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I Forge Iron

cal-k

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About cal-k

  • Rank
    Member

Converted

  • Location
    flamborough, ont.
  • Biography
    student
  • Interests
    Knifemaking, sailing
  • Occupation
    warehouse cleaner (part time) I LOVE GOOOOD BROOMS
  1. "I'm testing a knife, the whole knife, made the way I make knives." Ah, fair enough! Thanks for clearing up my confusion.
  2. "I'm not making a test knife - I'm making a knife that will be tested" I understood that you weren't actually going to take the test, but you are going to test it yourself (as the quote says). That means it will very likely be damaged, perhaps to the point of making it 'useless'. Personally, I wouldn't spend that much time and effort on a knife that I know is going to be destructively tested, especially since I know nobody else needs to look at the blade. If it's purely for testing forging and heat treatment skills, I'd only go to 400grit, and slab handles, anything else seems to be wasted
  3. First of all, a big thanks for putting this up. Your work seems to be at about my level, so this knife is truly inspirational. Second,its nice to see your jigs, work progress, and attention to detail; gave me many new ideas to try. Finally, the JS test is destructive...so why would you put this much work into something that will be 'destroyed'? It would make more sense to make a blade that passes the test with just a basic handle, and not as high a finish. Just read an article off of the ABS website about the JS test, a quote: "The applicant’s test knife. No special handle or finish is
  4. Very nice combination of pitted blades and wrapped handles. Love the look, and the blade design meshes perfectly with it. Definitely gonna give this a shot myself.
  5. Brilliant brainwave on the grips there, look very technical.
  6. cal-k

    Scrap knife

    Hmm nice blade, but I'd loose the ring too; the colour and shape don't fit. (IMHO) Maybe replace it with a non-round loop in black. Deeply etched trapezoid?
  7. Nice work with the pewter on the third. Like how it's run down into the handle, bit like water frozen in place. Did you use nails/screw/etc to anchor the pewter?
  8. Get a couple really cheap folders, with different mechanisms. Take them apart and study the lock, should give you a real good idea of what is needed to make each type. Most will take a fair bit of fiddling, filing, fitting, and time to get it just right.
  9. cal-k

    Making the Gate 4

    Spectacular! Love the heron and reeds. Is it good on both sides?
  10. emailed Resource Metals, they said they could get 1080 no problem... this is the fella i mailed: Jason Bell <jason@resourcemetals.ca> hmm, being a student, price is usually an issue, but thanks anyways. If i recall properly, bandsaw blades from sawmill are likely L6, right? could get my hands on that... thanks
  11. hello folks, been a while since i've posted here. I'm looking to start working with damascus, have made a piece using 5160 and mild, but when I etched there wasn't much difference. so, i started looking round IFI for what to use, came up with a combo of 1080 and 15n20. lotta people saying its good steel for knives, fairly easily forged, and has a very obvious pattern. I'm in flamborough, part of Hamilton, called a number of steel supply places that I know of...none have come back with 15n20, 1080 isn't a problem. so... do any of you know where i can get 15n20, or a different combination
  12. Used it for pins before. Got a whole bunch from two boxsprings, but the spring is almost two hard for what i'll be doing, might work nice for the inside of folding knives....
  13. have a picture here of the hitler youth knife... thought the same thing when i saw it, but maybe just the same style
  14. ok, had another night of forging, and I decided to just try a separate piece, to see if I could get a weld in ideal circumstances. I forged out a peice of the torsion bar into flatbar, and gave it slight convex face, so that the slag/flux could leave easy. Low light (nighttime), heated anvil, added borax at red, nice bright Yellow no sparks, just tapping the piece together, ...nothing. Not even sticky. At this point I decided that it's probably not my technique so much, as the steel itself. Got lots of practice shaping though, ready for the next one. I agree with the people who have cas
  15. Thank you MattBower, I feel like you're one of the only ones who actually read both entire posts, instead of just assuming I have a deathwish. I have worked with 5160 for a number of my blades, but it just didn't feel like the same kind of steel. Maybe it's just me. Junkyard rules, I wouldn't be surprised if there is other 'stuff' in there. ironstein: Thanks, thats probably a big part of the problem, I was working outside in the Canadian winter, that probably didn't help. chichi: In the books I've read "sparks scream weld me". Obviously books are not a substitute for experience, so I'll try
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