Homokinetic coupling steel

[jet45papa]

Hello out there!
I have this question; the steel balls from the homokinetic joint (or coupling) from cars and pick-ups, Can also be used for welding casting or foundry?
My old man does have a mechanic shop and they do throw away several pieces of steel every month. I was thinking in picking up the steel that appears to be of higher quality (camshaft valves, steel chromed balls, etc) so i can make a cast for a nice knife.

is there any problem?
are there any complications?

Every thought and comment are welcome!










Thanks to all that make this forum still going on!

PD: I dont know if im in the right place to make the question. if im wrong please, let me know.

[edge9001]

avoid the valves, I've heard bad things can happen. as for casting for a knife, not a good idea IMO to use cast metal for a knife. round or bar stock makes a good blade though. if you have access to a mechanics shop for their leftovers, then I would suggest looking for leaf springs for blades.

others may offer more suggestions on how you might uses cast metal for a blade though

[MattBower]

I know of people who cast knives, but they are few and it's much harder than forging. It's not the place to start.

[pkrankow]

Valves sometimes have sodium metal in them. Be positive of their pedigree or pass.

Bearings are often 52100, an excellent knife material for forging. The balls in that knuckle should be the same.

Cam shafts should be forgeable and high carbon. Serious cross section to break down though.

All the fasteners are good, get the spent head bolts, they are medium carbon, decent length and good for many many things besides sharp pointies. Key fobs and other knick knacks are easy from them.

You will run into stuff you think is good forgable steel and find it is cast iron and it will crumble or be splashy. Be careful.

Phil

[Charles R. Stevens]

All kinds of good steel in a car, the halfshaft that come attached to those CV joints, sway bars, springs, steering linkage, the rods out of shockabsorbers, axle shafts, imput and output shafts in transmitions, baring races, stickshifts. Then their is all the sheet metal and cast iron, aluminum and copper for the foundrymen.

[Sweany]

http://www.aescustomknives.com/docs/tutorial16.htm



http://www.anvilfire.com/FAQ-article.php?bodyName=/FAQs/junkyard_steel.htm&titleName=Blacksmithing%20and%20metalworking%20FAQ%20from%20anvilfire.com

http://ajh-knives.com/metals.html

http://www.knivesby.com/knifemaking.html


Try a cannister weld, chuck all the bits in a can and weld em up. I hope the links helps

[mashin' metal]

avoid the valves, I've heard bad things can happen. as for casting for a knife, not a good idea IMO to use cast metal for a knife. round or bar stock makes a good blade though. if you have access to a mechanics shop for their leftovers, then I would suggest looking for leaf springs for blades.

others may offer more suggestions on how you might uses cast metal for a blade though

especially if you happen to grab some sodium filled ones

[Frosty]

Avoid the chromed stuff, hexavalent chrome is a strong carcinogen and happens when you get chrome red or hotter. It isn't the danger if it's part of an alloy such as chromoly but turning plating into fumes is a BAD thing to breath.

Frosty the Lucky.

[Sweany]

hexavalent chrome.
YEP, that's why I don't weld anymore, it like to killed me 12 years ago.

[Frosty]

hexavalent chrome.
YEP, that's why I don't weld anymore, it like to killed me 12 years ago.

OUCH! Glad you got out in time! I used to do a lot of hazardous welding and have a supplied air welding helmet. Yeah, helmet, not welding shield, a 3M Whitecap II.

Frosty the Lucky.

[jet45papa]

WOW Thanks a LOT!!!
I will definitely stay away from valves and chrome plated stuff.
As for springs, i can get some of those, i think its a lot easier to forge one of those.
I also found a bar from the suspension, its like 1 1/2" thick.
I will post a picture, of that large piece (like 1 yard long) again, i dont know wich steel it is made of, but if you said its ok i wil believe so.

Thank you every one! this is my first post, so it means a lot to me.

[Nik Hintz]

In regards to valves being sodium filled, unless you are getting parts from something truly exotic,(Ferrari...) only the exhaust valves would be Na filled. Intake valves don't see near as much heat so they are just good steel (don't know what grade). I have had good luck making burnishers, scrapers, and gravers from briggs and stratton valves.

Has anyone tried a tumbler (rock polisher) and some sort of abrasive media to remove chrome plate? Seems like it should work.

[Frosty]

A tumbler would do the trick but it'll leave you with finely divided chromium dust. Grinding and polishing chrome isn't too healthy so you'd need to take special precautions opening and cleaning out the tumbler and don't forget the dust will get on everything from your clothes to anything down wind.

I prefer using diluted sulphuric acid. Using proper precautions and PPE is a must but on the up side getting a little on you isn't going to surprise you some years later, it'll let you know right away. It's also easy to neutralize even if in an emergency a garden hose will go a long way toward limiting damage.

On the subject of dangerous plating metals do NOT mess with Cadmium plated anything outside the piece's intended use. The gold colored bolts, nuts, etc. are often cad plated and cadmium is extremely toxic AND a carcinogen. Being a heavy metal it's almost impossible for your body to expel and will get you. Don't weld it, heat it with a torch or forge, don't grind it and NEVER use it in diving/breathing equipment.

Frosty the Lucky.

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

One not even close to exotic engine that I know has sodium cooled exhaust valves are the 1960's GMC V-6's they ranged in size from 305-472 cid. Yep, you read right V-6 not V-8. I know in 1965 GMC didn't offer a V-8. One inline 6, and the rest were V-6's.

Radial aircraft engines also used Sodium cooled valves. Dad told me that when he was in the Air Force the SOP for the mechanics was to bury the old valves out back of the maintenance shops.

I doubt that you will find many sodium cooled valves today.