ya it is a cost thing for me at this point, for the cost of that i can get a new one that works....

good luck with it, maybe you could try to bead blast the parts individually? then reassemble.

Well...rough

The blades are sheet steel riveted onto the hub on that model. Making and installing new blades is trivial, if time consuming.

I would throw the gear box back in the oil for a week and then look at it again. I think it can be made to work, but it will take effort. Most of the gears are brass it looks, so those should clean up.

Phil

One more that you might try is the electrolytic approach. It's cheap and relatively easy. Here is a link to an instructable that shows the whole process.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/
Good luck.
Cliff

i can find washing soda anyware , i have always wonted to try that...

might try selling it for parts, always seems to be someone hunting for a donor machine and some of those gears look OK for someone willing to be enthusiastic in their removal.

Well, today I learned that Marvel's Mystery Oil appears to be nothing more than Automatic Transmission Fluid that has been considerably thinned.

I currently have my similarly rusted Buffalo "Climax" blower clamped in the shop vise, and the crank case slap full of ATF and Acetone. The blower was soaking for the last week in a bucket of water so I took my heat gun to her to dry her out. She was very dry and uncomfortably warm to the touch when I dumped the ATF/Acetone mix in there and I'm hoping that the heat will aid the capillary action and further draw the mix into the nooks and crannies. The issue seems to be where the shafts and bearings interface.

Good luck, Pug!

think im going to put it back together fill it with ATF and set it off to the side for a year or 2 , if some one wonts to buy it it will be for sale it if not one day it might free up or eat it away ! lol...

Don't give up, hoss! That home electrolysis works like a charm for removing rust, and I would gladly do it if my gears were exposed. It's a line-of-sight operation so you're in a perfect position to make it work for you.

Here's a thread where 01Tundra used it to remove rust from a blower pipe, and I'm sure you'd get similar results!



Before.....


After.....

i just got a odd tip from a fellow that im buying a blower from, he swears that you soak it in apple cider vinger for a few days, make sure its completely coverd in it, pull it out and and try turning it some. it should give a little, put it back in and repeat till its unfroze. he says that while its soaking all kinds of nasty gunk will come to the top and it will fizzle a bit. im gonna try it on a froze up champ 400 i got for next to nothing at a auction. he says this is a family trick (he is a 3rd or 4th gen smith) and he emphasized that only use apple cider vinager and dont use white vinager.

I've done the electrolosis route on rusted woodworking tools a bunch of times. Slow, but it works. Washing soda is right near the 20 Mule Team at the supermarket, in the detergent section.

its been in the electrolysis for a week now , looks good ,but no movement yet, going to take it out and put it in diesel next...

I'm keen to see how the electrolysis works for you. I tried the vinegar routine (apple cider) and it didn't work worth a flip. Still hoping that the thinned ATF will break through.

ill go take a pic here in a hour or so......it looks better... still no movement though...

Automatic transmission fluid mixed 50-50 with acetone is supposed to be the best penetrating oil.