Hayden H Posted November 30, 2011 Posted November 30, 2011 I'm looking to build a belt grinder. The three above are the ones I can get plans for. I personally like the simplicity of the No Weld, but the alterability of the Grinder In a Box, the KMG kinda scares me a bit with all the drilling and tapping. I'm making my Christmas list and I put belt grinder plans on it. SO I'm gonna have one of these built before January 15 of Next year. KMG, Grinder In a Box, No Weld Grinder. Give me your un-biased opinion on which of the these is the best for the buck. I don't have the money to drop for a Bader, or Burr-King either so any store bought model is out of the question. Quote
gearhartironwerks Posted November 30, 2011 Posted November 30, 2011 My suggestion, depending upon your skill level, is to research what others have done. Belt grinders are easy to build and cost effective for ones that are home built. I do suggest buying Beaumont Metalworks wheels as they are well made and reasonably priced. No need to buy a kit. John Quote
trinityforge Posted December 6, 2011 Posted December 6, 2011 Polarbear forge has a product called "grinder in a box" it is about $700 and comes with much of what is needed. All you have to do is drill and tap, then get the wheels and motor. When you look at a Bader for $1700.00 or more, makes much more sense. Also, if you want to you can get the Grizzly knife grinder, it is not ideal, but does work well for shorter knives. Quote
MLMartin Posted December 6, 2011 Posted December 6, 2011 I think your pretty far off with the 700, just looked at his site and it says 260 Quote
Luke March Posted December 6, 2011 Posted December 6, 2011 I got the grinder in a box kit, and very much like how it turned out (though I still have to add the platen and workrest). While the part of the kit which you buy from polar bear forge is around $260, after you total up everything else (wheels from beaumont metals, bolts, motor, switch, wiring, etc.) you are going to be more in the $700 range. I have a 2 hp 3500 rpm motor for mine: that grinder will pretty much eat whatever you feed it. (sure beats the 1/3 hp bench grinder I used to use). In short, I would recommend the grinder in a box kit, though I will readily admit that I have no experience with the others. Quote
Hayden H Posted December 6, 2011 Author Posted December 6, 2011 I'm leaning towards the grinder in a box. I know for sure if I buy it I'll have atleast $500 into it. I can get wheels made at cost of materials up to 14 inches. I figure a Grizzly hollow grinding wheel, ($68), 3 3 inch wheels ($150 if I buy em online), and other various parts. Quote
KST1-Derek Fultz Posted December 7, 2011 Posted December 7, 2011 Hayden, Please keep this post up to date as you move along. I'm in a similar situation and am interested in what you learn/decide. Thanks, -Derek Quote
Hayden H Posted December 7, 2011 Author Posted December 7, 2011 I'm here to learn. I'm gonna take a peice of 1/2 inch plate I have laying around the shop to the table and gopefully get parts cut to make a small working model. If not I lost nothing in a free peice of plate steel Quote
boatbuilder Posted December 7, 2011 Posted December 7, 2011 EERF grinder plans. I built one of these and I really like it. I am in the process of putting another one together. Jim Quote
Hayden H Posted December 7, 2011 Author Posted December 7, 2011 Yeah, the EERF is one I'm trying to talk my teacher into cutting out of the peice of plate steel. We talked about which would be cheaper to build and he said the no-weld because its build completely from stuff you have around, and then you can make more with the plans or make parts quickly. (He said make more with a sly smile, which means if I build one, there'll be atleast 3 in the works) Quote
WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith Posted December 8, 2011 Posted December 8, 2011 The GIB is a good way to go. Study his web-site closely and explore his links. When I build belt grinders I get my wheels from www.usaknifemaker.com. Tracy gives good service and has everything you need. I use the Poly wheels. They are much less expensive than the rubber wheels and I have not had a failure in any grinder that I have built of kit that I have supplied. You can also get wheels from xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx I use a drive wheel, tracking wheel, 2" and 8" poly wheels. If you contact Sunray just tell Keith that you need a set of wheels like he makes for me. I have not heard good things about the Grizzly wheel. You can call me or send an e-mail if you have other questions or if I can help you.mod note : Spam vacation site link removed,, It would have been allowed to post a Email for the person rather advertizing his off topic site Quote
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted December 8, 2011 Posted December 8, 2011 Wayne is just too humble. He sells grinders and kits and videos. Go to his site --> WAYNE COE ARTIST/BLACKSMITH Quote
nthe10ring Posted December 9, 2011 Posted December 9, 2011 I built one of the GIB kits from Polar Bear and used the 1 1/2 HP Motor and VFD from Wayne Coe. Both guys are great to deal with and very much in line on their prices. I did some trading around and got my wheels, ( two idle, tracking and drive ) and I ended up with about 1100 bucks in the whole thing. If I had to buy the wheels new it would have been more. I messed around for about a year getting everything together but glad I purchased and completed the project. Its a very good grinder and compatable with the more expensive models. It tracks on the money and has plenty of power. I really enjoy the variable speed. I am going to order the platen that allows mounting an eight inch and 3 inch wheel in the future and set up another tool arm for it. Jerry Fisher Quote
Iron Striker Posted December 9, 2011 Posted December 9, 2011 Hayden, I'm in the same position you are in. I was trying to decide between the GIB and the Coote Belt Grinder. The GIB seems to be more versitile. What is the EERF grinder? I haven't come across it. Keep on posting your progress. Thanks, Jamie Herring Quote
WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith Posted December 9, 2011 Posted December 9, 2011 EERF is FREE backwards. You can download the plans from www.wilmontgrinders.com They are the plans that the GIB is based on.] The GIB is lazer cut from 1/2" plate. I think that you would be better off getting a GIB unless you have a good method of cutting the parts from 1/2" plate. Most who are making knives really appreciate the veriable speed obtained by using a VFD and the multi wheel type grinder as oppossed to a Grizzly, Coote, Kalamazo or other 2 wheel grinder. I have had people come to my shop with an new 2 wheel grinder, seen my grinder, then sent the 2 wheel model back and bought my Moe's Grinder. Quote
Iron Striker Posted December 9, 2011 Posted December 9, 2011 Wayne, Thanks for the information. I like your web site and your grinders! If my wife didn't have to take her EERF cats to the vet so often I could buy one of yours! Jamie Quote
WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith Posted December 10, 2011 Posted December 10, 2011 Jamie, that sounds like our house. We live next to a wild life management area where people think is a good place to dump dogs. Ours is the first house and where the dogs decide to stop. Just tell your wife that you are going to help out with Moe. Quote
Iron Striker Posted December 10, 2011 Posted December 10, 2011 Wayne, I just connected the dots! I like your forum too! Hayden, I think I'm sold on the GIB. Post some pics if you get started. Jamie Quote
RandyScott Posted December 10, 2011 Posted December 10, 2011 There was a NWG for sale in a knife forum on another website, turn key, ready to plug in and grind. The seller had a detailed listing of all the expenses and parts to complete the grinder. He has about $1,500 in it and will sell it for $700. Drop me a PM or an email and I'll provide a link to the thread. This will give you a better feel, and perhaps a more objective viewpoint, for all that is necessary to get a 'kit' completed and functional. Then, depending on your resourcefulness and scrounging abilities, perhaps you can complete the project in your cost window. Quote
Hayden H Posted December 11, 2011 Author Posted December 11, 2011 For now I'll go with the No-Weld. But after I get me input out, I'll start saving for a different grinder, or maybe a better shop? My shop teacher and I discussed the 4 we could find, he told me the no-weld, because thats something "You can make as many of as you want, without using a plasma cutter or torch". He also pointed out that I, at the moment (Its starting into winter, so I have no job to make $ until I have a grinder to make knives) do not have the money to invest in a naked grinder frame, but instead into tubing to make atleast 3 whole grinder frames or buy wheels for one. Also that I had access to a full shop and my classmates "assistance". Quote
gearhartironwerks Posted December 12, 2011 Posted December 12, 2011 Just out of curiosity, I went to the Wilmont web site. Seems everything is pretty much "out of stock". That certainly doesn't instill a desire to buy. JE Quote
Justin Carnecchia Posted December 12, 2011 Posted December 12, 2011 After looking into making one for several months I bought the KMG. It is built like a tank and when you figure in the time ivolved in building very reasonably priced.I have no doubt it will outlast me and it works beautifully. I don't know your skill level but there is no way I could have built as good a grinder. If you absolutly can't afford one or wait you may want to consider a simple two wheel system where the contact wheel is the drive wheel and then there is just a tracking/idler wheel. That will be the cheapest route, and easiest. Then you can save for a better one and if you plan ahead you will be able to re-use the motor. If you google knife grinder you should be able to find some plans. If you have the skill and tools then there are detailed plans for the KMG out there too, but it will require cutting some half inch plate. What are you using now? Quote
Double Y Posted December 12, 2011 Posted December 12, 2011 https://picasaweb.go...648/BeltGrinder# This is a link to photos of my GIB. The GIB is designed to use a face mount motor. I wanted to purchase one of the motors and VFD's from Wayne, but couldn't afford it at this juncture. So I bought a motor off Craigslist and cut and tapped holes through the bottom to attach my motor. The motor works like a charm and the grinder is a superior tool. In the photos you can see the spring at the back. I had trouble getting the belt to track. After contacting Jamie I put a heavier spring on and it is going good. The secret here is to have the belt bloody tight. The only short coming to the GIB is no instructions at all coming with the frame. I normally throw out all directions anyway, but with this build it would have been nice to have at least a couple photos to work from. I ended up going back and forth to the house to dial up Polar Bear Forge's website to see how others had configured the grinder. I used the XXXXXXXXXXX grinder yesterday and it is a dream to work with. John Quote
Hayden H Posted December 12, 2011 Author Posted December 12, 2011 I noticed that about the Wilmont site also. I also read that "Our superior anodized aluminium wheels wear better and the anodization lasts longer". The last time I checked anodization jus tmeant to color the aluminum, it shouldn't effect its wear or use Quote
Mainely,Bob Posted December 13, 2011 Posted December 13, 2011 They may be using a hard anodizing and that would make a huge difference. Quote
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