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I Forge Iron

Homemade anvil


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Hello everyone. I am trying to get back into forging again, I needed an anvil so i thought I'll just buy one and move on. HOLY COW! they are proud of new anvils now. I work in a fab shop and thought how hard can this really be. I did my design on auto cad and created a CNC program for the burning machine. Absconded a piece of 5" a514-T1Q plate and let the supervisor know he had a new job for the day. post-23636-0-88431600-1325976854_thumb.j
post-23636-0-49699600-1325976950_thumb.j

Here we are burning the blank

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Then drilling the pilot to burn the hardy hole

post-23636-0-16195200-1325977140_thumb.j

Finished 5 hours of labor

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Yeah it will harden out to about 52 rockwell ©. So far I have only done the fab work I have to pick up a load of coal before I can harden it. Its 30 inches long and about 13.875 high. I still need to finish the polish on the horn and break the edges on the top. I also need to round up a couple of helper to get it out of the forge and into the oil bath. I have picked up 100 gallons of used oil for a quench bath. That's puppy's gonna smoke like nobodies business when I quench it.

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Yeah it will harden out to about 52 rockwell ©. So far I have only done the fab work I have to pick up a load of coal before I can harden it. Its 30 inches long and about 13.875 high. I still need to finish the polish on the horn and break the edges on the top. I also need to round up a couple of helper to get it out of the forge and into the oil bath. I have picked up 100 gallons of used oil for a quench bath. That's puppy's gonna smoke like nobodies business when I quench it.

Wouldn't a water quench be more appropriate for something this size?
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A514

A quenched and tempered high strength steel used in structural applications where high strength and low weight are critical. We stock this material in Grades B, H, F & Q.


Mechanical Properties:

Tensile:
up to 2.5” 110 to 130 ksi over 2.5” to 6” 100 to 130

Yield:
up to 2.5” 100 ksi min over 2.5” to 6” 90 ksi min

Elongation:
up to 2.5” 18% in 2” over 2.5” to 6” 16% in 2”

Brinell:
235—293 is typical, but it is not usually indicated on the MTR’s

Grade:

Grade B:
Up to and including 1-1/4”

Grade: H:
Over 1.25” to 2” inclusive

Grade F:
Over 2” to 2.5” inclusive

Grade Q:
Over 2.5” to 6”


.
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That is truly amazing. I would love to have access to tooling like that to make my own large anvil!! Will there be issues with a steam jacket forming between the hot metal and the water/oil? Or do you have a tank with serious flow capabilities?

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i have to say i had been thinking that a way around the steam jacket and need for moving water would be to move your anvil
you could hook a cable or chain to the anvil and swing it back and forth in a large pool/pond or if you are lucky off a dock
this would require a boom of some sort but in general seems not to complicated
as well there should be a good chunk of entertainment value in the anvil swing

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Nice job on the anvil. I'm impressed with it only taking you 5 hours to get as far as you did.

I'd need to see the chemisty to advise on water or oil but based on the tensile/yield strength values reported above I'm thinking water is the way to go. You will definitly need mor than 100 gallons of quench fluid and you will need a way to agitate the fluid. My suggestion would be to find a large volum of water such as a creek, pond or swimming pool. Rent a coulple of 2" diameter high volume pumps and use them to blast the face of the anvil with water.

Patrick

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Ooooh, how about building a bonfire around the anvil on a nice beach. Then run a length of chain out into the water to a waiting boat that will take off when critical temp has been reached? You might need a buoy midway on the line to keep the anvil from going to the bottom, but you'd sure have plenty of quench and no worries about a steam jacket!

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You know, nothing says I have to do the heat treating at home. I can easily go to the Cahaba river use a pulley on a limb with some 1/2" cable and dunk it after it reaches temp, and yes I will video if I go that way. This is gonna take one heck of a fire to get up to temp, followed by some well placed cursing and a monster steam cloud. I am liking the way this sounds more and more......

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Just dunking it in a lot of water will not be effective. You need a forceful stream to pound through the steam jacket. Traditionally they used a flume or water tower; however when McRaven did his anvil he used a high pressure hose from a local volunteer fire department.

When you get done please do a cost work up of what your company would have charged to make that for a customer---very likely new anvils wouldn't seem so expensive anymore. Getting metal for scrap and using your own uncharged time really makes a difference in the cost!

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Thomas you are absolutely right, trust me if I had paid for what I did as an outside customer $2800.00 for a new anvil would be cheap. I milled the top down about 0.200 to remove the heat affected zone from the oxy-fuel cut. Also the material cost would have been a little over a dollar a pound (our cost) about 1.75 per pound cut (your price). then include an hour or two of machine time on the mill yeah its ugly. One of my perks for working here is the occasional government job. I live three houses down from a volunteer fire department and that is an option for quenching, I just like to do things myself when ever possible.

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David Thompson and I quenched an anvil in the Willamette river a number of years back. We had a piece of chain wrapped around like a harness and rehearsed putting our piece of pipe through it and wading a few feet to a nice ,about three feet deep, hole. River was running pretty hard so it was a good quench. We put the anvil in a piece of culvert and stuck two propane weed burning torches in ends. We finally figured out one torch in one end would have been quicker! As it was it took a lot of beer before we,I mean the anvil, reached the right temperature.

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