Dan Smillie Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 Hi, I'm just starting out and the other day got my first real anvil, woo-hoo! like a kid with a new toy. The wife thinks Iv'e got a new girlfriend. But......there's always a but isn't there? I know - I got it cheap and it has a few dings and chips out of the edges. The guy I got it from said it's over a hundred years old and just lookin at it, I believe him. There's joins underneath which scare me to think about too, but it sounds intact when I dong it. Only markings are 0 3 0 on one side not sure if that's to do with the weight or what. I read the blueprint on repairing them and wonder what's the deal, will welding on the top, does it damage/soften the surface adjacent if applying hard facing? Can anyone shed som light on why this is a contentious issue? Thanks Dangerous Dan:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unkle spike Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 The only reason it is contentious is the two possible results: 1. An anvil that looks and functions like brand new. 2. An anvil that is ruined and is now junk. A. Popped top plate, that is impossible to re-attach as it was B. Soft surface that now dents at the lightest hammer blow. c. Welds that pop out of the dents or pits you were trying to fill. D. Improper heat treat/temper resulting in a soft surface, or removal of HT during Welding process. E. Some older anvils are actually upto 8 or 10 pieces Forge Welded together, during repair, this weld could seperate, resulting in upto 8 or 10 pieces of junk now lying on the floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Einhorn Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 Dan, There are a lot of factors in deciding whether to repair an anvil. The most important ones include whether the damage is so minor that it can be used as is, the skill of the smith in making repairs, and the historical value of the anvil. The general consensus seems to be that it is easy to damage an anvil, so that if you don't need to repair it, then don't. If you post a picture, I am sure that you will get opinions on the anvil's condition. If you have an anvil with high historic value, then repair is definitely not advised. If an anvil has been in your family for generations, or belongs to a museum, or you spent your wife's egg money on an anvil, then it is probably not worth the risk to try repairs. On the other extreme, if you have an anvil with extreme damage to the point of usability, then the decision would be based on whether you really wanted to invest the time repairing it or just go get a better anvil. Some people take pride in being able to say they took many hours to build or repair an anvil, others find more enjoyment in making things other than anvils. Between these two extremes are people that will clean up an anvil by making minor repairs, such as welding spots on the edges, gouges in the cutting area, and gouges in the horn. And that of course depending on the numerous factors mentioned above including skill level and experience in making repairs. The decision whether to repair an anvil is a decision likely to be made on a case by case basis. First try to use your anvil as it is. After that, if you are having problems with it either post a picture for input from the forum or seek out a smith/welder with experience in repairing anvils local to where you live. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragons lair Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 Weight marks 0 3 0 equals 84lbs. Most likley an old english anvil. Post pictures for better answers. Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.Bernard Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 Sounds like you want to USE this anvil and not just have it for sentimental reasons. We have repaired over a dozen anvils over the past few years and have had great success - even with poor welding. Some of these anvils in the 150 to 170lb range have taken a beating with some sledge hammering heavy metal with no problems. all of these anvils were done by the Rob Gunther method including prep, pre-heat, rods suggested (we used Stoody) and re-heat and slow cool. Follow his method and you should have no problems. Good luck David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trying-it Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 (edited) Just a thought, but some of those "few dings and chips out of the edges" may actually have been placed there on purpose by a previous owner/user. Use the anvil as is and see if occasionally those dings and chips work in your favor. I once machined a brand new vanadium cast anvil (raw casting, never trued B4 I started) and did a BP on that. Once done I took that anvil on a southern trip and showed it to Bill Epps as I wanted a few"proper" radiused edges applied by a real pro. Bill grabbed an angle grinder and sander and placed various sized radiused corners on appropriate edge places; then proceeded to grind a few grooves and notches along the edge here and there. Once finished, Bill looked me square in the eye and said, "and now I will show you how to use them too". Thanks Bill they do come in handy for "special" tasks. Edited July 23, 2009 by trying-it spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Smillie Posted July 26, 2009 Author Share Posted July 26, 2009 Thanks everyone, for your thoughts and advice, I certainly won't be rushing into things. The top plate has an inch long hair-line crack coming in from one edge and a 4 inch chunk out of one edge which is up to 1/2" wide and has clearly broken off through some past abuse. I dressed the tip of the horn, which had a compression bulge, presumably from landing on it's point. Uncle Spike, you have confirmed my suspicion that this anvil is forge welded from several parts, namely the horn, the tail and four feet all appear to have joins with the main body. I promise I will be extra careful if repairs happen. Unable to post pics at this stage. Thanks again, Dan :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yance Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 J; then proceeded to grind a few grooves and notches along the edge here and there. Once finished, Bill looked me square in the eye and said, "and now I will show you how to use them too". Thanks Bill they do come in handy for "special" tasks. Stan; Any chance you could post a few photos of those special grooves and notches, along with explanations of their uses? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian.pierson Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Original deleted.... I dressed the tip of the horn, which had a compression bulge, presumably from landing on it's point. Original deleted.... Dan The compression bulge might also have been done on purpose so the smith did not ram a leg or other body parts onto a sharp point. I have a Peter Wright that I jammed into my thigh when I first started. I had wanted to sharpen it originally when we redressed the face. The friend who got me started warned me against it. I am glad I listened for once. just a friendly FYI. Points can be dangerous when in a hurry so if you sharpened it be careful. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Far better to leave the horn blunt and make a bic for the hardy hole for items that need a small diameter to work them on. A "sharp" horn is a danger in the shop! Even a blunt one will provide some amusing bruising---"pretty like sunset". Since many smithies had soft floors and even modern commercial concrete didn't make a mark on my 134 HB when some students dumped it on it's nose, I doubt that such impacts made the bulge. (The floor however has a divot for the rest of it's life and one student is now banned from smithing as a danger to self and tools---this was his second chance and as it ended up with an ER run I decided not to allow a third!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragons lair Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 especially if your anvil is wrist high. Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hill Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 D, where can I find the info on the Rob Gunther method?....I'm curious now:) HillSounds like you want to USE this anvil and not just have it for sentimental reasons. We have repaired over a dozen anvils over the past few years and have had great success - even with poor welding. Some of these anvils in the 150 to 170lb range have taken a beating with some sledge hammering heavy metal with no problems. all of these anvils were done by the Rob Gunther method including prep, pre-heat, rods suggested (we used Stoody) and re-heat and slow cool. Follow his method and you should have no problems. Good luck David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yea3114u Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 Go to the Central Virginia Blacksmith Guild website here HOME and click How to Tips. You will find his anvil repair PDF there. Might also want to check this thread out http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f83/anvil-refacing-2466/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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