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I Forge Iron

Bellows


Jeff Bly

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What do you reckon an old antique bellows is worth? It is a full size blacksmiths forge bellows. It is supposedly from circa 1900, but I am researching that now. I saw it in an antique store and they said they were going to turn it into a table for a New York City restaurant.

I paid $275 for it. It was supposed to have come from the Old Sturbridge Village in MA, but I contacted them and they said there shop didn't have bellows when they aqquired the shop, so I don't know if what I have is authentic or not.

I was told that the old Sears catalog sold blacksmith bellows if it was circa 1900, but I have to try and find identifying marks on it somewhere first.

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Frosty, Yes, I am VERY happywith the deal!!! To get a bellows that may actually have some history in it is worth all the price to me. Even if it's just a generic bellows, it was used for the craft for which I wish to return it.

Besides, if there is history, that's priceless. For everything else, there's Mastercard.;)

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That really looks great I would say you did OK on the price.

Which brings up a question, does anyone have a pattern on how to build a bellows? Size of the bellows does not matter as I can adjust for that.
I really would like to build one to use at domestications as I get better. I would like to portray a 1800's to maybe early 1900's blacksmith. I know I could use a hand cranked blower but I can't build that, not yet anyway.
Just all in my plain as I hope I progress.
Bill P.

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I've built one and used it for about 15 years---See the picture? Bellows takes 3 solid layers and perhaps 2 "horseshoe" layers to keep the leathers from ballooning out. Bottom two solid layers have valves in them oriented so they can lift up but close down. (and can't flip over) Snout is set up to connect only to the top "lung" of the bellows.

In use the center solid layer is held rigid in the frame, the bottom layer drops down letting air into the bottom lung. The pull pole is connected to the bottom solid layer so when you pull down on the lever the bottom rises closing the bottom valves and pushing the air into the top lung where it both raises the top board and escapes through the bellows snout into the tuyere. Note that the snout should not need a check valve as air is always going *out* in use.

One grace note is to adjust the fulcrum of the pull pole so it pumps easily---I could pump mine to forge welding temps with my pinky, a friend used a badly arranged one for over a decade at a historical site that took great effort to use and has shoulder damage from using it---ugh...

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Divermike - I'm about 5 miles north of Albany. I'm pretty happy with my find. Bellows like this must be starting to be hard to come by. All the leather needs to be replaced. I'll probably use a hand cranked blower for now and restore the bellows as a side project.

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Thanks for the info at some point in time I'll put it to use.
I have been working with wood most of my life but just finished my first real wood shop this year. Now I'll really have a reason to put it to use, will also have to build a blacksmith shop now as well. (wood floor in the wood shop)
Thanks again folks
Bill P.

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