cuda Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 Help... I ran across a Buffalo hand cranked forge and was wondering how to get it unstuck. Any ideas? It's a complete unit but is seized up. I've tried WD 40 on it but has not seemed to help so far. Are these units rebuildable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finnr Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 Try filling it with diesel fuel and letting it set a few days. Probably has petrified grease in it. Finnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 ...and if it won't hold diesel, you can upend it in a 55 gal drum and fill the drum until the blower is immersed. I have never seen one that was so stuck that it could not be freed with a little TLC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 Check it for acorns if you haven't already. My first blower was a Buffalo 200 and it didn't work until I opened it up and found an acorn in it and took it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keykeeper Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 Disassemble it, definitely. PB Blaster is good for frozen hardware to help the dis-assembly process. Then, a Long soak in diesel, and lots of elbow grease with various scraping tools to remove the gunk that is probably caked in the nooks and crannies. Good luck, post some pics of the progress. We all love success stories about refurbishing classic equipment! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unkle spike Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 And I will throw out another one, wasps love to build in the fan housings.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holzkohle Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 1. I recently acquired a BUFFCO 200 which would not turn. As Jeff has said, once I removed all of the wasp (dirt dauber nests), works just fine. 2. Should there be a gasket between the blower cover and the main housing? There are some 1/8 inch wide gapes in a few places. Or is this something to be concerned about? Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkunkler Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 If you are going to completely restore/rebuild it I suggest reading up on electrolysis. http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f21/de-rusting-technique-3425/ I've used this technique to restore several old machines and tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuda Posted March 25, 2009 Author Share Posted March 25, 2009 Thanks for all the advice .... I did have some acorns and trash inside the blower and a lot of gunk. I dissassembled everything to get to the gearbox. The gears look good, nothing seems to broken but it is still frozen. The top gear that is attached to the handle seems to be free but the bottom section that that is attached to the blower seems to be stuck. I've cleaned it up pretty good and now it is soaking in diesel fuel. Hopefully this will free everything up. I figured I'd let it soak for a few days and try again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Just don't get in a hurry and try to force it. Every day or so take it out and just bump the handle back and forth, eventually it'll free up unless there's a pin, bolt, etc. come loose and binding it. Don't worry about that unless several days worth of soaking and bumping haven't gotten it to budge. These are robustly designed and built pieces of machinery and take a lot of abuse to ruin so it's more than likely yours just needs some gentle persuasion. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unkle spike Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 There are sometimes pins and bolts that hold the gears in alignment, make sure one of these pins or bolts has not backed out, out of view, that could stop it also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 Another trick is to turn the fan blade itself by hand, which assists in compound leverage from the gear train. In other words, the fan will normally spin several revs from one turn of the handle so a turn or two of the fan will apply a great deal of force back up the gear train to the handle. This will often work when you have already cleared the fan case but the handle still won't turn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sfDuck Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 This must be the time of year for forges to freeze, on the bottom gear have you removed the outside nut and screw or the grease hub? try spraying where the shaft is mounted. worked for mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuda Posted March 25, 2009 Author Share Posted March 25, 2009 Still no luck after soaking for 24 hrs. I'll check on the nut and shaft fitting where the fan attaches. I tried moving the fan when it was mounted to the shaft but it wouldn't budge. I'll let it soak another day or so. Since the fan is now off and the shaft is exposed do you think it would hurt anything to put a small pipe wrench on the fan shaft to get some bite and leverage on the bottom gear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 I wouldn't put a cheater on it if that's what you're asking, no. Have you gotten all the crud out of it? There could be something like a pebble, stick or nut jammed somewhere. If there's still crud in it, let it soak another day or so and try digging the crud out. Maybe take it to the car wash and hit it with a pressure washer to blast any the crud out. If it's clean inside and still won't move after SEVERAL DAYS of soaking, there may be a pin, bolt or clip loose and jammed. In that case you'll need to start taking it apart till you get to the problem. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finnr Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 That critter didn't get gunked up in 24 hours, it takes time. Let her soak. Finnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuda Posted March 27, 2009 Author Share Posted March 27, 2009 I finally got the blower unstuck , now I am soaking it in oil this time. I think I will go ahead and clean the forge stand and blower up and paint it since I have gone this far. After the two day soaking in diesel and brake fluid I decided to try just a little pull on the blower shaft with a pipe wrench to see if it would move any at all. It started to turn so I slowly worked it back and forth while spraying oil on it. It seems to be good to go now. I'll continue to soak it in oil while I get the rest of the forge cleaned up and ready to paint. Thanks to everybody for the help and advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rasklking Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 And I will throw out another one, wasps love to build in the fan housings.... I hate it when they do that! :o Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuda Posted April 6, 2009 Author Share Posted April 6, 2009 Trying to upload pics of the forge...looking for recommendations for a firepot and hearth to connect to the base. Will a steel table with the cast iron grate mounted on the top work or will I need to use some sort of firepot mounted to the base of the forge where the 3 holes are at and then build a hearth level with the top of the firepot? What thickness of steel would be the best? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cross Pein Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Cuda, Is that a new twist - I never pictured the brake drum facing down! I have the same blower. Those things can sure move some air. I read somewhere that the bearings in them are steel and can rust. I suspect that this is why you were advised not to put the wrench to it. I also read that they can be replaced with modern stainless bearings. Mine was free so I can't confirm this. Mine doesn't hold oil past the lowest shaft - my plan is to give it a squirt every time I plan to use it and let the gears distribute it up. I will need to place a drip cup under it. Can't wait to get the forge and put this plan into action! Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Lumpkins Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 (edited) Good deal glad you got it unstuck.. Edited April 6, 2009 by WagonMaster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuda Posted April 6, 2009 Author Share Posted April 6, 2009 Yea, the drum was mounted like that when I bought it. What size and kind of hearth do I need for this? I was thinking of making something out of diamond plate steel and putting the grate on top. Should this work or do I need a cast iron firepot ? Any ideas? Do I need the coal fire below the hearth a few inches? If so, how's the best way to do this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackSmithBear Posted August 2, 2009 Share Posted August 2, 2009 Check the bearings...my 400 had frozed(rusted) bearings. Bicycle bearings (in cages) from coaster brake bikes) fit nicely, and work great. Bear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted August 7, 2009 Share Posted August 7, 2009 To answer the question about the fire pot, and hearth. The main body of the forge (hearth) can be of a heavy gauge sheetmetal (16ga on up), such as the Buffalo forge I have. In that case there is a cast iron firepot to take the fire's abuse. In the case of my Champion forges the hearth is cast iron without a separate firepot. It sounds like you are thinking this works like a BBQ with a grate. The coals are built up directly around the air blast, and sometimes over the top to make an oven (for small parts, ends, etc) . There isn't a grate over the firepot to hold the coals up.The clinkers that form can be busted up with the clinker breaker in the firepot, and fall to the discharge chute at the bottom. With all of that being said, a lot will depend on your use of the forge. Will it be stationary, or mobile? Mobile-sheetmetal = lighter weight. Firepots can also be fabbed up out of plate steel, and lined with a refractory clay, or brick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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