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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by Awalker

  1. Not hot enough,, or bar was bent to the side while twisting. What type of wrench are you using, what size is the material, what color are you twisting at?
  2. Put them on ebay, make money. Money is useful.
  3. I use a chevy 1 ton tranny with a granny first, and power it with a Rigid 300 pipe threader. I have twisted 2, 3/4"square, and two 5/8" square together to make a sort of cable10' at a time, as i usually dont need more.
  4. King and the like have none of this kind of stuff. It looks like the cheapest way to get the parts is to buy an old bed and remake it.
  5. I have been tasked with building a vintage lookin iron bed. The construction and bending are no issue at all. I am having trouble sourcing the little cast iron parts that cover the rod junctions, They are like small tees, or crosses that have a flowery or filegree pattern cast into them. I have looked at teh usual sources but did not come up with anything. Does anybody have a source for iron bed parts? Also, what do you call those details? Trunnions? FWIW, I tried talking them into forged details, but her heart is set on the cast iron. Thanks
  6. Mine was worn to the point of not holding. I simply cut off the acme screw and welded on a new screw. It has been holding fine in my fab shop, used every day for several years now. When the box finally wears enough that it won't hold the new screw I will bore out the box, turn down some acme nuts a braze them inside the box.
  7. Might try melting some pine pitch and pouring into the cracks. It is firm but will give. It is also used for the type of work you are doing.
  8. I was referring to the guy that made the hammer eye drift
  9. Some of you guys are nuts! drawing 1 1/4" HC without a power hammer is not fun. I would think at least a buddy with a heavy hammer would make it at least tolerable. Really, 3 hours drawing something out is insane. As far as quenching, I tend to quench when changing sides, just to keep the heat down. The more I can keep the heat away from my body, the longer I can work. I don't worry too much about a36 hardening too much, I've had it happen, but when I am done forging it, there is very little reason to bend it cold. Generally, after the last operation I don't quench, just set it on the grou
  10. There is really no reason to have a licensed electrician run these wires, nor is there a 'coded' wire to run. Lamp cord works fine.the wireing should have been planned out during the design phase of the build. Making one of the legs out of tubing works best. It takes a little extra practice to be able to forge the tubing, but pays off at wiring time. Were I trying to wire that I would likely split the wires where it goes into the twist, then run one of the pair on either side up the twist. just put a little caulking to hold it in place.
  11. Wow, a six year old post brought back to life.
  12. Any progress? I would just use a cutting torch and blow it out.
  13. Check out a search for clavos. https://www.google.com/search?q=clavos&client=firefox-a&hs=LRE&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=2DCHUdyjNOazigLyoYCwBA&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAQ&biw=1366&bih=639 Usually they are just forged/deorative heads welded onto something convenient to use, like screws, nails, lags, bolts, etc.
  14. I thought about rigging a brush to run on the back side of the belt that was grounded (suppose you could just ground the platten), rubber mats on the floor, running the swamp cooler (sucks in the winter though), grounding braclets (like they use handling electronics), etc. I have not tried them though, by the time I get ready to do it, the humidity comes back up and the problem is over until next winter.
  15. The portion of the sheet that spans from the center roller to the outfeed roller just does not get bent, exact opposite at the other end. if the distance between your two bottom rollers is 6", then that is ow much metal will not get rolled, half at each end, it is just never put into a pinch by the center roller.
  16. I just finished forging 285 3/4" bars. i would have hated to have to do that all by hand. I think about 1/2 bar is an upper limit when foging by hand. I have forged down 1 1/4 by hand, but wouldn't want to do too many of them. Biggest difference, though is in how many you can do before you are spent. Power hammer allows you to do a lot more.
  17. I see you did not have on a very important piece of your PPE, ear plugs!
  18. If you like teists but have no vise just make a hardy tool for holding what ever size you usually use. To build it simply weld a stub (to go into the hardy hole) onto a thick piece of flat bar. On top of the flat bar weld two pieces of heavy square or round stock pointing up and the exact width apart as the material you wish to twist. will look like a narrow bending fork. Then simply bring your hot stock to it, set it between the legs, put your twisting wrench on the other side and twist away. Also pretty easy to make a horizontal vise for the top of the anvil too. Use a piece of heavy plate,
  19. I built my own touchmark out of a piece of coil spring. First cut a section and straighten it out. then determine how big (roughly) that you want the mark and draw the piece down to that size (you can grind it too). Anneal the piece of spring steel. Then design your touchmark and mark a mirror image of it on the end. Now you use files to file down to the perimeter of your design. Use files to cut away any portion of the design that you can. For metal removal inside the deign (like the inside of a letter O, etc) use small chisels to remove metal a little at a time. I use some small pieces of ju
  20. "any suggestions as to dressing the hardie hole?" something understated, maybe in black, definitely not formal though.
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