Hey all,

I just got a request for a blanket pin (Penannular brooch) that the customer wants to also act as a flint striker.

Specs are around 3" diameter (so he can get at least 3 fingers in it while using as a striker)

Any ideas?

I was thinking perhaps an Omega shape, flattened on top for the Penannular. The pin portion is pretty straightforward.

Should I heat treat? What color should I let it run to?

Depending on how this turns out, it could end up being a production run.

Thanks,

David

Hey all,

I just got a request for a blanket pin (Penannular brooch) that the customer wants to also act as a flint striker.

Specs are around 3" diameter (so he can get at least 3 fingers in it while using as a striker)

Any ideas?

I was thinking perhaps an Omega shape, flattened on top for the Penannular. The pin portion is pretty straightforward.

Should I heat treat? What color should I let it run to?

Depending on how this turns out, it could end up being a production run.

Thanks,

David

I would just like to say that no self-respecting Celt would want to use their jewelry for a striker. It's got to stay Shiny dang'it!

They must be some sort of mixed up practical American mutt or something.


Now, to offer something constructive. I think you could do like you suggested and do File work around the outside of the ring, maybe flatten slightly all the way around, or you could make it out of square stock and do a pattern of twists all the way around for there to be a rough surface to make sparks. I made some small penannulars years ago like that with curls at the ends and a back and forth twist for the body. Made them out of 1/4 square stock mild. Don't know if you need to harden a striker, if so, you may want something with more carbon.

Best regards,
Tim
A self-respecting Celt (mostly)

I agree with the shiny part (I'm a medieval re-enactor, militantly proud of my Scottish Ancestry).

The customer is a Wilderness Survival and Self-reliance instructor. He likes to have(as do I) items that serve more than just one purpose. Keep your blanket closed like a cloak *and* be able to start your fire, while still looking stylish? Sounds like a winner to me!

Thanks Tim. I appreciate the input

David

The striker part needs to be as hard as you can get it. If you make the piece from an old file it will be too brittle and easily broken; an old spring will work best.
I would have thought that, if it's cold enough to light the fire one would need to keep the blanket tightly wrapped.

The problem with a striker in jewelry is it needs to be very hard, relatively high carbon steel for striking, and jewelry is usually softer as softer metals are more interesting. The act of striking is using a stone to peel a small piece of the steel off.

I would form the pin as a striker, instead of the rest of the piece. It will be small though, and probably need to be removable. Strikers only need about 1/8 inch of width and enough meat to grab onto to work. It is not going to be an excellent striker since you need to temper it some or it will crack in its primary service keeping your customer dressed.

Phil

I would have thought that, if it's cold enough to light the fire one would need to keep the blanket tightly wrapped.

Using a wool blanket as a cloak is useful even as warm as 50 degrees F. Nice thing about wool is its ability to retain heat even when wet, so if it's cold and raining (good time to light a fire) it will keep you warm and dry long enough to get your fire going.

The problem with a striker in jewelry is it needs to be very hard, relatively high carbon steel for striking, and jewelry is usually softer as softer metals are more interesting. The act of striking is using a stone to peel a small piece of the steel off.

I would form the pin as a striker, instead of the rest of the piece. It will be small though, and probably need to be removable. Strikers only need about 1/8 inch of width and enough meat to grab onto to work. It is not going to be an excellent striker since you need to temper it some or it will crack in its primary service keeping your customer dressed.

Phil

Phil,

This is going to be a purely utilitarian piece...read here form *and* function.

If possible, I was thinking of making the penannular in a sort of flattened at the top Omega shape(with a very tight twist, then re-flattened) good and hard at the striker portion and a bit softer for the non-striker areas.

I like your idea of using the pin itself as the striker. Might run that by the customer. Maybe a bit wider than the 0.125" you spoke of. maybe 0.1875" or as wide as 0.25" but only 0.125" thick.

Thanks for all your assistance guys. It really helps the design process.

David

I have made some of both items (strikers and penannular brooches) and I think that it will be quite difficult to make either serve the function of the other satisfactorily. The idea sounds interesting but I fear the details will be disappointing. The pins on mine are just about 3/32" diameter and I can't see that working as a striker. I'd have to discourage him from going this route I think. I hope you can do it though... then maybe I could too!

I like the idea of having things serve a double duty, especially when you are out in the field. But I question the use of the pin as a striker. It seems it would be like wearing baggy pants and having your belt buckle also serve as a can opener. Novel idea but nobody wants to lose their britches while opening a can of beany weanies.

It probably will work great so long as the owner is not as uncoordinated as I am.

Good luck,
Mark<><

Make the brooch out of Ti?

Make the broach out of file steel and then harden in bacon grease. No tempering required. I've made lots of them this way and not a one has broken. Perhaps the side worn toward the body could be the strike surface and not mar the show side.
Gobbler

Make the brooch out of Ti?

The customer has specifically requested carbon steel.

Plus with Carbon steel, not only would the use of flint be good (hopefully), but a good sharp edge could be used with a ferrocium rod. (amazing how well a shower of 3000^oCelsius sparks work when starting a fire.

Well, crappy weather today so no forging, but tomorrow looks promising.

David

Hi David,
I recon the file is the way to go. I just want others to consider the fact that sometimes the fire is to warm the chilli beans and not the human beans. You could also mahe the brooch head from a forged file(or sim.)and the pin from RR spike. Post some pics. please.
Good luck Ian

I'd use mild for the broach and pin.

Fashion a Decorative piece out of file or spring and use copper rivets to fasten it to the broach.

This way the broach would be durable and the striker hard enough for the fint to work against.

my .02

If you can find some W-1 drill rod, it'll work great, and don't overlook round files, like the larger chainsaw files.

I would keep the hard section on either end and leave the rest softer. I'm afraid if you hardened the whole loop, it would eventually break. Full hard 1095 or W-1 doesn't have much flex to it.

I like this idea. Keep us posted with pictures as you work through it.

I've been making a few heart shaped steels out of W-1. I forge the heart just like Brian B. taught us on here, then harden 'em. They look and work great.

Don

One of my students gifted me with a penannular he made with a twist pattern damascus for the brooch and a mokume sword for the pin and the ends of the brooch had silver caps with dangling on fine chains an anvil and hammer in silver. Perhaps something like that for your customer?

It was on display at Quad-State.

Use a large quilting or embroidery needle for the broach pin. Triple duty, it usualy pays to give the customer mor than he expected.

David,

I know that this example probably has more of a Nordic vibe to it than Celtic, but I was thinking something like this with the flared ends hardenend: