Countryforge

The hood was great 8 inch chimney 5 feet above the roof, no smoke in the shop very warm to the hand at high heat.

Main hammer is my 3.3 pound Habberman hammer nice balance

The book is The Blacksmith's Craft by the Rural Development Commission. The size is 2' x 2' with a 7/8 air hole the tuyere goes 9 inches into the hearth and is 3 inches off the bottom. With the cooling tank I can move it back and up and down with shims for different fire positions. A 1 inch fire brick protects the bottom from heat. When I ran it the bottom got hot but not above 200 F

At a recent blacksmith demonstration I had the opportunity to watch Paul Allen from England I was amazed at the control he got out of his side tuyere forge. He repeatedly forge welded with no flux his selection of where to place the heat was amazing. The only question I asked in all humility was about the forge, he said that's all he's ever used. Finding a Blacksmith book from Britain I proceded to replicate the forge. On my first fire it was great to see the forge in action. Even with a hand crank it worked well. With $50 in total material it was worth it.

I had the same problem with a 2 inch block to try and get a hardy hole. Oxy/acet torch number 4 or 5 tip I cranked the oxy up to 100 psi cut through like butter but had to start at both ends of the hole, once through I cleaned it up with a chisel. Now for the stand?

I noticed in many of your pics some participants are standing on platforms making tools as if the anvils they are using are too high. How high is the small portable block anvil you have with you?

I may have the opportunity to get a Beche hammer, looking at it has a floating anvil secured with springs. Does this part go down any further? The hammer part is just 4 bolts. Also what would the total weight be, to size the truck for moving it?

Hey I agree with Mr. Powers. I have all sorts of chunks of steel to beat on some are anvils, my favorite is a saws anvil no noise when hitting this 250 lb mass or a 600 lb piece you can use a 14 lb sledge on with no fear. A nice 280 lb Wright is my work horse. Each piece has it advantage over the next. I know it is a tough decission. You will find your way.

The coal I use is 25% ash real crap but I can still melt steel I add charcoal to get better heat out. All you can do is try it first, with that much moisture you may have to start it off with lump charcoal to get it to burn. Good luck

As I read these comments I was also looking forward to trying my turn at this new venture of making a hammer. After trying forever just to get the hammer hole through I was ready to give up, the gas forge was just not putting out the heat. Even though I get my coal for free it is just crap( 25% ash) it serves its purpose to supply heat but that's all. Doing some work at a local mill I was asked if I could use some coal which had been laying around for 30 years. I now have a greater respect for good coal . The cutting was like butter the forming was just as good. For a first try it was ok but still will be used in the" back" shop. All this rambling on leads to one point the greatest tool for making hammers is a good heat.

HI Brian Setting up to when you one day come to Ontario Canada. Your portable tripod plate beater. I am sourcing out this item figure 5x12x3 inches thick should do, is it regular steel or are there some carbon points in it Thanks Ray

Thank You so much for the information. There is not much up here for training.

Thanks Brian Are there any more links to pics for making your hammers. Up here in Ontario Canada there is not much available for tool making. I am making the fullers used in the pics I have seen, but the sizes I may have to guess at. Just got in a 600 lb beater block that I can hit on, this will help.

I know this is a late post but what size blank was used for the hammer?

I have some ball mill liners about 80 to 100 pounds. All have holes about one inch diameter you can cut your own v groove. Free for pick up.

Hi all. I have a modified vise grip pliers which I ground flat and set a half round on each end. It works well

Check out Metalsupermarket.com. They have a good selection and I have asked them in Kitchener to bring in steel for me. Also try sawmills using large band saws. Local bladesmiths may also have idea as to where to get steel. Good Luck.

Hey I started out with Kingsford charcoal and a hair dryer, I had no idea what I was doing, maybe still don't. But up here in Canada things are few and far. Just have to look in all the little places. Every thing is there just waiting to be found.

I have been metalworking for almost 15 years. During this time I have purchased anvils, post vices, built forges both gas and coal anything that is required to do the job. As the projects get larger I have to replace the equipment, thats gets expensive, 3000 dollars for an anvil. Almost all the time the customers come out to the shop I have to look professional whether I am or not. Equipment costs, it is what is expected in this business.

I have the same problem with my forge not getting hot enough. Since reading the suggestions I have tried all possible changes, form using an .035 to a.045 tip. Changing to add kaowool to the forge and reducing forge size. No luck. One question though. On the end of the burner should there be a space between the pipe and the flare? My flared piece is tight fit as some I have seen have a space??? I also am using a Zoller side arm and z burner configuration. Should this burner be increased to a One inch rather than 3/4 inch size.

I looked on Ebay by the stationary engines and there were a few listed.

I use both type of hammers ( in reply to the original question) but I must recommend to the selection of a good hammer. When I started this venture money was tight so cheap hammers were purchased. As they slowly chipped, cracked and broke in half I started to purchase Peddinghouse hammers only. My best choice. Cheap chinese hammers are just not worth the money or the damage they cause.

Frosty a great job in recovering from such an accident. Nice to have you back.

Were I work they throw brick out by the ton. How soon do you need it?

How much do you need? Does size matter?