Glenn Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9jDR_2Zsr40&feature=relmfu This is a new style splitter to me. I understand the concept but did they choose wood that splits easily for the video? Look at how deep the leading edge of the tool goes into the wood before it splits. Also I do not see any knots in the wood (grin) I also wonder about the 1/4 turn or so with each hit and how it would affect your body, wrist, arm etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drewed Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 Looks gimmicky to me. Really thin head for a splitting ax and relies on the twisting forceto actually split the wood. As for the wood, It looks like birch to me, but that may be snow on the bark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KST1-Derek Fultz Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 There's deffinitely something to the axe geometry that helps with the splitting. But that wood is obviously easily split as well. He's not even taking full swings. Show me a video of him splitting Hedge/Osage Orange with ease and I'll then be impressed. -Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 There's deffinitely something to the axe geometry that helps with the splitting. But that wood is obviously easily split as well. He's not even taking full swings. Show me a video of him splitting Hedge/Osage Orange with ease and I'll then be impressed. -Derek No kidding on the Bois D'Arc, that stuff is tuff...mesquite is very easy to split if there's no forks or knots. You can make kindling with just a machete or hatchet. However, I know nothing about northern timber types so the bark is a mystery to me but the wood looks to be light in weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 That tool is the thing for the species he is splitting. It looks like birch and is definitely easy to split. Looks gimmicky to me too, and I do wonder about the twist action. Looks uncomfortable to use. The tire on the stump is more of use for the rest of us, as it will make any species that is splitting with fair effort easier since you won't be chasing logs down. Hedgeapple is fun to split, really... I split a long log (10 ft) and used 6 wedges, 2 mauls, and had to pass the chainsaw through the gap to get the first split in it. Got a couple staves curing from that fun. Even regular rounds, 16 inch long, are not so easy to split and I often resort to wedging instead of using the maul. Not sure what I will do with it though. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy seale Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 yeah..try that on some seasoned live oak.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farmall Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 Get him some good sweet gum too.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 Well it has a similar action to Tom Clark's "Buster". I have seen that in use on MO hardwoods and it was amazing. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BxCmG5sG6A Notice the size of some of those woodpiles! I cannot imagine Tom Clark involved in any "gimmick". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marksnagel Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 Ditto on the sweet gum and the seasoned oak. Both are prevalent here in NC, Gum has a twist to it and oak is, well, oak. I've been splitting wood all my life and when I moved here the older guys told me to give it the twist just as it hits. It really does make a difference but not like the video was showing. Plus it feels odd to twist each time. Log splitters rule! The tire affixed to the top of the splitting log is a great idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 Log splitters rule! Tom Clark again:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95Z2UXEFUIw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmazingo Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 I may make me one of those axes with the cold roll welded to the head. If it works for him I am sure it will work for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clinton Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 He can come over and split some Eucalyptus for me, three wedges and about 30 minutes to split a log is what it took me. Log splitter or chainsaw is the only way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 I may make me one of those axes with the cold roll welded to the head. If it works for him I am sure it will work for me. cold rolled what? its a process not a steel content, and most cold rolled wont harden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 Besides the twist, this brings to my mind the whole subject of how to swing an axe or sledge. In the early days of American golf, a renowned lady golfer, Babe Zaharius, was interviewed on the radio. She was asked why she didn't swing like a girl. Her response, "A swing is a swing is a swing." I have tried to teach boo coo people how to use the Continental striking method for blacksmiths. I would bet you that 20% of right handed beginners place their left hand nearer the sledge head than their right hand. Wrong. When I correct a guy and tell him to swap hands, I often get a fatuous look and the reply is something like, "But it feels better the other way." My response is usually, "Get over it!" Now, in looking at the first video, I would just bet that he is right handed and holding the axe like a left hander. You'll notice that the axe is held and swung a little to the right of his body. He's getting the job done, but it might be easier if he swapped hands. I can't prove that he's right handed, but his body language "acts right handed." I suspect that he's self taught. I admit that there are different styles of swinging a hafted tool. Tom Clark is sliding his right hand on the haft. This is the way my dad showed me to swing an axe when wanting to hit fairly hard. I'm originally from Missouri, too. Presently on youtube, I am shown demoing the Continental blacksmith striking method. This was first shown to me by Harry Jensen, who was trained in Denmark. There is also a full around swing used by smiths, but I don't attempt to teach it in a short course. Not enough time to get accurate. Circus roustabouts have their style. Gandy dancers have their style. But in all instances, there is a sort of bodily whip-like action to the swing. I liken it to throwing a ball. The entire body is active and is grounded. I have a wonderful striker, Daniel, working with me presently. He worked in a shop in Germany for five years. His take on the subject is that if you strike hard, but incorrectly, you might not be able do it all day long. He claims that with the Continental method, he can continue for hours without undue fatigue (realizing that there are slight breaks between heats). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inventor Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Hi Just found this topic. The Leveraxe is totally new type of a handoperational tool for splitting firewood. It looks like an axe, but it functions differently. It is also very safe. During the 6,5 years existence there has happened NO ACCIDENT. The friction is nearly non existent. The LEVERAGE multiplies the initial splitting power up to 30 times stronger than in the conventional axes. You'll find the details here.http://www.vipukirve...description.htm A lot more in You Tube and Google Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBrann Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 IF both hands have a loose grip the twist may mot be a problem. Mass times rotation equals torque (sort of..foot pounds...kip loads... newtons..newton meters I know..... ), correct? The Leveraxe is basically a class 2 lever? Long side to short side? Still I would like to see an oak crotch or branch knot.. or hornbeam.. or other tough species. Is this not often discussed here? How to strike X for maximum effect with minimum Q( force, effort, "work".... whatever)! Not advocating forging like this, but as givens straight grain and assuming relatively dry and non-"stringy" wood.. why not split this way, especially if it is primary heat for your home and family. There are species all over the world that don't split or rive well... or even saw well.. If you send this guy osage orange... australian gum tree or a burl or ironwood (lignum vitae)... there is no splitting that.. WHy not pick something that works for a demo? Not defending... just saying this is not for every wood... much like there is no single pair of shoes or jacket for every climate.... Would you ever demo something that won't/doesn't work? Cliff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inventor Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 It is all the same how you hold the handle. Important is, that you hold it as gently as possible to allow the rotation. You will not get such chocks to your hands and body as you get by using the conventional axes and mauls . By knowing, that the blade will stop on the block, the splitting is very enjoyable as you can see in the attached video. So far I haven't found any problem trees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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