Ozark Nick Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 So I tried my hand at an s-hook today.I formed the one side of the hook (towards the bottom of the photo). Then I tried to do the twist.Next time I think I'll cut it to length, scroll the tips, then do the twist, then form both hooks.Actually I probably just need to wait till I get a decent vise to do twists. Did this one with two pairs of pliers, are there any other methods for twists without a vise?Also, can't wait to get a real anvil. Though I might have found one.Thanks! PS - Finished this with WD40 since that's about all I had available, seemed to work ok. Didn't turn the can into a flame thrower, though for future use I might start buying it in bulk cans with a hand operated sprayer (non-aerosol). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Nice job! Without an anvil horn, it would be very difficult for a beginner to get a good circle hook on each end. For the available tools you had, you did a good first S-hook. Be sure to keep it! When I make S-hooks, I do the twist after the hooks are formed. Which way to do it is a personal preference thing. It would probably be easier for you to do so prior to making the hooks. There is nothing wrong with using two pair of pliers to make the twist. A vise is easier, but use what you have until you can find one. It is going to be much harder to keep things straight when you are using two pliers, but that just means that when you finish twisting, you'll need to tap on it until it is straight. WD-40 gives a nice finished look, but don't expect it to keep it from rusting. Vegitable oil, parafin wax, bees wax, and linseed oil are all good finishes. Wal-Mart has all of those but the bees-wax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 P.S. WELCOME TO I FORGE IRON! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozark Nick Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 Nice job! Without an anvil horn, it would be very difficult for a beginner to get a good circle hook on each end. For the available tools you had, you did a good first S-hook. Be sure to keep it! When I make S-hooks, I do the twist after the hooks are formed. Which way to do it is a personal preference thing. It would probably be easier for you to do so prior to making the hooks. There is nothing wrong with using two pair of pliers to make the twist. A vise is easier, but use what you have until you can find one. It is going to be much harder to keep things straight when you are using two pliers, but that just means that when you finish twisting, you'll need to tap on it until it is straight. WD-40 gives a nice finished look, but don't expect it to keep it from rusting. Vegitable oil, parafin wax, bees wax, and linseed oil are all good finishes. Wal-Mart has all of those but the bees-wax. That's disappointing about the WD-40 not keeping the rust off, I thought I'd read somewhere that it would. As for keeping it ... my grandmother was over for a visit and I made it specifically for her so it's already gone! I've got plenty of photos though. :D For the finish, I just laid the finished piece in the charcoal fire with the blower off. I let it stay in there till it was too hot to touch then wire brushed it and sprayed the wd40 on then wiped off with a rag (did that like three times). Is that right? Seems like it's hard to find info about how to finish stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozark Nick Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 P.S. WELCOME TO I FORGE IRON! LOL! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 WD40 is mostly kerosene, so the coating is rather thin, and WD40 will tend to evaporate away over a fairly short time. Any oil finish will wear off quickly if used out doors, but thicker finishes last much longer. If you put a little veg oil on a cotton rag (terry cloth) and work the rag on the part at a low black heat you can get a very nice glossy black finish, and the rag gives a better finish as it gets used. If the heat is right the rag lasts a long time, if too hot the rag burns up a tiny bit each time and gets holes. Welcome aboard. Nice looking first hook. It is possible to turn nice hooks without a round horn or mandrel, but it is much less easy. For putting in twists in smaller work any type of vise will work, even a smaller bench vise (which is nice to have at times for sawing and filing) but you don't want to be hammering on a bench vise, so you will want a post vise. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozark Nick Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 WD40 is mostly kerosene, so the coating is rather thin, and WD40 will tend to evaporate away over a fairly short time. Any oil finish will wear off quickly if used out doors, but thicker finishes last much longer. If you put a little veg oil on a cotton rag (terry cloth) and work the rag on the part at a low black heat you can get a very nice glossy black finish, and the rag gives a better finish as it gets used. If the heat is right the rag lasts a long time, if too hot the rag burns up a tiny bit each time and gets holes. Welcome aboard. Nice looking first hook. It is possible to turn nice hooks without a round horn or mandrel, but it is much less easy. For putting in twists in smaller work any type of vise will work, even a smaller bench vise (which is nice to have at times for sawing and filing) but you don't want to be hammering on a bench vise, so you will want a post vise. Phil I suppose I will just stick with veggie oil. Didn't want to use up what we had on hand for cooking, I'll have to buy a bottle of my own! I wish I knew someone local who kept bees and I could get local beeswax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokin' Coke Forge Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Hi, and welcome. You should be able to find beeswax at your local arts & crafts supply store. I know that Michaels and AC Moore both sell it. Another popular finish is made with equal parts beeswax, boiled linseed oil, and turpentine or mineral spirits. Gently melt the three together, then pour into a metal container and let solidify. I like to rub it on the finished piece while still at a black heat, although you can apply it cold as well. I've also found that this finish also works well for waterproofing my leather boots! Enjoy - Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLD Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Nick try making the hook on each end first. Facing them towrds each other, This lets you see that each side is similar in size. then do your twist, evening the hooks between your tongs and vise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elemental Metal Creations Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 If you can get an inexpensive pipe clamp you can clamp it onto the side or face of your RR track and use it for a bending jig or horn. Just to be sure to clamp it as solid as you can and don't hit on it to hard it hurts if it comes loose and smacks you. Don't ask how I know! ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric sprado Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Johnsons Paste Wax or Bowling alley Wax are some of blacksmith favorites. Get some REALLY cheap chipping brushes at the paintbrush store and apply while piece is still a black heat. Wipe off excess with a rag. Last a LONG LONG time!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maillemaker Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 I make my s-hooks by drawing out, curling the end, then taking a piece of pipe and a pair of vicegrips and bending the steel around the pipe. Comes out perfect every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieryFurnace Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Try an internet for bee keeping associations. More-n-likely there is someone pretty close to you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Nice Job!....... A rule of thumb when making tapers and curls is to make the taper as even and smooth as possible. If your taper is not a smooth progression it will kink and bend where you don't want it to. When the taper is nice and gradual to the point it will roll up with the hammer without the need for pliers, forms etc....Try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozark Nick Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 Thanks for the comments and advice! Hopefully have some time to try more this weekend. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozark Nick Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 Johnsons Paste Wax or Bowling alley Wax are some of blacksmith favorites. Get some REALLY cheap chipping brushes at the paintbrush store and apply while piece is still a black heat. Wipe off excess with a rag. Last a LONG LONG time!! I just looked at the MSDS for Johnson's Paste Wax and it's primary ingredient has a flash point of only 88 degrees F! Am I reading something wrong here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 I generally square the area to be twisted and don't use a horn or pipe to make the hook but just the flat of the anvil: Make the counter bend on each end, then stick about 1/2 the loop size over the edge and knock it down into a lazy L, then place it on the anvil's face with the end sticking up and lightly hammer it in and down to make a loop---all done hot of course. For finishing I generally use plain old paraffin wax---from big old candles bought for a quarter at garage sales. Applied just below smoking temp and then let the hook hang to cool. If it forms a drop of wax at the low points, just pop that off with a thumbnail and wave it over the forge fire to re-melt and smooth the wax on that end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeberdy2 Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 if you get a wonky twist like this, i use a leather or copper hammer to tap it back into place. then you dont ruin the twist its self by re aligning it. and another cheat i sometimes use is circlip pliers to do the little curl over of your end, this turns out alot rounder as long as you get a good heat on it. bit of a cheat but it works. (obviously use the fully straight circlip pliers and not the bent ones or the cheap ones with flat tips.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drewed Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 How I do s hooks ( and there is no right way...) 1. Taper, or flatten, or what ever one end. 2. Form the hook 3. Make the scroll at the end of the hook ( usally I cheat and use a ring tong!) 4. Make the other hook 5. Make the other scroll 6. Cuss and swear at them until the "match" 7. Add the twist in the middle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozark Nick Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 6. Cuss and swear at them until the "match" I learn something new everyday! ;) Are there specific swear words to make hooks match or will any do? lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Make 2 hooks and match two ends, then flip them around to match the other 2 ends. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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