Jeff Bly Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 I am curious what the steps are to go from a freshly forged object to one that is bright and shiny and reflective? I'm looking for step by step from start to finish and what items (tools, polishes, pads...) are used in the process. I want to put some really nice finishes on some of my work, but I just don't understand how to complete this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBrann Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 I start with a regular wheel on an angle grinder, then 40 grit on angle grinder, then 80 on belt sander, then 120, then 220, grinding a 45 degree between every step to make sure I have removed all marks from previous grit, then 320 on belt sander, then the red and blue conditioning wheel by 3M on angle grinder (very light touch, remove lines don't make new ones) then to the cotton buffing wheel with white diamond for carbon steel or green rouge for stainless ( different wheels) Buffing wheel should spin at least 1750 over 3200 is better but dangerous WEAR ALL YOUR SAFETY GEAR WHEN BUFFING FACE SHIELD, GLOVES APRON ETC you would be amazed where things go when they take off!! I use simple green as a de greaser to take the rouge off prior to gluing up, as opposed to a solvent, have no place to dispose of dirty solvents. Also once polished, keep finger prints off otherwise they can mark or rust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 When buffing a hard hat isn't a bad piece of safety gear in addition to the rest. A good heavy leather apron or padding under what you have but most importantly stay out of the plane of rotation as much as humanly possible. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Bly Posted April 12, 2009 Author Share Posted April 12, 2009 Thanks for the replies. ApprenticeMan & CBrann - Thanks for the info I was looking for. Frosty - I've seen the results of not having a hard hat, or a face shield for that matter. I'd like to avoid any pain if at all possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fat pete Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 scotch brite pads on an angle grinder can make some nice finishes...after they r complete a nice coat or two of clear coat helps too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new guy Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 i have only filed to a a nice sheen then used 420 grit and a leather strop to get a refletive sheen on my knives i made. althouugh im only on #2 that is actually usable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 Rust is always a problem with finished work of carbon or mild steel. If it is a knife I polish to a mirror finish, that leaves very few places for rust to begin. A good coat of wax takes care of it when not in use and a thorough cleaning and rewaing after use is a must. For other pieces that are decorative. Petes idea of a couple of clear coats is great. Have fun... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fat pete Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 he did not specify on knives....if he was thinking general forging he should use wire brush and/or angle grinder with a knotted wire wheel to remove scale....then go to a finish depending on what he is making there are a billion ways to finish something...or not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 true but I assume when posting in the knife section they mean blades, Else We relocate them to the appropriate area of the forum. Mirror finishes are nice, but a little more work to maintain in a usable blade than satin. But as Rich stated, they a so much easier to keep from rusting, and there are less places for rust to get a start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 13, 2009 Share Posted April 13, 2009 I start out by removing the scale with an overnight vinegar bath and then move on to the abrasives, (or files and then abrasives). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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