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Found 12 results

  1. Hello! I have a question about a 4-way directional control valve. I have build a forge press for my smithy, and I’m wondering if there is a power stroke port on my control valve. The system is a 25 ton press, but I don’t feel like I am getting the power that the system is designed for. I’ll attach some pictures. I’m wondering if I have my hoses from the control valve and DA cylinder connected correctly. I installed everything to the manufacturers specifications. Also, regarding the control valve, I have to lift up on the handle to articulate the cylinder downward, and push down on the handle to articulate the ram upward. Can I reverse the hose positions on the control valve ports to reverse the direction without sacrificing tonnage force? Is the force equal on both ports? I think I remember reading something on the cylinder spec that the return stroke is much less powerful than the pressing stroke. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Than you!! -Joshua Frost
  2. Hi Y'all, Found this hydraulic press on "Gumtree" and I was curious if it could be used or adapted for forging? The description given by the seller: Good condition. Heavy duty. 300mm opening. Good value. Was going for 40000 then 30000 and now it's 20000, price in South African Rand. Thanks in advance.
  3. Any help appreciated. I am starting to assemble components for building a hydraulic press. I have purchased this hydraulic pump because it seem to be all set up double action control valve with a foot pedal control built in. It puts out pressure to 10,000 psi. The cylinder I purchased has a max rating of 3000 psi. Do I put some kind of pressure relief valve between the two to make sure the pump does not exceed the cylinder's max rating of 3,000 psi? The pump has a pressure dial, I could just make sure I don't exceed the pressure manually, but though the relief valve would be a better design.
  4. Hey I have been looking at some shop presses recently and was wondering, is ther any reasons why i couldnt use a press from harbor freight like the one in the link? https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-air-hydraulic-shop-press-with-oil-filter-crusher-65330.html
  5. I know there isn't really sufficient information here, but please bear with me. Is there any chance the press in the attached would be suitable for forging (primarily for making pattern welded billets and punching hammer/axe eyes)? I'm not that familiar with presses, but have done some homework, and know that the 15-60 ton range is reasonable and that cycle speed is one of the critical parameters. The hydraulic cylinder here looks smaller than I've seen for most hydraulic forging presses and the hand cranked "winch" on the side worries me as well. The current motor appears to be a 2 HP one, but the photo showing the hydraulic pump info is to washed out to read. To me this looks like a smaller press, perhaps from an automotive repair shop or for light fabrication, but I really am not sure. Thanks for any advice.
  6. One time I found a diverter hydraulic valve that was used to stop a cylinders advance by diverting the flow from the pressure side to the return side of the cylinder. useful as a hydraulic "stop" . They were made in England but i cant find them anywhere now. Anybody know what i am talking about? Where to locate one? Ben
  7. Hi, my friends. There is my self made machines for my blacksmith workshop.
  8. Hi. I have been thinking of a hydraulic press and am wondering what would be a good size. I would like to do drawing out, punching, drifing etc of bars up to 1.5". There is a 24, 34 or 50 ton available from Tommy McNabb. I'm considering the 34 ton version but i dont want to be frustrated and wish I bought the 50. Any thoughts and recommendstions? Also - what are the operations you use your press for the most? (besides damascus) Thank you!
  9. I recently picked up a manley press. I believe it was originally a H press but somewhere down the line it was converted to a side by side set up with arbor press and mounted on a pedestal. The pressure gauge seems original to the press and its 0-30 tons psi. The number on the tag which i think is the model number reads 3-44 , i dont have the serial on hand at the moment but i do know it ends with a B if that is any help at all. So that said i have some questions about this press that i hope you guys can help me with. Is there a way to convert the from manual to powered or air fairly simply or is it worth the effort? What type of forging applications would this best be suited for, and what should i avoid asking of this press? Should i not even use it due to the conversion from the original design?...though it seems done well and i removed most of the paint and all the dirt and hyd fluid looking for cracks etc i also know a weld can hide a multitude of sin. Would the tooling design ive seen on the site apply to this style of press?
  10. This followed my Dad to his work, for now. Once we have our shop set up, it will move there.
  11. Hi guys and I'm sure a few Lady's, I am at the very BEGINNING, of the process, of building a Hydraulic Forging Press. As with most everyone money is tight, because of that, and the realization that I do enjoy and get satisfaction out of building my own equipment, I decided to build my own Hydraulic Forging Press. I have decided on the vertical set-up, using an I beam as the foundation, the cylinder is attached to the top of it with the clevis pins, then there is a shorter I beam that is welded directly in front of the main beam, where the bottom dies are attached. I'm not sure if anyone has seen this type of configuration for a forging press, the problems I'm having are which parts should be purchased first, I'm a bit apprehensive about buying any certain part and then getting cornered into having to use specific parts that I may not want, or find a great deal on another part and find that the 2 aren't compatible. I'm starting to think I may be over thinking this, or worrying too much about losing a few dollars. I do understand that i will have to spend some money to build this, I am not niave to the fact that this stuff is not cheap, but I also know that with a little bit of determination, armed with knowledge and a little help from anyone I can get it from can go a long ways to keep what little money I do have and still be able to build a quality machine. So I'll ask my question like this. Are there parts that are more important to buy first? What experiences have any of you guys had with cylinder strength? The formula I found uses the bore and rod sizes, it's actually a calculator I found on Surplus Center's website. So far, what I understand is that the rod size needs to be a minimum of 2 inches (in order to get the amount of strength I want), I am trying to save up for a cylinder that has, at the least a 4 inch bore, 5 would be much better, but I haven't found any with a 5in bore that were affordable. I don't have all of my notes with me, but I have a fair understanding of what I want to do and I hope that maybe someone here might be able to shed a little more light on this subject. I do want it to have around 20 tons of mashing power. I would settle for a little less, like somewhere between 15 and 18 tons, but I don't want to go any less. I have found the cylinder for this, which would cost less than $200 at Surplus Center, I can't remember if it is a 2500 psi or 3000psi, which brings up another question, which one is best? 2500 or 3000? And, If I have a 3000psi pump and get a 2500 psi cylinder, will that work together? Here's another question I was wondering about, do ALL the parts have to be rated or "related" (to or) for each other? I'm not sure if I'm asking that question the right way. I've seen so many parts, and pieces that go to this build, 1 being the valve. I have heard that a regular Log Splitter valve will work, but I don't know what the correct terminology is, for that type of valve. I would like to be able to have all the correct names/terminology so that I can shop for the items I need, again to be able to save money. I know I will have to spend money to build this thing, and I don't have unrealistic expectations, I just want to find the best, most economical way to do it, and when I get done, I plan on having a list of all the parts and where to get them, where I found the best deals, where maybe someone else can benefit from what I learned and be able to build one as well, Thanks for any and all help I can get from you guys, I appreciate the fact that so many of you will stop what you're doing in your busy day to help out us Newbs, to the world of HOT STEEL! Thanks Again, Rex