Pug}{maN Posted July 8, 2012 Author Share Posted July 8, 2012 ya it is a cost thing for me at this point, for the cost of that i can get a new one that works.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironsmith Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 good luck with it, maybe you could try to bead blast the parts individually? then reassemble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 Well...rough The blades are sheet steel riveted onto the hub on that model. Making and installing new blades is trivial, if time consuming. I would throw the gear box back in the oil for a week and then look at it again. I think it can be made to work, but it will take effort. Most of the gears are brass it looks, so those should clean up. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iron e Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 One more that you might try is the electrolytic approach. It's cheap and relatively easy. Here is a link to an instructable that shows the whole process. http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/ Good luck. Cliff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pug}{maN Posted July 9, 2012 Author Share Posted July 9, 2012 i can find washing soda anyware , i have always wonted to try that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 might try selling it for parts, always seems to be someone hunting for a donor machine and some of those gears look OK for someone willing to be enthusiastic in their removal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Well, today I learned that Marvel's Mystery Oil appears to be nothing more than Automatic Transmission Fluid that has been considerably thinned. I currently have my similarly rusted Buffalo "Climax" blower clamped in the shop vise, and the crank case slap full of ATF and Acetone. The blower was soaking for the last week in a bucket of water so I took my heat gun to her to dry her out. She was very dry and uncomfortably warm to the touch when I dumped the ATF/Acetone mix in there and I'm hoping that the heat will aid the capillary action and further draw the mix into the nooks and crannies. The issue seems to be where the shafts and bearings interface. Good luck, Pug! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pug}{maN Posted July 10, 2012 Author Share Posted July 10, 2012 think im going to put it back together fill it with ATF and set it off to the side for a year or 2 , if some one wonts to buy it it will be for sale it if not one day it might free up or eat it away ! lol... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Don't give up, hoss! That home electrolysis works like a charm for removing rust, and I would gladly do it if my gears were exposed. It's a line-of-sight operation so you're in a perfect position to make it work for you. Here's a thread where 01Tundra used it to remove rust from a blower pipe, and I'm sure you'd get similar results! Before..... After..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hans138 Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 i just got a odd tip from a fellow that im buying a blower from, he swears that you soak it in apple cider vinger for a few days, make sure its completely coverd in it, pull it out and and try turning it some. it should give a little, put it back in and repeat till its unfroze. he says that while its soaking all kinds of nasty gunk will come to the top and it will fizzle a bit. im gonna try it on a froze up champ 400 i got for next to nothing at a auction. he says this is a family trick (he is a 3rd or 4th gen smith) and he emphasized that only use apple cider vinager and dont use white vinager. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 I've done the electrolosis route on rusted woodworking tools a bunch of times. Slow, but it works. Washing soda is right near the 20 Mule Team at the supermarket, in the detergent section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pug}{maN Posted July 21, 2012 Author Share Posted July 21, 2012 its been in the electrolysis for a week now , looks good ,but no movement yet, going to take it out and put it in diesel next... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 I'm keen to see how the electrolysis works for you. I tried the vinegar routine (apple cider) and it didn't work worth a flip. Still hoping that the thinned ATF will break through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pug}{maN Posted July 22, 2012 Author Share Posted July 22, 2012 ill go take a pic here in a hour or so......it looks better... still no movement though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hammer Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 Automatic transmission fluid mixed 50-50 with acetone is supposed to be the best penetrating oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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