gewoon ik

I have the same problem. Some spots are red after forging. No idea how. Gasforge or coal forge i have it with both. Nice rack btw.

For welding you can grind the chrome away locally to the steel underneed and weld on it. Putting the rod in a campfire is like putting it in a forge. A lot of nasty chrome that you will inhale. A hydraulic shop mostly can or know a place where they rechrome those things. And those people can take it off. You can also use it as an anvil. I use a pen as an anvil

Chad i believe that thorbjorn is using blo on his coathanger. Knowing myself, i would propably only wirebrush it to remove the scale and soften any sharp corner or burr and leave it like that. Shaina, i made a rose like that 2 weeks ago. Was very timeconsuming the rolling. A small coalfire and plenty heats to get a nice result.

jen is now using patches to cure her smoking stack.

smoking can be solved by adding up to 10% parafinated oil (petroleum) in your dieselfuel owners of some oldtimer dieselcars put it in when it is getting colder to reduce the smoke. May helps, since you said it is an oily smell, not an acidic smell

If flashing is the piece of zinc (olden buildings still have lead) between the roof and wall, you can always cut it in the seams of the brickwork and fill it up with mortar again. Common used technic where i live. Does not need to be metal. Dpc or epdm is also used.

Backpain is not nice. I had several collegues with hernias as well. Be carefull when lifting anything, use your legs, tools, hoists, ... at much as possible to lessen the strain on your back. I wich you a good recovery and a painfree back.

The asphalts remelt probalbly due to the heat. I have done epdm myself on a very small roof (gardenshed). Don't do it on sunny days is my recommendation. (I start to sweat when I start thinking about it). But you need some pitch to drain te water off. They way the roof looks on the photo's is what latticino is discribing. You can always put stones (round ones) on the roof to stop it from blowing off. Take white or light grey colored ones and you have less heat. Looking at the roof, i don't think there is any waterdrain, the water is supposed to run of at one side of the roof (if the pitch is correct). Before putting the epdm, it is better to remove the asphalt (if possible) to see the structure underneed. If there is damage to whatever is underneed. Repair before covering it. Good luck

Cool thing.

Nice. Try kerosine or petroleum if it's something you find. The last is more designed for heating purposes and less smokey. Since it is an older unit, i think it will be designed for that kind of fuel as well and not the diesel as in gasoil, diesel as in heating fuel cna be good as well.

Tilleys and petromaxes are mantle lamps where you pressurise the fuel reservoir. Coleman does same thing, but different fuel. Tilley use lampoil or kerosine (lampoil is clearer kerosine, less aditives so cleaner flame), coleman uses petrol (or there expensive version of it). Different fractions, same priniciple. Lampoil or kerosine or petroleum are more or less the same. Difference is additives and design. But all heavier fuels, safe to handle. Better for heating and lighting Petrol is more dangerous, with the lower flashpoint and higher evaporation rate. Original intended of the lamps is different, hence the different fuelsources. Coleman has a verion on gas as well. Campinggaz also. Gives of a nice white light and lots. Unfortunatly when camping, the mantles are fragile to bumps (can be in the car) so keep a spare close.

Where i live the pressurised ones are or petromax or tilley lamps. Amd you call them by the brandname you know to make the difference between a normal oil lamp. (Bit like all diapers are called pampers) But thank you, i have now a fueurhand stormlamp (wicked) in order. Ideal as lighting when going camping.

Birthday of my girlfriend, so i made small rose We both are happy with the looks.

Remake of the hinges. Almost done. And out of gas. So yeah. Next week.

Goods i'm happy i'm not the only one messing up simple stamps (have to hard stamp for my job, had already several marks upside down as well. Always fun, a long number and than a numer 2 upside down.)

You do indeed. But it is not on that project I failed. The hinge that fight with me on thursday is scrap. Have another idea that will go quicker, less nice but it needs to get done. The big project you know, i can mention short. I don't have good picture of the parts so far, only my rough sketch and some samplepieces (althou the long round tentacles the idea is gopd, i start making them) Project for school, need to make a hinge. Need to have some complex techniques in it some ornamental stuff, some forgewelding, ... So i designed my own. Don't like the "traditional" forgings, not my style. So I ended up with a jellyfish (blame the kids, they wanted me to draw some and the idea came from there). The small tentacles are going to be round of 12mm above the ornamental piece at the bottom. And will taper to 18mm to the body. Lenght of 500mm. They will have dimples in it, quite large to give it structure. The ornamental piece will be bigger than in the drawing. Around 50mm in width. Will have 3 crisp points and a centerridge. in this picture i need to round it up more and starting structuring it. the flat tentacles will be tapered from 30 to max 40 to a point over a length of 350 to 400mm. They small end will be scrolled up to give it a tentacle look. It all will be structured with 2 fullers and the same rounding tool (to "hide" the mounting holes). These go quick with a guillotine-tool and heavy hamer. I have only an example of it the flat tentacles will be forgewelded to the hinge body. That will be made out of 4mm plate, with the start of the flat tentacles. The round tentacles will be installed with a tenon but the tenon will be 90° to the back. The upper part, those lines on the drawing, will become ridges. So an big project. I can use a power hamer to make all the parts so the drawing of the tapers should go quick. The first long tentacle was my first power hamer use and i did less than 3 hours making it, including a mould for the taper and the ornamental piece (no powerhamer) and the explanation and testing of the power hamer (on another piece) I don't think it will be used as a hinge (to pass the test, it needs to be functional), i need to make 2 and a very big door. Will probably live its live as an ornamental piece on a nice piece of wood.

I know, i have one. But i put it under when i think i'm almost there. What happend quicker than i anticipated 1 time, can happen. Twice, on the same material. Get lost!

Add all the swearwords you like and read on. I spend a couple of hours making a small hinge. First in making material of the proper size, to realize I don't have quite enough material to make the needed 2 pieces but maybe with some peening it will get there (same halves of 2 hinges) Than in splitting the piece and getting the lega 180° opposite. By doing that realizing that my anvil is way harder than my chisel (or i was getting quicker throu the material than i was realizing). And than doing the exact same thing on the other split. Than finding out i made a small calculation error in calculation how much material i needed for the eye (yes diameter*pi, but not the diameter of the hingepin). Some more fiddling to get some more material. Starting to form the eye. All looks good. And than I realize the eye needs to be wrapping around in the other direction. So i shut off the forge. And while typing this. I realize that i could have enoug material if i did my split differently, because both legs are not the same length in my design en the distance to short, is the difference between both legs. So instead of keeping the eyeparts in the middle of my stock and split from both ends, i needed to do the opposite. Now i run out of material and gas. Time well spend *cries in the corner of his workshop*

Ok thanks. Looks good.

I am to stupid to understand your honest anwer. Regular gray paint? (For use on metal offcourse) and you layer all those colors?

The isolation above my gasforge is 1,5m above. Those are the cheap PUR plates. You feel the heat on the isolation, but you can hold your hand against it without any problems, so temp below 60°C. Make a metal heatdeflector, keep a space between the garagedoor en the heatdeflector. Angle the deflector outwarts so that even hot air can escaoe to the outdoor.

Nice work alex. How to you finish your work? Hotwax, paint, ...?

Ah ok. Thanks. Indeed very praktical for sheet metal work

I have some croation friends that now live in the nederlands because of the war. They fled and never returned.

What is the tool in the box? Never seen it. The ruler/caliper looks funny. But can very helpfull