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I Forge Iron

Fly press gloat and drop hammer question


HWooldridge

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I picked up a nice fly press today; it's a C-frame and about equivalent to the #2 shown on the OWA site. It is the arm and weight type with a 1-3/4, 3-start screw (I already knocked the dog snot out of myself because I wasn't paying attention - won't do that twice, ouch!). Paid scrap price for the press but everything is there along with a 3/4 punch set that does a good job on 16 ga sheet metal. I'd post a pic but the website still won't allow it.

At any rate, this fellow also has two old drop hammers that are relatively small. They are about 9 feet tall with no motors but do have the pickup wheels on top and were run with straps. I'm guessing but the rams are 200 lbs or less. The frame of each is a tall thin casting with V-ways running along the length with the ram sandwiched in between. Since the uprights are in the way, there is limited access all the way around like on a C-frame hammer but I can probably also get these for scrap and was thinking about repowering with an air cylinder and one of the valve mechanisms seen here recently. Might not be good for 100% general forging but could be useful for special setups or dies. Anyone have an opinion on conversion - or should I consider restoring to original shape as a small drop hammer?

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  • 1 month later...

(I already knocked the dog snot out of myself because I wasn't paying attention - won't do that twice, ouch!).


When I had my flypress I made sure I mounted it so the balls and arms were high enough that I could not hit myself in the head. I could hit myself with the handle but as my hand was usually on it it was USUALLY not a problem. I could see doing yourself some serious harm if you were hit by one of the arms or weights.
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When I set my press up I made sure that the balls are just above my head (unless I stretch, in which case I have to be careful!) Unfortunately for most of my students I'm only 5' 4", so they don't always notice that they have to watch their heads when I don't! :D

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Most of the problems with this head thwacking is the misuse of the tool being used for forging and not punching or forming the items they were originally designed to produce, that is why the top arms are fitted to an octagonal cone to enable the arms to be positioned correctly to make the contact blow efficient with a simple pull of the handle, as opposed to the excess swinging we seem to gleefully indulge in

They were also used by operators sitting in front of them , not standing.

One way of getting a bit of safety is to fit a ring to the extremities of the balls, to act as a safety rail on the periphery of the ball's orbit.

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I haven't come close to hitting myself again - made myself a mental rule to always leave the handle in the same place every time and to PAY ATTENTION! I'm over 6' so have to be cautious about cracking my skull on lots of stuff, which should be an ingrained habit by now but I still slip up now and then.

I also did some cold work sitting on a stool the other day and that was quite comfortable. Like John said, it's clear that's how they were intended to be used.

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