kraythe Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 So I am not a pro smith so dont be too harsh. I am learning fast but have much more to learn. I was making a candle holder and it turned out pretty nice but not nearly as precise as I wanted. I wish the legs were a bit more symetrical and a I think it is slightly, less than 1/8" off center. The way I did it is to take a square of 1/8th steel and round up the corners with a rounded hammer then flatten the center using a pipe larger than the prospective candles. Once done with the dish, I made the legs out of 1/4" square stock. I created a rat tail and then twisted and bent like a j-hook. Then I scrolled the other end a bit after rounding it off. After that I cheated and MIG welded the legs to the dish. All was finished with burned in beeswax. The big problem that i had was in setting up the legs and leveling. I wanted all four legs to meet in the middle and then go out to the corners but due to tiny variations in forging, I had slight 1/8" or 1/4" variances that made the whole thing wobble. To fix it I heated the legs with an OA torch and tried to tap them into shape. 2 hours later I finally got it to at least the acceptable stage. I would heat the bend of the hook and then try tapping with a hammer and then repeat until it seemed flat and level. Now one problem is that not all of my hook legs were identical or close to identical. I have variations in them that make them slightly different. I think I will get better at replicating with time. However, when it comes to setting up and configuring the legs for a flat base to weld them, that process sucked. So I was wondering what tips you might have for leveling such a project. or any other tips. Thanks for your time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 Now you know why you see so many 3 legged objects,they`re stable on any surface :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naz Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 What Bob said ! Also, in this situation with 1/4" stock I would have adjusted (tapped)the legs cold. I know too well how frustrating this can be, sometimes with these little "off-symetrical" variation, it looks more hand-made. All in all, it turned out very nice. Naz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Roy Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 I rarely make anything 4 legged. Three is easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 When making the legs, lay one on top of the others and adjust each to match all. This gets the legs close to identical . Final assembly will create a difference in stability, so mark the ONE legs that is not toughing the table (or is too high etc) and only adjust that one leg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 I'm a fan of 3 legs also. When I have 4 or more I try to design the legs with section near the top so I can heat a section with a torch and draw it out enough to level it up. That way I am not changing the shape of the leg only the length. Go easy it don't take much. Your goal is to only have to draw one leg one time. On your piece if you would started the twist shorter you would have a straight part up under the cup to work with. I use a bic iron in the hardy hole and a small long neck hammer to reach into those tight places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fosterob Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 If I must make a 4 legged item Always set the legs on something you know is flat.I have an old granite polishing table for that. Even if your legs are perfect tables can be warped and tile countertops uneven so 3 legs is preferred. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fciron Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 What Glenn said: don't adjust all the legs, three of them are already touching the table. I usually rock the item to see which three legs are closest to level and then pick a single leg to adjust. Think of the legs as paired diagonally: the item rocks on the long pair and alternately touches on the short pair. Some times one of the long legs needs to be shortened to bring the top level. When adjusting to stop things from rocking, only mess with one leg. (Adjusting for symmetry is a whole 'nother issue and practice is the only thing that helps.) Practice will help train your eye. It is not always obvious how to adjust a curved object. I am a big fan of bending forks and pliers which allow me to put the bend exactly where I want it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doc Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 When making legged items either three or four legged. The important factor is to have all legs an identical length. To achieve this with curved legs some form of jig should be used to bend them and all forgings must be of identical length before bending on the jig.When welding the legs together as they are in the picture it should be done on a flat and level service with care in placement and to watch for movement caused by the welding process. The same care must then be applied when the supported item (candle holder,stool seat, table top )is welded to these legs. Just because a three legged or even four legged object doesn't rock won't mean that the object it supports is going to be level. Doc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianinsa Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 A tip for future assembly,fill a bag with lead shot/droplets etc.set the top piece in/on the bag, level it and tack on the legs to use for differing heights use bricks/cinder blocks first with bag on top. To make lead droplets melt lead and pour(slowly) into a 5gal bucket of water! Sorry, no quick fix for current problem! Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike-hr Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 Another approach, not the best idea, just another idea.. The twisty parts that sit on the table are most likely sharp, and will eventually scratch the wood table. I would consider doing a nice wrap with rawhide bootlaces for the contact area, and use the wrap to hide a shim on the non-contact leg(s). I've also leveled stuff like that with differing thicknesses of felt sticky dots or cork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWHII Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 I hope this will make some sense when I try to explain it. With items like small tables and stands with odd shaped legs I will make a jig using square tubing in a square or shape of the base with the inside of the square or shape dimension being the dimension of the outside part. Then set the bottom of the legs in inside the jigs square corners and tack. Or tack a piece of flat bar on edge to clamp the legs on. Then set the top on and use a level to adjust it then tack and weld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Seelye Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 Been there! I would find a suitable object to set my plate on with enough room to tack my legs on underneath. This allows me to adjust my height to what I desire. If using a mig, then I would position my leg beneath the plate and tack it on, repeat on all 4 corners. They should all hit the table and you will only be off by the amount of warp you put in the plate when you weld it. OR you can do the same thing by finding a suitable object and weld the legs together and then attach the plate to the finished legs. I think this is what ianinsa is doing to stabilize the plate so it stays in place while you weld the legs on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calala Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 Fine adjustments can sometimes take longer than making an item, for small table top items I place a piece of glad wrap on a FLAT surface then apply a small button of clear silicone sealant to the bottom of each leg, place on glad wrap and press down lightly so as to just flatten the silicone slightly, allow to dry then remove glad wrap and you have a none slip/none scratch/level item. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 Simple, value adding, and I would not have thought of it myself! Thanks! Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianinsa Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Calala, That's just too clever for words! Ta Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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