Dan Smillie

Thanks guys, I'll give it a go with the 1/4 or 3/8" leaf spring. I don't think mild steel would suit, besides I won't learn what spring steel is like to work. Here goes....

I am looking to make a new spring for a leg vice out of a automotive leaf spring. If I re shape it in the forge will i need any special cooling treatment to retain its springiness?

Thanks everyone, for your thoughts and advice, I certainly won't be rushing into things. The top plate has an inch long hair-line crack coming in from one edge and a 4 inch chunk out of one edge which is up to 1/2" wide and has clearly broken off through some past abuse. I dressed the tip of the horn, which had a compression bulge, presumably from landing on it's point. Uncle Spike, you have confirmed my suspicion that this anvil is forge welded from several parts, namely the horn, the tail and four feet all appear to have joins with the main body. I promise I will be extra careful if repairs happen. Unable to post pics at this stage. Thanks again, Dan :)

Hi, I'm just starting out and the other day got my first real anvil, woo-hoo! like a kid with a new toy. The wife thinks Iv'e got a new girlfriend. But......there's always a but isn't there? I know - I got it cheap and it has a few dings and chips out of the edges. The guy I got it from said it's over a hundred years old and just lookin at it, I believe him. There's joins underneath which scare me to think about too, but it sounds intact when I dong it. Only markings are 0 3 0 on one side not sure if that's to do with the weight or what. I read the blueprint on repairing them and wonder what's the deal, will welding on the top, does it damage/soften the surface adjacent if applying hard facing? Can anyone shed som light on why this is a contentious issue? Thanks Dangerous Dan:)