sorts of different radii on the edges of mine, choose the one you need. If you want a sharp edge lay a block on the anvil or make up a square edged hardy tool. Mine anvil has a gentle hollow in the middle of the face which is just perfect for straightening and bending. Get to know the anvil's "faults" and celebrate them! So my vote is leave well alone, maybe grind a radius where you have a chip. If you must weld I have always repaired my anvils and power hammer pallets with 312 dissimilar metal rods, stick or TIG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted August 14, 2012 Share Posted August 14, 2012 Note that most "real" anvils are not made from cast iron and so cast iron rod is not the way to go. Pretty much only Fisher and it's poor cousin Vulcan anvils have a cast iron body with a steel face. Anvils without a steel face are ASO's and probably NOT WORTH REPAIRING! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plane_crazzy Posted August 14, 2012 Author Share Posted August 14, 2012 I will post a picture of it tonight or tomorrow morning so you can see what I am talking about. But it is pretty extensive damage. something a quick grind job isnt going to help. Thanks for the over whelming response already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plane_crazzy Posted August 16, 2012 Author Share Posted August 16, 2012 my apologies on taking so long to get the pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 Looks real. You will need to remove some of the face first as it is broken, but still attached. Do you have other views of this anvil? It appears to have a "grain" to the fracture which may indicate that it is blister steel, a form of wrought iron. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatfudd Posted August 16, 2012 Share Posted August 16, 2012 Yep that is a good candidate for a repair. 7018 works good if you are careful when you use it, even if it is somewhat work hardened it will still dent easily. 11018 is a pretty brittle rod and might cause issues with cracking. Castcraft is good and I have heard lots of good things about its use, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Castcraft is a cast iron product made by Cigweld. The same company (or conglomerate?) also makes Stoody, Thermodyne, and Victor. I doubt that anvil is cast anything. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatfudd Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Ah Thanks Phil, My error don't use Castcraft! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clinton Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 The amount of money you spend to properly repair that anvil will be more than its value in your location. I would just find another and sell that to someone for "Yard art" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Evers Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 I repaired a Vulcan (280 pounds) about 20 years ago using 7018.and sort of following Gunter's procedure. My preheat was a guesstimate. The damage did not go into the cast, it was due to someone using the anvil as a rest for cutting and cutting into the edge of the plate. That anvil is still good today. Don't know your welding skills, mine are minimal, but I used a copper strip to contain my puddle. Clamp it to the side of the anvil, weld from the top, grind smooth, lay the anvil on it's side and repeat with the copper clamped to the top face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plane_crazzy Posted August 17, 2012 Author Share Posted August 17, 2012 I thank everyone for their input. We will see if he decides that he wants to try it out and go from there. I just dont want him beating up my nice fisher if he does want to try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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