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I Forge Iron

My first smithy tools!


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Hi Alan. Make drift and tongs first. More "bang for the buck." But, sometimes I think that even tongs don't give that much bang for the buck. Tongs are richer in techniques training. Like leaves. In fact, I was just thinking that tongs are like leaves with a hole and alignment. To make a leaf, you have to point, set down, fuller, cut, draw and bend. Almost the same for tongs, except that there is that matter about the hole and rivet and upsetting. Also, the drawing down is much more work.

How about just making the jaws? Scott is a great forge weldor (uses it a lot), and he can show you a really easy way of setting a rod as a rivet without a header or bolster. Then you won't have to do all that drawing.

The hammer requires some upsetting and fullering. The main operation is punching the eye. Maybe drill two holes with that nice post drill at the smithy, then slit and drift. Fuller sides. Heat treat. Not as much basic technique, but a lot harder, heavier, and costly screw-ups.

The hammer will be worth about half what the tongs are worth to you. And, the technique development will be much less (IMHO-only).

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For $75 you done real good Alan. The chisels, punches, tongs, and even the hammers can be reforged to a style or shape you would more prefer. If you reforge the hammers, put a drift into the eye to hold its shape while you work on the ends of the hammer. From left to right, hammer #3 and hammer #7 could be cleaned up with just a flap disk or belt sander instead of reforging. The others, especially the ball peins, I'd leave as they are. #3 is your straight pein, the cross pein only needs a handle, maybe blunt that pein some. #7 could have one end rounded for a dishing hammer. #5 is a rounding hammer, just clean that up with a belt sander. For hammers, the only difference you can get is in weight and type of handle, so don't rush to make your own - use those until you get to knowing exactly what you want for a hammer.

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Just a suggest as to what to do with 'extra' ball piens. you can cut or chisel different designs in the ball ends for doing 'fancy' detail work. I've seen someone with a LARGE assortment of hammers that were done like this but can't remember who or where I saw it. (part of getting older...memory loss) I have about a dozen hammer heads I plan to do this to. And most I paid for any 1 hammer was $1.00. (None had handles).

Great score on the wad of tools you got. I love it when some one gets a score like that and show it off. Have fun.

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Alan, if any of those hammers are a little too heavy, and they need to be cleaned anyway, use a belt grinder/sander to take a little weight off while dressing the faces. Start on the sides and then the top and bottom, removing a little at atime and keeping it balanced. You could easily remove half a pound and have a polished nice hammer.

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Goodness Alan, I take my eyes off you for a little bit and all kinds of things happen!

Nice looking tools you made.

Excellent score on the tools as well. The brass horse shoe with the angle gage is a hoof angle gage. I probably have the name wrong but it is to check the angle of a hoof.

Now all you have to do is stop making that forge of yours prettier and light it up.

Frosty

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That "straight Pein" hammer looks much more like a set hammer than a straight pein. Was it perhaps a top swage, cold cut or even a hot cut before?

My daughter was taking an art class where they were using scribes but the class only had two; so I took some light coil spring (garage door IIRC) and made a handfull for her to take in. Impressed the teacher something awfull.

Thomas

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From the latest pictures. I would opine that it is a struck tool, the face is mushroomed, the body is out of alignment, making the "pein" a dulled cutter. Still, you can remake it into whatever you want, so it's still a good deal with all the other stuff.

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