Zapsteel Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 For the horn maybe you could get a piece of of a demolition buster hammer shaft, they range from 2-6" diameter at the very least and I think are made from AR 500, made for impact/abrasion or abuse as some call it, probably could get broken section cheap or free to make prototype!Latest revisions with a really cool "nosing tool". Ya notice the farther we go with this the more it "looks" like an anvil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judson Yaggy Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 Whaddya mean when YOU go to Barbados? Aren't we all invited out of a portion of our shares? Your new base is much more logical by the way. Well done Grant and everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 So, I guess one of these with no tools in it might be called a "naked anvil", huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 Arftist: Just because it's on the computer doesn't mean its's REAL. I will probably make a prototype before the end of the year. "Is the horm mild steel or also tool steel"? I don't know, what would you like it to be? "What steel would the inserts be made from"? I'd expect to use 4140 for the hard inserts and A-36 for the mild inserts. "Will you be selling blanks as well? In both tool and mild steel"? That would be the idea. I would like the option of a tool steel horn that I could aneal and machine to the shape I want and then harden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 I was thinking of a heat treatable horn (like 4140 or 4340), but I would leave it unheat treated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 If you notice a couple revisions back, I had everything you need to have a good time and still had one slot open. I filled it with a neat tool, but it got me to thinking. So now I went to just three dovetails and made the center one larger. As shown now, it has a nice big flat die, (3-1/2 X 8) Which will probably never be taken out anyway so it doesn't need to be the same size dovetail as the others. I shortened it a little to 28" and went to 3-1/2" plate. Really want to settle down to a design and get it cut out so I can actually make one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustyshackleford Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 the knee-jerk reponse is to say put it back to four slots. Then, thinking about it for another 20 seconds, I remember that the 4th slot would just be a 'holder' for whatever die is in it. I say this because no matter what you're making, you're not going to need all four tools in one heat (one of the three can be changed while material is heated). Not if you're working efficiently anyway. Would you agree with this defense of using three? It's smarter for you too since it means less dovetailing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstermetal Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 mmmm So If I came up with enough material to make two prototypes could I keep one for long term testing purposes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 It's not really that much different amount of material removal. Really, once it's in the machine I'll be off doing something else. Machine time takes on a different meaning when you're a one man shop with automatic (CNC and older automation) machines. Heck, I've had five machines going at once. Mostly I got the feeling that people wanted a larger flat area, and I tend to agree. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavala Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 Now if only I could set up my lathe to mill out dovetails. The market possibilities are great anvil/swage block. Offer dishing inserts half rounds etc. Blankswe could weld your spring swages to or texturing tools. This could become one of the most versital tools in a metal shop. Get ta work you might get to Barbados yet. Thanks Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Leppo Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 Would you consider eliminating the overhanging offset at the near end of the base. If you make the prictle hole tangent to the end of the base, it may have enough support. Or, make another clean-out hole under it similar to the hardy hole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNewman Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 I think 3 dovetails are fine even though I think 4 is better. But I think that the center dovetail should be the same width as the others so that the tools are fully exchangable. There is not a huge amount of torsion on that flat die so even with the smaller dovetail you could go with the longer die. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 Goatman: Well, a lot of times I want to knock a drift all the way through. I don't see any disadvantage to the overhang. John: Well, I don't think anyone will probably ever be taking the flat die out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 I thought you were retired Grant! Just giving you a hard time... I really don't believe in retirement either. I'd as soon burn out as rust out myself. You are always thinking aren'tcha? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 I AM retired! That's what allows me to play with this kind of thing. Quit thinkin', you might as well be dead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstermetal Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 Do you think there would be a market for just the tooling? So you would sell the guy what ever top chunks he wanted and include a cad file of the base so he could take it in to his local burning outfit. That way a guy could add mass, maybe cut it out of 4" plate if he wanted and you wouldn't have to ship 300lbs across the country. Could you build all the taper in the "tool" and make the slot in the base square? Of course still offer a finished anvil as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 Well Larry, burning it out would not be an option, it would have to be machined. Yeah, shipping is a big factor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstermetal Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 (edited) Yeah I suppose the savings in doing a run of bases would offset the shipping cost . Maybe you could break the base into two parts that bolt together to get under the 150 lb ups shipping limit? Edited December 1, 2009 by monstermetal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 That would be adding a big cost to save a little cost, I think. Right now, I pay about $1.00 per pound to ship UPS to the east coast. I think I can do better than that by truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstermetal Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 Yeah I guess it is an issue of target retail price. If the thing sells for $2500 an extra $350 for shipping is not a big deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 (edited) Well, the size of the base is chiseled in stone now, I just ordered two pieces. Be here next Tuesday. I'll keep everyone posted with progress photos and my usual commentary. Hmm, better run some cutters down to be made into stubbies and dovetails. Then I gotta start on some milling fixtures and........... Edited December 2, 2009 by nakedanvil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted December 2, 2009 Author Share Posted December 2, 2009 Populated as shown in the last drawing, the weight works out to just about exactly 350 pounds. That alone puts in in the class of a real workhorse. At $1,400.00 it would still be one of the cheapest new anvils around. I had hoped to do it cheaper than that, but every time I run the numbers it looks about the same. I suppose at that price a person ought to expect a nicely tapered horn at least. Well, all I can do is put it out there and see what the reaction is, I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstermetal Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Shoot if you can make money selling them for $1400 Id say that's a bargain for anyone looking for a real working tool.... $4/lb for a anvil that versatile would be unmatched. Granted for the hobbyist $1700 with shipping might seem like a lot.... but its not a hobbyist anvil. One hurtle I can see is just the look of it. I am not one of them but I know a lot of "blacksmiths" who want there shop to look period correct, part of the mystic draw of having a blacksmith work for you is that 100 year old shop with that old time look.... Just like the guys selling trinkets at the street fair want the people to believe those "hand forged" items where all made by hand in a coal forge ( but because the smith wants to eat and pay rent he has a gas forge and a powerhammer).... Anyway I might get badmouthed for such a comment but I say screw the traditionalists. My feeling is that if a smith 200 years ago had access to a CNC machining center and a TIG welder he would be more than happy to embrace the technology... I would be real surprised to meet any professional (read trying to make a living at it) smith that wasn't interested in doing the best work he could with the least amount of effort Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted December 2, 2009 Author Share Posted December 2, 2009 (edited) Now I'm working on where to pepper this thing with holes. Want to be able to add accessories to it later. Just below the dovetails I'm putting a row of 1/2-13 tapped holes and a couple 1" holes for maybe a sliding table/work rest. between the dovetails on top I'm putting a couple of deep, large tapped holes. Why? Perfect place to install two columns for a little air striker/hammer. Maybe 25lb, long stroke, single blow? The ram would have bushings and ride up and down on the columns. That'ed be fun. Be nice if it could go on and off real quick. Yeah, just thinkin'. Edited December 2, 2009 by nakedanvil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted December 2, 2009 Author Share Posted December 2, 2009 (edited) Ooo, just realized that the little hammer should be a self contained unit with it's own base/bottom die that just goes in the dovetail. That would be pretty "quick change". Now I suppose we need to move this thread to "power hammers". Edited December 2, 2009 by nakedanvil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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