Dutchmancreek

I wear prescription safety glasses (clear) with side shields whenever I'm doing anything at the forge. If I'm doing forge welding I change to grey welding glasses with sideshields and uv protection. I personally think side shields are very important to your protection. Even the best PPE won't always help. I was doing a bit of chain saw carving and had on safety glasses with side shields in addition to a full face shield. A chip still got in my eye and sent me to the emergency room. Steve

I always put a pair of tongs together with a bolt to check the fit and make adjustments before I rivet them. What size stock did you make these out of? If they were mine I would draw out the reins a little smaller, but that's just a comfort thing...what ever feels good to you. Good job Steve

You got a great deal. A Centaur fire pot goes for over $170 and a 30" hood is $140, and then you got the forge table too. Steve

or...you could just buy assorted sizes of round headed rivets, and save a lot of time. I have made most of the rivits I've used but I was given a handful of the commercial variety and will probably buy more in the future. I like 'em. Steve

I've used them to make tongs. I don't know of any other uses specifically. I occasionally also get used rasps from our farrier. Some of those are good for such things as folded hawks and draw knives. Steve

The rail road spike knives you see everywhere are really just conversation pieces. Even those marked HC on the head don't have enough carbon to harden properly. There are many things you can make with them however, and they are useful to have around. One of the projects on my list is a spike tomahawk (again not for real use, just as a project and wall hanger). It's not against the law to have, or forge, RR spikes but taking them from railroad property without permission would be considered theft and probably trespassing. Steve

Until recently I used a 2 pound cross peen for most work with a 3 pound for slightly heavier work. Lately, I've started to use a hammer with a RH 45 degree diagonal peen...it weighs about 2 1/2 pounds. I believe the diagonal peen will soon become my favorite. Steve

I posted these before, but you asked for pictures again...it's a bit dirtier now but today's a cleanup day for me. Steve

I found two large pairs of "needlenose" pliers and rounded and modified the tips to the shape I wanted. They're not in contact with the hot stock for long periods, just when I'm giving a little twist, so they aren't hurt by the heat. The smaller pair lives in my lower apron pocket. Steve

I wear a canvas lined leather apron. It covers my whole front, down to my knees. Some smiths don't have pockets on their aprons, but I use my lower pocket to hold round jaw pliers and keep soapstone and a marker in the upper pocket. I've never had a problem with hot scale or metal getting in the pockets. Steve

If your gas forge is hot enough, the best way to add enough mass to make a ball is to fold over the end and forge weld it. I find this is easier than upsetting. I also have seen, but not tried, a collar welded around the end and then formed into a ball. Even twisting depends on even heating, but just because the twist isn't completely even doesn't mean it doesn't look good. Steve

Don A...sorry I missed your post. The blower is an electric blower salvaged from an old heater, the same one I used on my old flat forge.I don't know the CFM. I used dryer duct to get from the blower to the forge. I had a dimmer switch type speed control but removed it in favor of an air gate to control the air volume. I also had the blower wired through a foot switch (from a sewing machine) so when I stepped away from the forge the blower would quit....it saved coal and kept me from absent mindedly burning up pieces. I needed the switch for another project and haven't replaced it yet.

I didn't know I had good photo composition...I thought I just stepped back and snapped another shot. Well, if it's good, I'm gonna say I did it on purpose. Thanks Steve

I cleaned up the shop while waiting for the firepot to arrive from Centaur...it's usually a mess, but I like it this way. Maybe I'll clean up more often. The steel table was sitting outside my cousin's welding shop so it only took a bit of cutting and welding to make the forge. The forge area under the hood is 24 X 31 with angle iron welded around for sides. The table area in front of the forge is 16 X 31 and there is a small 8 X 31 area behind the hood to hold fire tools. Luckily, the hood fit the table perfectly. Steve

I just installed a new forge today. Welded up with a Centaur forge firepot and custom hood. The old flat forge is now set over by the rivet forge and will probably be given to a friend. I lit a fire and did a forge weld just to break it in....will actually start a project tomorrow.

When I start having problems, I stop and go get a cup of coffee, and relax. Then I give the work a break for a while. I find that cleaning the shop, cleaning up the anvil and tools, and cleaning out the forge is good. I find that success in the work, especially welding, has a lot to do with attitude. I have not been able to make a weld and then when showing someone what I'm doing and explaning it, everything goes perfectly. I don't worry about screwing up, just let the process flow. I guess it is a kind of "zen" thing.

I didn't know that stacking up anvils would be (apparently) an off-shoot hobby. I only had mine stacked while I was cleaning and re-arranging and took the photo as kind of a joke. I have since mounted the Peter Wright on an oak stump that is a little higher than usual to use for small work. I need to find another anvil or two so I can stack up higher (although I'll have to use the tractor boom to bet em' up there. Steve

Kind of hard to work this way...I guess I'll have to move things around.

Yup..it's a swedge block. It comes in very handy around the shop. I've used mine quite a bit. What might it have been doing out in the woods? What else might be out there? Steve

I usually make a style of the "pig tail meat flipper"/"J hook (or whatever you call it) for the guys at camp. I make them out of stainless rod with deer antler handles and a fancy braided lanyard. This year I also made 2 five foot long pokers for the out door camp fires and also made a set of fireplace tools for the cabin to replace the cheap set that has been there for years. For the long campfire pokers, I just forge a shaker point or welded spear point for the poker end and a balancing piece for the butt end. I mount them on conduit to save overall weight. My deer camp in SW Pennsylvania is coming up quick....I'll be opening the cabin Thanksgiving day. Deer season here in Southern Illinois is a week earlier than that. (I don't hunt in PA, I'm the camp cook). Leaving for Colorado in the morning to visit the grand daughter, see you guys in a week.

When I'm tired I also have the tendency to think that just one more hammer blow will make the item much better...usually one more is one too many.

I always figure that a day in the smithy isn't complete until I burn the end off a piece and pick up the hot end of something. That tells me it's time to close down the fire and go in the house. I certainly wasn't disappointed today. Anybody else have these type of things happen when you're tired?

I agree with Rich in that you should practice a weld every time you light up your forge. I also try to warm up my anvil because it will remove just enough heat to make the weld very difficult. (I throw a large piece of iron in the forge and after it heats lay it on the face of the anvil while getting ready for my project.) For welding smaller pieces, I have a flat plate mounted right beside the forge to make the weld before heat is lost. Larger pieces will hold heat longer so they are usually all right for the 90 degree turn to the big anvil. I don't see a lot of difference between the commercial fluxes and plain old borax, other than the cost. I also find that if I just go and make the weld without fretting over it I usually am more successful. I think it's an attitude thing. Steve

Where in Southern Illinois are you? The Illinois Valley Blacksmith Association meets the second Saturday of each month at the historical village on 27th street in Mount Vernon. There are 4 forges going most of the day and always someone to help. Come by. Steve

Since retiring, I have taken up blacksmithing as a hobby. I spent so many years working to .0005 that is quite a relief to just hit things with a hammer. I am a member of the Illinois Valley Blacksmith Association and attend the meetings as often as I can. My shop: 14'X14' addition to my work shop, coal forge, 131# Peter Wright anvil, 300 # Hay Budden anvil, tongs (purchased and shop made), hammers, chisels, punches, etc. Glad to meet you