Czech hammer handle...Resetting a handle-HELP

[keykeeper]

DISCLAIMER: PLEASE DON'T THINK I AM A TOTAL DUMBA** FOR THIS, AS I'VE REHANDLED SEVERAL HAMMERS LATELY!!!!!

Here's my problem....

I purchased an 800g Czech style hammer kit from Blacksmith's Depot for $10.00 Very well made head, looks great. The description said "Unfinished. Rework to make your own Hammer. Kit requires handle removal and re-installation. Handles are NOT secure in heads."

SO, I removed the handle after fighting with the super strength plastic like glue on the top part.

Then, I found inside the lower part of the hole some kind of wax-like substance and what looked like string. ????????

My question is two-fold: What's with the wax/string combination and How do I re-set this handle?

Any help is much appreciated!!!

[rthibeau]

It sounds like the wax/string stuff was used to fill in the hole because the handle wasn't the proper size/configuration and it was all sealed with the glue. Hence the disclaimer that the handle was not secure. Is the hole hourglass shaped? If so, make a handle to fit and wedge it as usual. If it is a straight sided hole, I would redrift the hole to make it hourglass shaped.

I've though about buying one just to see how good the head actually was for that price. Is it pretty well finished or a rough casting?

[keykeeper]

Thibeau: The hole is square. It tapers down to the size of the handle. It seems like the string/wax was a filler, as you said. There was no wedge at all, just the plastic stuff at the top.

The head is very well made. All that is needed is to do a little polishing of the face and pein to smooth the edges up a bit, so they don't leave marks. I think they are a great hammer for the money. I may try to do a re-set using epoxy as a filler and a wedge.

Maybe some users of these Czech style hammers could chime in with their views???

[clark-kentski]

Try that sikaflex that hofi uses .

[HWooldridge]

Household GOOP that you can get at Home Depot or Lowe's also works well and is the only "glue" I use on hammer heads aside from the normal wooden wedge. I seldom add metal wedges unless they get loose again but the GOOP works and holds up over a long period of time.

[Ron Hicks]

Sounds like the handle is not big enough for the head-I havent ever use glue on a hammer handles and have fixed a few old hammers.
In BP Jr has a demo on handles and is the way I do it also.

All the new hammers I have bought seems the handles all come lose.
Something that might help once you get your handle in is soaking the head in linseed oil for a week.

I looked at the hammers 1070 ht steel thats a good deal I thought. They have a Sweedish pattern also. I look at the same ones with good handles $50.00
I think I can do my own handle for $40.00

[the_sandy_creek_forge]

I have no personal experience with epoxy so I can't say one way or the other, but I do know that those circular steel wedges are not an answer. I tried one and was thoroughly dissatisfied with the results (the head was loose on the handle within a few days of heavy use). There is a reason my father, and his father, and his father, and his father, etc. used the wooden wedge then straight steel wedge....It Works! Also, it seems as though newer hammers that don't come with the round wedge (especially HF and other such brands) don't even use a wooden wedge. They just spike a steel wedge in and call it that.

As an aside, always make sure when the handle is in the eye of the hammer that the grain of the wood is running parallel with the head (the grain is pointing towards the pein and the face, NOT towards the sides) it makes a world of difference in handle life. (Same goes for axes, adzes, etc.)

-Aaron @ the SCF

[Ron Hicks]

I dont think I like the conical wedges -I have a Peddinghaus hammer with one I need to rehandle,I cant keep the head tight wedge keeps backing out.

[Sam Salvati]

COol, I will have to try that GOOP thing:D.

[keykeeper]

Ron: I bought the swedish one also. Haven't tore into it yet. The level of finish on the czech hammer is better, IMHO.

Everyone else: Thanks so far for the tips. Will let you know what works for this.

By the way, I am in no way complaining or putting these products down. For the price, I have no problem spending the time to rehandle them. They are marked OCP, I think that is OFF CENTER PRODUCTS mark, have heard a lot about their tongs, so these hammers should work good once handled up.

[skunkriv]

Off Center tongs are made in the USA

[Glenn]

I have always shaped the wood fit the hole in the hammer head, then double wedged (wood followed by steel) to keep the handle in place.

There have been times when the wedges wanted to work loose for what ever reason, and I have used glue to secure the wood wedge into the wood handle, and applying glue to the metal wedge. None of these have failed so I can not report on how secure they are over time.

[DocsMachine]

Over the past year or so, I've rehandled about a dozen hammers, ranging from 5-oz ballpeens up to a 4-lb hand sledge. My technique is a little involved and uses epoxy, but has so far proven all but indestructable.

First, I degrease the hole in the head, and use a Dremel with an abrasive drum to deburr it a bit, especially around the hole where the handle's shoulder will rest. (Removing sharp edges so the wood doesn't get cut.) The abrasive also helps remove rust, paint and scale so the adhesive can make a firm bond.

Then I trim the handle to fit. I typically use premade hickory handles from the local hardware store- they have a fine selection and they're inexpensive. I make the fit tight, but not excessively so.

Next, I slather the hole and the handle with JB Weld epoxy, trying to get some inside the premade slot of the wood wedge as well. Slip the head on and tamp it firm. The JB gets messy, but if you wear some cheap surgical type gloves and keep a little spray brake cleaner on hand, it's controllable. (The brake cleaner and/or carb cleaner also works to degrease the hole, a recommended step.)

I'll then saw off any extra handle above the head, and drive in the wedges. JB takes an half hour or so to start to set, depending on the temperature and your mixing ratio, so you have a little time. Don't rush.

The wedges will possibly split the wood, so I make sure the JB epoxy is worked down into any voids or cracks.

Once it's cured overnight (I leave mine in the warm furnace room in the house, as the heat helps the epoxy to cure) I'll saw any remainder off, and belt-sand it down to flush with the head. Last, I'll "seal" the end-grain of the wood with SuperGlue, which soaks in and helps firm up any cracks or splits.

The sealed wood is prevented from drying out, and the epoxy fills any minute voids or gaps, so the wood has no room to work loose. The rest of the handle is already sealed with something, possibly a spray polyurethane of some sort, applied at the factory.

Doc.

[blacksmithtech]

Keykeeper,

I bought one of those hammer kits a couple of years ago.

I took a hardware store handle and ground it to the shape I like and used 2 part epoxy to set the handle. No wedges.

Made a nice little hammer and it has not come loose yet. Try it out and if it doesn't work right just hammer or drill it out and try something else.

Take care -

[Sam Salvati]

Ron: I bought the swedish one also. Haven't tore into it yet. The level of finish on the czech hammer is better, IMHO.

Everyone else: Thanks so far for the tips. Will let you know what works for this.

By the way, I am in no way complaining or putting these products down. For the price, I have no problem spending the time to rehandle them. They are marked OCP, I think that is OFF CENTER PRODUCTS mark, have heard a lot about their tongs, so these hammers should work good once handled up.

OH WOW the Off Center tongs are AMAZING! I would gladly do almost anything for a nice set of them, they are a treat to work with, tough, reliable, very comfortable in the hande, as well as light. They hold things VERY firmly, and one pair, the way the hold things, can hold many other things than they're designated size. I would definately recommend buying some, I used them during my apprenticeship, and wish I had snatched a few before I left:D:D:D:D.

[keykeeper]

Ok, thought I would update everyone on this topic.

Yesterday evening, I reset the handle using the GOOP method. It was generously applied, then the handle was drove into place. I also applied enough goop to the top of the eye/handle area to fill it in smoothly. It is curing as I type this. By the directions on the package, 72 hours will produce a good cure. By this weekend, the hammer should be in use.

I will let you guys know if this method works for this hammer.

Thanks.

[gerald]

Gorilla Glue seems to work well in anchoring the wooden and steel wedges.

[Jeremiah]

Key, I am using that same hammer right now. I was trying it out as bought and after using it for a couple of hours the head flew off (I knew this would happen:) ) so i cleaned the handle up with a draw knife and put wedges in it. Soon after it was given a good reshaping and polishing because for me the edges on the face were to sharp, and there was not enough "roundness" on the face to suit me. The head is still tight today and I really like the weight and feel of the hammer.

[Pault17]

Thanks for the tips. I ordered a czech one and a swedish one. I may have addicted my little brother to banging iron and thought I would give him a hammer as a gift. Now I just have to get them and see which one is more comfortable. Maybe even give him a pair of tongs. who knows

[Pault17]

AM,
I actually just finished a new rough set of tongs. I have no Idea what type they would be, but they hold 1/2 inch square both flat and on edge.I guess they would do well with round as well.I'll add pics a little later.

[keykeeper]

Ok, handle is in. It works! I banged on a stump with it hard to see if it would come loose. The Goop has a little give to it, and seems to absorb some shock. I'll try to get some pics up soon.

Pault17: You won't be disappointed, for the money.

aaron