Charlotte

Twenty Mule team will work adequately for you project. There are discussions in Alchemy section which cover forge flux in exhaustive detail including a recent one for a home brew flux that I plan on trying the next time I make up a batch.

Thanks for the link. Good one.

Absolutely true, however kitty litter bentonite, has the major defect in that it shrinks a lot on drying and when heated. That is why I found that backyard clay worked better for me. The oil absorbent that we used in gas stations was a Clay Kitty litter in a cheaper bag. Still use it under my 20 year old 4 by.

http://theconversation.com/uk/environment an article on co2 scrubbing in iron/steel production is in the current issue may be of interest to you

The type of clay used in kitty litter is particularly selected to expand and hold moisture well. Those suggestions would be well followed. If I were still living in Pennsylvania I would look for a road cut or stream bank that showed some gray clay and use that instead of kitty litter. I found that I did better with subsoil from my back yard in Louisiana than I did with Kitty Litter Good luck with your experiment.

Thank you. Very instructive.

I recommend "The complete book of SAND CASTING" BY C. W. Ammen. Sand Casting is the normal way higher temperature metals are cast. There is an intermediate mixture of the Plaster of Paris used by potters to make molds with quartz sand mixed in. The plaster used by potters a slightly different composition that sold in hardware stores. It is tougher and more durable as it is used repeatedly for slip cast items. My first contact with it was helping a friend in college cast a small sculpture in bronze. That was lost wax. After casting you just bust the plaster away and start finishing.

I used the grease for outboard motors lower unit for my blower although it use Bronze bushings. Gears sling oil around and the bearing get lubed.

Look for these vids on You Tube ABS YouTube Video - How to Make Tongs for Bladesmithing by Ed Clarke

Coke goes out by it self. I use a sprinkler can to damp the coal down. Spread out the residual heat usually dries the coal. Maybe half an hour and all is safe.

The mention of traditional fluxes was just so the less experienced would fell comfortable with boric acid in a custom made flux. The addition of powdered carbon is very new to me. Although, on reflection, it seems to be an excellent innovation. I will be trying it next time I make up some flux.

Try a search in the knife forum. Most of the questions you will ever have here are already addressed. BTW There is an excellent video on making your own in the Alchemy forum. it is stickied at the top

A number of the traditional, commercial, welding mixes included boric acid. Cherry heat if I recall had iron particles as well.

I find it easier to forge a square punch than a round one. As I said convenient taper.... something less than 45 more than 12. Look at pictures above. should give you the idea.

Took the words out of my mouth.

Now that carburizing has been discussed, may I suggest an option for people that want to create an "blacksmith made" knife for the demo crowd? Take a piece of rusty file and Hammer out a short blade. Dress with a file, quench, edge in oil and draw temper. A few licks with a wire wheel and you have a knife that may cut.

matches or a butane lighter is not indicated. Handy man propane torch or the weight of soldering iron that is used in copper roof install LOL AMERICAN BEAUTY Soldering Iron, 300W, Heavy DutySoldering Iron,300W,Heavy DutyItem # 19YP56Mfr. Model # 3178E-300Soldering Iron,Watts 300,Temp. (F) 1050 Degrees ,Design Ergonomically Friendly Design Reduces Stress on Hand and Wrist,Features Exacting Laser Cut, Precision Brazing Operation,Handle Hardwood,Includes Stand,Standards CE,Tip Chisel Style,Type Professional-Grade,For Use With Mfr. No. 45C,Application Heavy Duty Soldering Iron,Watts 300,Temp. (F) 1050 Degrees ,Design Ergonomically Friendly Design Reduces Stress on Hand...More

I usually use a propane torch but it just occurred to me that a heavy duty soldering Iron might also work. The trick is to heat the nut faster than the shaft which being heavier and bigger should heat less quickly. Takes a little patience but works almost every time

Liquid wrench, mild heating of the nut, tap gently but firmly with hammer on center shaft, repeat. Standard auto mechanic technique for removing stubborn nuts. Liquid Wrench is one of a number of similar compounds. Go to auto parts store if you don't find it at Local big box store.

very nice. Well done !

I've made hail headers with out paying much attention to angle. I just forged a convenient taper and punched. My headers seemed to work ok.

I looked at the vid. Gosh, how good it is to have YouTube. I had to drive 150 miles to see that done the first time. He makes it look easy because he has a plan in mind and knows how to hammer. The opening showing examples of inferior tongs also tells us what can go wrong and common errors in construction. One of the reasons that I recommend learning to make tongs is that it embodies the basic skills of the smith. One of the most frequent criticisms of novice smiths by professionals is: "They Don't know How To Hammer" There is an instruction on this site of Hofi showing how to hammer. Look it up and enjoy. .

good by me. At least it appears distinctive which is hard to find these days.

Just as thought: when I've looked at break drums and brake rotors being machined it looks to me like they are gray cast iron in composition. I say this as a person that spent some time cleaning production lathes that shaped every thing from cast iron to high alloy stainless.

Charles, I love your practical, no nonsense approach to most problem.