KYBOY Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 KYBOY, If your on the list better start eating your wheaties. Last one I looked at was over a ton without the frame Over 2 grand fob. Ken I dont really want the whole thing, Id be estatic with a 4' x 4' piece If I can get a part of it then my tractor with boom pole will be used to move it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragons lair Posted January 12, 2010 Share Posted January 12, 2010 Watch out for wheelies. Loader bucket and rear weights is better. Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Wargo New2bs Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 Thanks to all who contributed to this thread and who suggested forging your own tools as well. I was tempted to try the splitting wedge idea, but after the instructors at a blacksmith class I took donated a jack hammer bit, I went to work on it today and the results are attached. It did take me a tad longer than Grant's 30 minutes (measured in hours LOL), but I surely did get a sense of accomplishment. I'm sure my wife will be happy that she doesn't have to run hold the hatchet for me too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted January 18, 2010 Share Posted January 18, 2010 Handsome job. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monty Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 really interesting ideas, thanks!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 Thanks to all who contributed to this thread and who suggested forging your own tools as well. I was tempted to try the splitting wedge idea, but after the instructors at a blacksmith class I took donated a jack hammer bit, I went to work on it today and the results are attached. It did take me a tad longer than Grant's 30 minutes (measured in hours LOL), but I surely did get a sense of accomplishment. I'm sure my wife will be happy that she doesn't have to run hold the hatchet for me too. Good job mate! I probably worked too hard on the shoulder, you don't need all that much on a cutter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johngore Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 Hope this is a related enough question to post in this thread. Does anyone have a recommendation on salvage steel to search for to make hardy tools for a 1 1/8 hole? Im just starting out. One of my books says to use something at least 1/2 in larger - which means 1 5/8+. Thanks, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddog Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 Hope this is a related enough question to post in this thread. Does anyone have a recommendation on salvage steel to search for to make hardy tools for a 1 1/8 hole? Im just starting out. One of my books says to use something at least 1/2 in larger - which means 1 5/8+. Thanks, John I have a hardy hole of similar size. I put in an L shaped spacer to reduce it to 1". Much easier to find material for hardy tools. Easier to forge too. Any you can buy ready made anvil tools with a " shank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johngore Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 I got a truck axle shaft that is about 1 3/4, cut off the end and then cut out a section. Reformed (mangled) some tongs to hold the piece. Spent an hour tapering a square and managed to get an inch to fit into the 1 1/8 hardy hole. Man, it's a lot of pounding. I have not yet convinced my wife to man the sledge hammer, so will resume the pounding in the morning. Seems for a cutoff hardy, that it should fit very well, and formed of one piece. Perhaps other tools can be made from welded portions - but I thought I would try forging a single piece for the cutoff. -John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 Well, No. I have seen a lot of hardies made with with a section of steel tubing welded onto the "blade" section. Can you get your wife to hold while you sledge? Also I find it easier when I set off the area to be reduced with a butcher or fuller---helps me to concentrate on hitting only the area that needs to be hit---and makes a nicer "edge" for the part that will rest on the face of the anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYBOY Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 Hope this is a related enough question to post in this thread. Does anyone have a recommendation on salvage steel to search for to make hardy tools for a 1 1/8 hole? Im just starting out. One of my books says to use something at least 1/2 in larger - which means 1 5/8+. Thanks, John I have a hardy hole about the same size on my fisher anvil..Ive forged shanks before but to be honest I got lazy When we ordered some 1045 stock from speedymetals I just went ahead and orders square stock of the right size..They cut to length at no cost..Ready made hardy shanks.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted December 23, 2010 Share Posted December 23, 2010 I have a hardy hole about the same size on my fisher anvil..Ive forged shanks before but to be honest I got lazy When we ordered some 1045 stock from speedymetals I just went ahead and orders square stock of the right size..They cut to length at no cost..Ready made hardy shanks.. So how do you keep it from falling through the hole? If I was starting with material that just fit the hole, I'd just put a little joggle in it, you know: sort of a "Z" bend. Then I'd heat the bend a little and drive it down a bit before forging the blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYBOY Posted December 24, 2010 Share Posted December 24, 2010 So how do you keep it from falling through the hole? If I was starting with material that just fit the hole, I'd just put a little joggle in it, you know: sort of a "Z" bend. Then I'd heat the bend a little and drive it down a bit before forging the blade. Lisa stands there and hold's em' Though she does get awful tired No really, I mean for like bending forks and other hardy jigs where the actual tool is gonna be welded on.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backyard smith Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 I welded a piece of leaf spring to a hunk of square stock that fit my hardy hole. Was pretty simple. I will however be trying Grant's idea with the axle this spring. TC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marksnagel Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 So how do you keep it from falling through the hole? If I was starting with material that just fit the hole, I'd just put a little joggle in it, you know: sort of a "Z" bend. Then I'd heat the bend a little and drive it down a bit before forging the blade. The coil spring that I am using is a bit bigger in diameter than my hardy hole is wide. I didn't put a shoulder on it because when I forged it square it falls into the hardy and stops when it gets to it's original diameter. The only problem is that it does get tend to get stuck. But the shaft is longer than the hardy hole is deep so I can just tap the underside and it pops loose. Mark<>< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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