Ranger604

Looking for new jaws for a 6 1/2 inch Columbian bench vice. I found the vice in a scrap plie with nothing wrong but both jaws broken. Sure would like to save it versus scrap it!!

I hear you on the expenses adding up...but only you can calculate the risk. IMO, damaged tools are dangerous and repaired ones are too. Last point here...how much work can you accomplish injured??? Just sayin'.... See what Sid/Keri have at LG. maybe look into the bottom die being one of his interchangables??

I know that Little Giant is making their dies from 4140. Look at the LG website. Sid makes an interchangable die set. The base is keyed in and the die faces are hex bolted into place. Might give you an idea as welding is kinda permenant. Just an opinion...

I just got back from Sid and Keri's class on rebuilding LG hammers. Great class, fantastic hosts. All the others in the class were wonderful people too. He does have a $95 DVD on rebuilding that is top notch as a class won't come around until next March. Of course as you have already experienced they will answer all sorts of questions and have expertise to offer. I bought a 25# that needs rebuilt and am now assembling all the materials for the rebuild. Glad I took the class, I feel ready to take on the task.

edited by me

If it gets dusty....there is the emergency Guinness!!!

Hi Greg. There is a Place in your neck of the woods...Shake Rag Alley in Mineral Point WI has classes there at differant times. March 26 and 27 at Scott County Park's Pioneer Village there is a hammer in. The park is north of Davenport Iowa. My link link is the parks, nothing listed on the hammer in. Check the UMBA website for further info on the event. Good luck and welcome!

Check out the Feb/March issue of MotherEarth News. Fella there has an article and is a smithy. www.motherearthnews.com/charcoal

I am curious, who makes touchmarks? I have done some looking around at blacksmith web sites and find nothing noting the sale of them. I would be curious to know who registers them and with who do you register them with? I think if I go to the work and expense of a 'mark', I want exclusive use of it. Oh, so to answer the original question, no I don't mark and date my items....yet!

My question is a simple one from a guy learning. My post in no way is to attack Diamondback in a public forum, as you infer.

I am sure it is simple, I know it has been done. I enjoy my Diamondback, 2 burner a lot. Tried some forging, very briefly when I could not get past orange color on the steel. I had the needle valve full open and the regulator set at 7 - 8 psi. My guess is I need to pump the fuel to it and boost the psi. What psi should I start at and where or what psi should I not pass? Any other hints will recieve hardy thanks!!! I was trying to weld 3 or 4 pcs of 1/8th rounds and am using anti-borax welding flux.

Lets see....How will I use the hammer...well I could be a real smart ass on that one... I am doing some real basic things, may make a blade or two. I broke both wrists years back so I am really looking for a tool to keep me going if I tire out. I think drawing dies would be the best bet. I do like the thought of Sid's bolt on dovetail so I could interchange dies at some point. 781...I am the Park Manager at Scott County Park. I have set up a shop in my garage but use the Pioneer Village as well. Most likely will see you in the spring at Hammer In. I am signed up for Sid's class in March, so I look forward to learning about the adjustments and such. Yea, I tend to be an overbuilder, I was looking at a 1.5HP since the cost is not much differant, and I have access to a nice discount at the Grainger distributor in Davenport.

Here are some photos of the hammer. It was first bought in 1916. It appears to have what some call plow dies. I reckon I should switch these out??

I finally found a good deal (all relative, HUH?) on a 1930's LG25. No power source though. It ran on a line shaft system in the day. It came from a blacksmith shop that operated in the 1930's and 40's in Kellog, Iowa by the Hammer brothers. NO JOKE, their name is Hammer. I bought it from the nephew, who is 80 years old. Had a great time buying it too, spent several hours talking hunting, fishing and 'smithing. Got the hammer for $1000 and it was easy location for me, 2 hours from home. 1) What motor do I need? Wanting to stay 110 due to my electrical and space limitations at my residence. What RPM is needed? HP? 2) Ideas on mounting the motor to it? Pulley system? Stay with the line shaft type pulleys? Convert? 3) Would love any further history, written, photos whatever on the Kellog, IA blacksmith shop. I really like the history to the hammer. And of course any other good opinions are welcome... I think a trip to Sids is in order to the rebuild class to further my knowledge as well. Photos to come...

Awesome piece!! Thanks for the photos too!!

Would love to see some general step photos of this. So many great ideas shared here for us rookies!!

The big change on RR property came on 9/11/2001. RR's carry so many differant things that would make a great terrorist target. Food, fuel, coal, solvents, liquid nitrogen, you name it. Sit at a RR crossing and watch the containers go by. I too spent many a day, hunting and trapping along RR right-of-way. It was a great resource, now a great refuge.

My experiences and career have charted me on being a vigilent safety minded person. One day a breech in safety led me to two broken wrists. That was 15 years ago. Yes that sucked big time!!! When I started smithing a couple years back, I tried working with gloves, safety from burns and such. Now I get some arthritis in my wrists anyway, but with a lot of hand work (hammering) my wrists would ache. I found my ability to control my hammer was less and less as my forging time ticked away. I generally had to stop after acouple of hours and the next day my wrists were achey. I decided to skip the glove on my hammer hand one day. It made all the differance. My grip and control is better than ever, and I can forge away for 5 and 6 hours. And no arthritic issues the next day (some due to better strength from smithing). But safety glasses and ear plugs remain in place. Glove for the holding hand. Hammer safe.

Slightly off topic, but because there was some forge welding happening here, I feel free.... What is a good all around flux to use? It looks like there are many to choose from. Typically I am just using good steel stock from my local steel supplier. Wolfshiedrx, very nice project. Hopefully this will place you in good graces in the house for the next tool you 'need' for blacksmithing!!

I think you got a great deal!!! Looks like there is a ton of life in it too. Enjoy it!

I am new to 'smithing for the most part. So pardon my ignorance, but what do we use the flypress for? Guy should know, in case he should have one!!

Let's see, what little sayings fit. If it looks like a duck, and quacks like a duck.... If it is supposed to smell like a fish, but smells like a garbage can.... I am no expert, but I see suspicious lines and demarcations. It looks like a scam anvil, one hit and it will crumble. My opinion only. I am a suspicious person by nature.

This is supposed to be fun so I seek the challenge. I am self taught as my work interfers way too much to attend any classes. Thanks for the insights and if anything works ... or even if it doesn't I will keep all up to date. As they say, "I gotta try man!!!, It's in my blood man!!!"

Any one ever forge copper in with steel? I am thinking of 1/8th steel rod with a single 1/8th copper rod. create a braclet out of a damascus type forging. My son is getting maried and I am thinking of forging a very special gift for the bride and the mothers. Ain't I a sap!! LOL!!