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I Forge Iron

A new arrowhead


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well I haven't made an arrowhead in about a year and with hunting season upon us I will be going bow hunting for the first time this year with my uncle and i wanted us to have some handmade arrows to make the whole experience more personal so here's the first experimental one with 20 some more on their way...specs: 2 inch o.a.l. weight is .5 ounces and max width is .5 inches...so what do you guys think? all comments/ questions are welcome

post-8703-023339700 1286150608_thumb.jpg

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Hunting is different from re-enacting since the goal is a humane kill. To that end, a large multibladed broad head would be a better choice - even if you make it yourself. Blunts are better for small game; big bloodletters are best for large game.

I totally agree..I forgot to mention that both sides of this head are sharpened but this one would be for smaller game...I'm thinking maybe a swallow tail or one of those curved (axe shaped) heads but what do you think? would this work?
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Well sure it would work! I've driven blunts clear through big blue grouse with an old 40 pound recurve! Even grouse can be tough though, I have shot more than one several times before I bagged him. Amazingly I have seen blue grouse that we followed about until we had bagged the whole flock (7 birds) and also large groups that would fly away at 500 yard ranges. They can vary wildly in their caution levels. Good eating the young birds but some real old ones are at least as tough as shoe leather.

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It's a great looking point, but as a bowhunter for 30+ years I don't think it should be used in a hunting situation. The way an arrow kills is by massive blood loss. I use a 2 or 3 bladed broadhead with a minmum cutting radius of 1.5 in. An other issue is the blade should be razor sharp. I am a bowhunter education instructor and we demonstrate this in class by taking a new razor sharp head and pushing it through a hole in a board with rubber bands streched across the hole. The rubber bands are very similar to blood vessels. The new blade will cut most of the rubber bands. We then take the same head push it one time into a coffee can filled with sand. Then repeat the rubber band test. The head will no longer cut the rubber bands. In bowhunting you are going to take the life of an animal. I think you owe it to the animal to do it as quickly as possible. the taking of an animal with bow and arrow is a challenge and any animal taken with a bow is a trophy. That should not be deminshed just because you didnt make the arrow head.
Good luck on your hunt what ever head you decide to use.

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Nice bodkin, but I have to agree that broadheads are a faster bleed out, I totally believe in a clean fast kill. Remember, just because we can make one, doesn't mean its the best choice to use it for this. But still you made a very nice bodkin, your father will be proud when you show him.

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The basic shape to me looks like it will drop out of the wound fairly easily. The "traditional" arrowhead shape is designed so that once it goes in it stays in doing more damage as it gets knocked about during the flight of the animal. A bit gruesome but in a "tis no kindness to hang a man slowly" sort of way.

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The basic shape to me looks like it will drop out of the wound fairly easily. The "traditional" arrowhead shape is designed so that once it goes in it stays in doing more damage as it gets knocked about during the flight of the animal. A bit gruesome but in a "tis no kindness to hang a man slowly" sort of way.

so would you recommend a barbed head then?
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here is a link to the FABA clinker breaker 2009-06 page 3 has pictures of Viking arrow heads made by Elmer Roush http://www.blacksmithing.org/CB-Archive/2009/2009-06-cb.pdf I think the one on the bottom is what your looking for

sweet! thanks Jim!
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The head looks great! I also echo some of the other comments and suggest you review the game laws in the area you want to hunt and the specifics for the species; the laws can vary a great deal. In many localities barbed heads are illegal; but the back end can bevel back at a more acute angle. Kind of hard to explain....a review of some of the commercially available shapes as well as the local game laws will "point" you in the right direction. Also, what kind of bow will you be hunting with? Traditional bows such as longbows get better penetration using a flat double edged "cut on contact" head vs. multi blades due to the lower velocities. Nice smithing!

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  • 9 months later...

I will jump in as another bowhunter. Your design would work fine for small game (Nice job by the way). There is nothing saying you can not make your own broadheads just follow the minimum requirments set out in your hunting regulations. Barbed heads are a big no in some areas. A call to the local wildelife office will get you all the information you need.

Try to keep the size and weight the same between all your heads this will improve your accuracy when the time comes to harvest game. Hand forged and tempered broadheads has a nice sound to it. By the way welcome to the bowhunting world you will never have any more frustration and fun at the same time :D
Brad

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  • 2 weeks later...

Anti, I've killed a pile of deer with homemade bows and arrows, but not with forged heads, (yet). Having an exit wound is vastly better than having the arrow remain in the deer. If you make a head 3/4 to 7/8" wide by about 2 3/4" long , weighing 125 - 175 grains, and get it really sharp, it will kill any deer in North America if properly placed in the vitals. Even with a 40# bow. By all means , have at it. John

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  • 3 months later...

sorry if i miss spell my english is not very good but i think is great here in Toledo i have learn how to forge arrowheads and that is a great arrowhead but depending on what you hunting but try making the point a little more wide that is a great arrowhead good luck on your hunting

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Yep, in Virginia your point must be at least 7/8" wide. Barbs aren't specifically addressed here, but they're illegal in many states.

One of the Traditional Bowyer's Bibles (Vol. 2, maybe?) talks about making your own steel hunting points. They end up looking very much like commercial broadheads. Very thin, very sharp, no forging involved.

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