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Striker Hammer handle length


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My 10lb hammer had a 3foot handle I cut mine down to 2ft and it works great for me. But it may not work well for all. Maybe hold up on the hadle and swing it abit to see what feels good and maybe cut a little less than you think. You can always cut more off but not so easy to add the wood back on!! Just my thoughts.Have a great day!!!!
Gaylan

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If you strike the most used European way, the haft should be between 20" and 25" depending on a person's height and build. Also, remove the varnish, or whatever it is, from a newly purchased haft. Take it to bare wood. I use 1/2 turpentine and 1/2 boiled linseed oil mixed and rubbed in well for a finish.

By European method, I mean lifting the hammer up and swinging it down in it's own arc, not too unlike the way a hand hammer is used...except you're doing it two handed. No sideways swinging and no sliding the hand on the haft.

There is such a thing as a full around swing where both hands are near the end of the haft and the swing is circular by the side of the body. In that case, the haft can be longer than 24".

Turley Forge and Blacksmithing School

Edited by Frank Turley
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And misses are hell on tooling and anvils! (for the full circle swing).

My hammers that I can use semi one handed have the shortened long handles on them and the *heavy* sledges tend to have the long handles on them and not be used for forge work much.

(My wife came with a 17# crosspein hammer as her dowry...it has a long handle!, 9# is about the upper limit for me for a short handle)

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We never cut the handles, just choked up on them. The way we used a striker hammer was with the cross arm swing. If you are right handed you put your right hand up on the handle towards the head.Your left hand goes towards the rear. The cross part comes when you hold the handle along your right side. It sounds funny, but you have a lot of control with the swing. It isn't a full overhead swing, basically up 90 degrees-or less depending on weight, then down.

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Like everything else - work with it a bit - examine how it does and adjust according to your personal style and needs.

For myself, I strike choked up on the handle when we're in close and go full arc (only with smiths I'm REAL used to working with) when we're moving big metal. For that reason I keep my striking hammer handles full length.

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I worked with one old guy who had been a helper for nearly 50 year! Truth was, by todays standards he was a pretty decent smith too. When we needed striking, it was usually for some pretty hard slogging. Well, he held the sledge with both hands on the bitter end, no sliding. He always started with the hammer head on the anvil horn. When a blow was required he'd pull the hammer toward himself so it came off the anvil and fell groundward. Using that initial impetus, he would take a "round house" blow! Never saw him miss what he was aiming at either.

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Hey Grant,

Yeah, that's old school alright - I don't have the stones to do a full arc swing while staying on the bitter end of the handle :o

I usually swing hammer for Dean Moxley ( a fellow NWBA member) - we get a good solid rhythm going but I like that fella way too much to risk giving him a full force shot to the ol' noggin!

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I have an 18 lb straight pein and an 8 lb sledge, both full handled. I've done some striking and had the kids I've taught do some though never full swing.

I'm reasonably sure I can pull it off and not miss, I've been nailing splitting wedges a long time. Still, I don't think I'll give it a full swing shot, wedges are cheap, anvils aren't.

Frosty

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