Hi everyone!

I figured it's about time that I introduce myself. I've been reading this forum for a while now, and I'm impressed by the wealth of information available here.

I'm located in south-west Finland and I started to learn blacksmithing last fall. I initially got interested in the craft because I like making Puukkos (traditional Finnish knives). I made handles and sheaths for Puukkos and other knives, but I wanted to learn how to make the actual blade. Once I got started, I realised how enjoyable it is to be able to make your own tools. So far I only made one puukko blade, because I got carried way making tongs and some other tools. I really enjoy hammering.

During a course I took this spring I made my own hammer and what better way to introduce myself here than to introduce the hammer. The head is made of hot working tool steel (because that's what was available). The handle is made of birch and fixed in a traditional manner used here in Finland, using tar and quartz sand (that explains the black stains on the wood).

Nice looking hammer :-)
I am curious about the tar and sand though. We use either metal or wooden wedges here for handles, but never thought of tar and sand. How does that work out for you?

Welocme.

Nice Hammer, did you use a wedge on the handle?

Does the sand help the tar hold onto the handle?
I never heard of this method before. I'd like to try it.

Good job! and a great way to get started in blacksmithing!

Very Nice Work! Is that a traditional pattern in Finland?
Thank you for sharing you work with us.

Welcome! Very cool hammer:D

Pine tar or oil based tar?

Thanks for your comments!

About the tar method: I used a wooden wedge (oak) on the handle too. The tar and sand are supposed to act like a glue. It's done by smearing some pine tar onto the handle bit that goes into the head, heat it shortly over the fire, dip it into a bit of fine quarz sand and then shortly into the coal ashes of the fire and put the hammer head on. My teacher told me to file the head so it goes about two thirds through the head easily, the rest is then whacked in. The wedge gets the same tar and sand or ash treatment and is then hammered into the handle, cut or broken off and the the remainder of the wedge is used to hammer the bit that is in the handle a little deeper still. Then the handle is hammered a bit so it spreads over the wedge, locking it in even better. You can sort of see it a bit on the second picture.

I can't tell how it is holding in the long run because I made it only recently, but so far it's fine. All the hammers I have used in the classes before were factory made, so they were not fixed this way.

The head weighs 1580 g, by the way. I forgot to mention that earlier. I was aiming for 1,5 kg when I set out, but it's a bit hard to estimate where to cut, because I started with a longer piece of steel.

I don't know about the traditional Finnish pattern. I based the design on my teacher's hand-made hammer with some inspiration taken from Hofi's hammer design principles. I tried to keep the mass somewhat even on both sides of the handle and I was advised to keep the distance between the handle and the flat face short. The cross-pein is a little longer than I initially aimed for, but shorter than the one on my teacher's hammer. Don't know how traditional the design of his hammer is either. I guess that's how things evolve, copying from more experienced people with slight modifications.

Edited April 17, 200917 yr by napakettu

Welcome!!!
Nice work!
Yes, please explain the handle tar sand trick.
I've started using glue (sika flex) because wedges come loose with seasonal humidty changes aound here.

Sounds real similar to the old "cutler's resin"... 1/3 pine pitch, 1/3 bee's wax, 1/3 brick dust.
I have the ingredients on hand, I just haven't tried it yet.

Very nice hammer, by the way. Good work!

Opps, my reply took to long....

Nice looking hammer, well done.

The sand provides bite between the wood and the steel, the tar keeps it there till the wedge imbeds it. It should be a very secure attachment. The tar will also probably help keep it from picking up water and damaging the wood.

Frosty

Excellent job, I woulda liked a little bit more meat in front of the eye but that is just me.

Napakettu, that is a good looking hammer and thanks for sharing with us particularly the Finish method of fixing the handle. Your English is good! Do you have to work at English?

I notice the edges of your hammer face are more sharp than rounded. About the only blacksmith I know that likes sharp edges like that is Peter Ross one of the best USA blacksmiths. I use 2 hammers generally, one with edges similar to yours and one that has more rounded edges similar to Uri Hofi's hammers. Are those sharper edges common in Finland? Did your instructors's hammer have the sharper edges?

Thanks for your helpl,

Dick

blksmth, thanks for the compliment on my English (and on the hammer :-). I'm not actually a Finn. I'm originally from Luxembourg, so I'm not a native speaker either, but I studied in England for four years before I moved to Finland, and I still use English on a daily basis, so I guess that explains it.

The edges on the face of the hammer seem a bit sharp to me too, to be honest. They have a very slight curve to them, but only barely. My instructor's hammer had pretty sharp edges too, but maybe a little more rounded than mine, a bit like the edges on the sides of the hammer. I figured I'll leave them like this for now, and after a bit more hammering I'll see if I like it or if I should grind them slightly rounder. It's easier to round sharp edges than the other way round.

Morjens napakettu,

Nice to have another Finn on the forum. I hadn't heard about the tar+sand method before.

I don't know what is really traditional pattern for hammers here in Finland, but something similar to Swedish pattern is something I've seen on old hammers.

Terve Minotaur!

Not a real Finn, but from Finland anyway. I've been here nine years, so it really feels like home.

I've been taking courses at the Lounais-Suomen k

Hello morjens
Nice hammer if you will shorten the peen 4-5 mm you''ll get the wghit you wanted and the hammer will be more ballanced.
to forge with this type of hammer and NOT hitting your knakles you''ll have to hold the hammer the way I show in the 1000 BP'S and then you also have better control
Happy hammring
Hofi

Hofi, thanks for your comments. I was going to make the peen a little shorter, but my instructor told be to leave it as it is. Since he's a master blacksmith and I'm a beginner, I wasn't about to tell him otherwise. I'll consider what to do about it after hammering a bit longer.

I made the handle after watching your video on hammering technique. It is made pretty much to your description, fitting my hand well when holding it the Hofi way. I'm trying to learn your technique, and the hammer was made with that in mind.

Looks like a nice neat hammer.
Chris