Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Fabricated Anvil


Recommended Posts

You mean the little tabs like you can see on the hardy tool I turned upside down? Well, I did that to hold the dies on center rather than using center pins. They just hang down 1/4. When I refer to "wings" I'm usually talking about the rest of the die overhanging the dovetail on each side. Most power hammer dies rest in the dovetail whereas drop hammer dies usually bear on the wings.

Actually, 3-1/2 X 3-7/8, they start 3-1/2 X 4. The main block is 3" thick and the dies overhang 1/4 on each side.

Edited by nakedanvil
Link to comment
Share on other sites

O.K. so here we have revision #347. Nice horn, 3-1/2 X 6 flat die, hardy hole with a bolster hole and an overhanging tail. Making the horn longer inboard gives a nice drawing area. Drop a flat bar in the gap between the horn and the flat die and you get a nice inside corner. And there is still an empty pocket for a special tool.

19174.attach

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could make dies a shade longer and just put some pins in the end to center over the plate instead of wings.

I like this design, but wonder about the little wedge. Is that like something used in other equipment?

Could you make it so a hardy die can go into either end? or is that asking too much?

Phil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I understand the reason for the tabs I was just curious as to why you would rather use the tabs rather than a center pin which seems simpler. Either way I think the anvil looks good. There comes a point where everyone would do things slightly differently.

Phil you could put 4 hardy dies in and put 4 tools with hardy shanks in this anvil. 3 of them would have to be a little shorter but if you really wanted you could easily drill a hole under all the hardy holes

Edited by JNewman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, maybe I'll call it the ALO (anvil like object). Or maybe "Wackamo"!

This has sure been a great open design exercise. First post was 5 days ago and I really think it's about wrapped up and ready for a bow.

Edited by nakedanvil
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mostly size. The dies in my 1500 pound open die hammer were about 8 X 20 whereas the typical dies in my 1500 pound steam-drop were about 18 X 18 so the dovetail was only about 5 inches wide. We always made sure they were resting on the wings even if we were shooting for zero-zero.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The dovetails on my hammer are wider than the dies so the die does rest on the dovetail. From most of the work being done on the front of the dies the top die is tipped slightly forward and I had to machine a little off the back of the face on the die. At some point I am going to make some larger dies, Either 8x8 or 8x10 and I plan on making them rest on the wings and touch at the back on the dovetail. So it sounds like there will be nothing wrong with doing that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm really as thrilled with the process that went on here as I am with the result. It's way to easy to be too enthralled with your own ideas to see way to make improvements. Some people are overly concerned that someone will steal their idea. Almost never happens. But, I never worry about that kind of thing, I got way more ideas than time to do them anyway. Besides, "early adopters" depend heavily on their confidence in the producer. In my case there are folks out there who buy something because I made it. Wonderful position to be in and I don't take that confidence lightly. They expect, and I always try to provide, the best product for the money.

If I wanted to buy a hammer today, I wouldn't hesitate to buy one of John Larson's "Iron Kiss" hammers. I have the same sort of confidence in him. There are others out there building "utility" hammers, but no one spends the time on constant improvement as John.

Edited by nakedanvil
Link to comment
Share on other sites

PK: At this point the dies are 2" thick, so it wouldn't be a problem to make the shanks that long or even cut them to that length. The hardy hole shown is just in the "default" position.

Now I gotta work on Matt's vise attachment!

Price?? Hmm, well, as shown at 300 pounds I can't imagine it being less than $1,200.00.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Arftist: Just because it's on the computer doesn't mean its's REAL. I will probably make a prototype before the end of the year. "Is the horm mild steel or also tool steel"? I don't know, what would you like it to be? "What steel would the inserts be made from"? I'd expect to use 4140 for the hard inserts and A-36 for the mild inserts. "Will you be selling blanks as well? In both tool and mild steel"? That would be the idea.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The possibilities are endless, it's an amazing design "collabortion". Maybe also you can offer a large flattening plate, an option but I like large flat surfaces. Then again it's like buying a new car, what options would you like no frills or the whole package.
Sign me up I'll customize as I need. Who knows you can always offer custom machining for new dies.
Good work. Fun to watch the process.

Thanks Marc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a nice addition to the tail piece. Loose pins with different spacings. I could probably come up with a whole catalog of "gotta have" inserts.

I really want to thank everyone for all the help with this project. I'll be thinking of you when I go to Barbados!

19185.attach

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...