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I Forge Iron

Composite Blade Construction Walk Through


JPH

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Since Karl asked about how I did the composite "Serpent" pattern and I am not sure everyone followed my explantaion here are the first two pics of the basics.

Since most folks interested in this already know how to weld, laminate and split I am starting on the actual core building.

First photo is of the three cores, these are L-6, 1010/1018 and 200 series Stainless with 29 layers. The cores are 3/8" square and 22" long.

JPH

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The Next step is to pattern the two outter cores, and this is done, in this case by "mirror" twisting. The pattern I am going for will be what I call a "twist/counter-twist interupt" pattern for the two outside pieces. The centre core will be patterned next.

Now it is important that you get these twists as close to identical as possible..In the three core method like this, you have a lot of "room" to get creative. (There is another way to make blade cores that I call "book matching" where you partially split the core lengthwise and open the split and then weld the "seam" on the back side closed.. I will discuss this method at a later date)

These are the twisted, patterned cores..Next step is to do the centre core, the same basic pattern but "offset" so that there will be alternating "stars and bars" running down the centre section of the blade. I will post the next batch of photos later today once I get the centre core twisted and photographed.

JPH

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Hello:

In this photo the centre core is patterned, the same basic idea as the outter cores but off set so that the "stars and bars" do not alaign from piece to piece.

The next step is welding.

JPH

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Here are the three cores wired into place prior to welding. Note" the "edges" of the laminate are un the "flat" of the core section..This exposes the edges and will be seen as straight lines between the twisted sections on the finished blade.

Will post the welded core sometime tomorrow..

JPH

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Howdy!!

If any of yas have ANY questions at all, please by all means ask...I will be welding the cores later on today and doing the edge wrapping/steeling the edge and if I have time doing the welding of that as well.. Dunno yet, all dpeends upon what else I have "going one" around here..

So in a few hours look for a welded core photo or so...

JPH

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Hello:

Here is the next step, the cores welded into a solid piece..all that is left is to apply the edge material. I will do that sometime tomorrow, I hope, so expect an update then..

If you look closely (hard to tell with my photographic skills) you can see the twist and straight section in the core. These will be the patterning in the centre core...

JPH

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Jim,
Thanks for the demo. I hope I can work up to that:) Still only got the one billet under my belt. And as of this date, its still a billet. (lol) Too many irons in the fire and they're not all all made of metal;)

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Howdy!!

Here's the steel edge wired onto the core..this is a piece of 1060 that was bent around the rounded off tip section on the core and "snugged down tight" with a hammer. This was done hot. Now you have to get the tip as close as you can, really up tight against the core. This will make it a lot easier to do this "hairpin" weld.

You need to weld starting at the tip and work back.

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Here is the edging welded onto the core..

I use a "bsicuit" to help in welding the tip as this is one tricky weld and if you aren't careful and attentive you can both it. The biscuit keeps the thinner edge section hot longer and allows for more working time...

I welded the tip and then rough forged it to shape and the proceeded to weld down the length, overlapping and rough forging as I proceeded down the blade.

As it is this is now 24" long and 1 1/2" wide and 5/16" thick..Final forging to starting dimensions is next...I should do this tomorrow if time allows...

More as things progress...

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Jim,
You make it look so easy;) Awsome work! I can't wait to try it. Again, thanks for the demo-ing. BTW, I'm assuming you are hammering on the edge to weld the cores and edge then hammering flat again. Correct? Also, could you explain the "biscuit" and how it is used? Thanks -Dodge

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Dodge:

The "biscuit" is a piece of 3/4" thick mild steel round 2 1/2" dia roundstock..I heat this to approx 1900F and then I weld on that, once I place said biscuit on the anvil. This prevents the anvil from becoming a great big heat sink when doing the tip.

The first welding strike is tip down, hitting the centre core's opposite end., rock slightly to one side, strike again, rock to the oppoiste side, strike, flip over and weld both sides of the ogive, flatten two strikes and then flip and flatten the opposite side of the ogive. This flattening will help "push" the cores into the edging. This is a very tricky weld to make, but with practice it's not that bad really..

Using the biscuit I get about 20 seconds of welding time, which is a long time for a piece of this size before it cools down.

JPH

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Chuck:

Ok..I will admit I have been a tad remiss on this particular "project" the last few days as I had some leatherwork to do and some pieces to ship (gotta pay the bills ya know) and I have been trying to get my webiste cleaned up and organized, which is a total nightmare but it is coming along slowly. I really don't have a clue as to what I am doing but I think it's coming along OK.

As it sits..right now it is a rough forging..will take a photo later today and post it..the blade is pointing towards a early Migrationary style mounting as the blade is seeming to be coming out that way. Every one comes out a nit "different".... When it is finished I'll post pics...

App:

Layers?/ hum...lets see...around 122,000....that was 30 layers welded and cut into 4 and welded 6 times...mostly I keep the layer count to approx 450 or so on laminate and as far as sword cores, that varies..

JPH

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App:

by that point I am making really expensive 1080...you won't see any individual layers per sey but if you look just right you will see the weld seams...this is making shear steel..I make mine a bit differently than most others do...

As for the laminate layer count..all depends on what I am doing..450 layer or so gives a nice "vinrant" pattern and it is fine enough to be almost "culry maple like" in a pattern and yet not too fine to see...

On the N. European style PW like on this piece I am making I will used between 12 and 40 layers per bar in the faggot as these were traditionally quite "coarse" in the pattern...

JPH

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