Ranger604 Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 I finally found a good deal (all relative, HUH?) on a 1930's LG25. No power source though. It ran on a line shaft system in the day. It came from a blacksmith shop that operated in the 1930's and 40's in Kellog, Iowa by the Hammer brothers. NO JOKE, their name is Hammer. I bought it from the nephew, who is 80 years old. Had a great time buying it too, spent several hours talking hunting, fishing and 'smithing. Got the hammer for $1000 and it was easy location for me, 2 hours from home. 1) What motor do I need? Wanting to stay 110 due to my electrical and space limitations at my residence. What RPM is needed? HP? 2) Ideas on mounting the motor to it? Pulley system? Stay with the line shaft type pulleys? Convert? 3) Would love any further history, written, photos whatever on the Kellog, IA blacksmith shop. I really like the history to the hammer. And of course any other good opinions are welcome... I think a trip to Sids is in order to the rebuild class to further my knowledge as well. Photos to come... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hammer Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 I finally found a good deal (all relative, HUH?) on a 1930's LG25. No power source though. It ran on a line shaft system in the day. It came from a blacksmith shop that operated in the 1930's and 40's in Kellog, Iowa by the Hammer brothers. NO JOKE, their name is Hammer. I bought it from the nephew, who is 80 years old. Had a great time buying it too, spent several hours talking hunting, fishing and 'smithing. Got the hammer for $1000 and it was easy location for me, 2 hours from home. 1) What motor do I need? Wanting to stay 110 due to my electrical and space limitations at my residence. What RPM is needed? HP? 2) Ideas on mounting the motor to it? Pulley system? Stay with the line shaft type pulleys? Convert? 3) Would love any further history, written, photos whatever on the Kellog, IA blacksmith shop. I really like the history to the hammer. And of course any other good opinions are welcome... I think a trip to Sids is in order to the rebuild class to further my knowledge as well. Photos to come... Sid would be a great resource for answers. Just give him a call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sask Mark Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 I run mine with a 1725 rpm, 1 hp single phase farm duty electric motor. I believe that is what is recommended on Sid's website. I think I have a 2" pulley on the motor. I wouldn't mind going with a little smaller pulley on the motor to slow it down slightly. I have heard if you call Sid with the serial number, he can often give you some background information on the history of the hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Dean Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 Good for you! The book recommends a 1750RPM motor and a 2"pulley at the motor. I run mine with a single 3/8" "V" belt. Hopefully 'peacock', an IFI member, will show up here with some info for you. Phil Cox is his name and is an absolute guru on LG hammers. Also, what they said about Sid. Email the serial # and he can tell you who the first owner was, where it was sold and Month, day, and year! I am also thinking on making the rebuild class in March this coming yr. I need to rebuild my 50#er and do some work with the 25#er as well. Phil uses a brake system on his hammers and can make it hit one blow if needed....saw him put his touchmark on a piece he made at one of the demos this past June at the ABANA conference. Great guy to visit with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Hanson Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 I was at Sid's last weekend, swapping parts and forging damascus. Give him or Keri a call if you need anything, they are super folks! Oh, I did the rebuild class 10 years ago, it is highly recommended! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger604 Posted December 12, 2010 Author Share Posted December 12, 2010 Here are some photos of the hammer. It was first bought in 1916. It appears to have what some call plow dies. I reckon I should switch these out?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hammer Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 Those dies may be tall enough to be ground or milled down to a useful configuration (flat, crowned or combo). As long as you can adjust the position of the stroke to have the top die about 3/4 of an inch above the lower die (ram at rest at the bottom of the stroke, hammer not running), they should work fine.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hammer Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 Double post... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 Those dies are aready to short to work. If you look you can see where the ram guide has been relieved to clear the toggle bolts. This condition only happens when the total die stack is too short. If you want drawing dies you may be able to replace the lower die with a new taller die and grind the upper to match the radius of the new die. If this condition is not fixed you will wreck your hammer and it could cause the hammer to break and injure the operator. I have rebuilt many of these hammers and I don't know of any other suitable repair. A 1 hp 1750 rpm motor will run it fine. I mount the motor on the right side as you face the hammer. Bottom of the drive pully about even with the bottom of the clutch pully. Thanks, Thomas for the kind words but I think guru is a bit of an over statement. I really do enjoy getting the best from these hammers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
781 Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 Great that you found a hammer Peacock (Phil Cox) is the man when it comes to rebuilding a LG Twice I have watched him forge a small anivl only using a 25 LG so his runs lick a clock. At ABANA converence this year he had a pink hammer he rebuilt for a customer in Florida. He said pink was not his color of choice but that is what the customer ordered. Not sure what the color with oil and grease after a few years of use will look like. As for the motor size My personal opinion is if you are planning on working out of a cold shop in the IA winter 1 HP might be a little light when things are stiff from the cold. If using V belts hang a second set on the frame when you install the first so when you need to change you dont have to take things aprt again. Definately put some type of brake Most use a band around the flywheel with linkage that goes off when the treadle is depressed. Somewhere I have pictures of Phil's hammer. Are you going to Scott County, IA, hammerin? Steve White is the demonstrator. I may not make this it year. Just got word Rick Furer is the UMBA demonstrator last weekend in Feb at Beloit, IL. He does damascus and heat treating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 What dies you need depends on what you are planning to do with it. Did I miss where you mentioned how you plan to use it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob S Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 Here are some photos of the hammer. It was first bought in 1916. It appears to have what some call plow dies. I reckon I should switch these out?? I would buy a set of dovetail adaptors from Sid. They fit into the top and bottom dovetail and then stay there. Make your own dies easily with matching edges, radius/ etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger604 Posted December 14, 2010 Author Share Posted December 14, 2010 Lets see....How will I use the hammer...well I could be a real smart ass on that one... I am doing some real basic things, may make a blade or two. I broke both wrists years back so I am really looking for a tool to keep me going if I tire out. I think drawing dies would be the best bet. I do like the thought of Sid's bolt on dovetail so I could interchange dies at some point. 781...I am the Park Manager at Scott County Park. I have set up a shop in my garage but use the Pioneer Village as well. Most likely will see you in the spring at Hammer In. I am signed up for Sid's class in March, so I look forward to learning about the adjustments and such. Yea, I tend to be an overbuilder, I was looking at a 1.5HP since the cost is not much differant, and I have access to a nice discount at the Grainger distributor in Davenport. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 Can you get a fan cooled sealed motor? Most smithies are tough on open winding motors---especially if you will be grinding near them! For your planned use a very moderate set of drawing dies might be good---if you were going to run a ton of billets through it aggressive dies might be better. OTOH a good set of flat dies with a tool holder can handle a LOT of various tasks! "Go not to the blacksmithing forums for advice for they will tell you both yea and nay, it depends and more info please!" (a saying of the Noldor) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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