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I Forge Iron

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Posted

I recently got a request for a large anchor for the end of a drive way for decoration. This will be a 6-7ft tall anchor. I am making the body from 3-1/2" O.D. tube that is 1/4" thick. I have to make a couple of pass throughs for the end ring or clevis and for the cross bar with a 90º bend in it (the stock). Here is a couple pics of what I have done so far. Pictures of the rest will follow. - JK

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Posted

There is an anchor in a neighbors yard that he recovered from the floor of the Monterey Bay, here are a couple of shots, may help for reference. I tried to get this guy to sell me this anchor but he wants to keep it.

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And don't forget the chain (so no one takes it)

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Here is a couple pictures of the bottom tube for the anchor (3-1/2" O.D. 1/4" wall). The one picture shows using my hydraulic press to bend it to a roughly 4ft radius. I used 2 pcs of 4" "I" beam welded side by side with a couple chunks of 2" rounds on the ends for the bending jig to set on the table of the press. I had to think within the press to do this - (all cold) which helped with handling and kept cost down to the client. More pictures soon....

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Posted

When you made the pass-through (I assume you slitted and drifted?), how did you prevent the tube from collapsing inward?

Posted

wowzers jk thats going to look great :)!! love how youve bent that - and the texture is fab.. will it stand alone or be mounted on gate or what? you got to love anchors! :)

Posted

Here's the picture of the top of the anchor where the ring or clevis will go through and below that is where the "stock" will pass through. Also a picture of the fluke size that I will cut from 1/2" plate, I may make it a bit longer than the cardboard pattern (12" x 18"). Tip to tip on the flukes will be approximately 70". I've been happy with the way it has turned outso far, being that it looks like solid when it's actually a tube.

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Posted

Jeremy, I missed this post, earlier. WOW!! It looks GREAT!! I'm with Don A on "How did you punch and drift the tube without collapsing?" Did you fill it with sand? Really looks like solid, instead of tubing. You do great work. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product, too. :)

Posted

Here's a picture of the flukes cut from 1/2" plate - (20" long x 12" wide) and set with the parts(not welded together yet). The width of the anchor, fluke tip to tip is 72" and 82" tall. Now to make the stock (the cross bar that goes through the large hole and a clevis for the top hole.


The holes were made unlike a solid bar (not slit and punched) but slit and pulled from the outside.

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Posted

This is a couple pictures of making the "stock" for the anchor. This was a jeremy rigged way of having to deal with a problem.....that was to make a 10-12" radius bend on 2-3/8" O.D. pipe after I had hammer textured it. Now this is a bit of a stretch without a proper machine, but this is what I did and how I did it. Now - THIS IS NOT A RECOMMENDED WAY, just the way that I was able to accompish it with what I had at hand. Do not try this without having much rigging experience.

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Posted

Great job Jeremy
Are you going to show some pipe forging and the holes at the Bemidji conference

Posted

Here's a quick shot of the stock cut to size with one of the 4-1/4" O.D. balls I made welded on and the other in my hand for the other end. This gives a better idea of the size of this project.

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Posted

jk - thats so ace :) its huge! how did you make the balls? and did you really forge the plate down too? i like your jobs! you have interesting customers :) what finish is it going to have?

Posted

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Here is how the balls were made. 1/8" steel was used to make the 5-1/4" diameter blanks, this yielded a 4-1/4" O.D. ball with the 1/2" spacer used.

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